You all receive the video walk around many dealers now do during your physical? When I picked up my second fob for the new RX, I received that as well and with 2,000 miles on the ODO, they assured me my tire tread and brake pads were still in good shape😉

 

Dealer said after 2200 miles my front pads = 11 mm, Rear = 9 mm, I'm surprised the rears wore quicker

 

I hear what you are saying and don't agree or disagree. However, it's hard to imagine that there could be enough machining debris left behind to clog an oil filter.

One would assume there are routine quality checks for machining debris. How did so many grenades get through QC? There might be more to this than Toyota is telling the public.

 

I'm switching motor oil & filter with the next oil & filter change in August. This will be the fourth oil & filter change since April 2023 when I bought the ES300h. I am switching to Idemitsu IFG 5 motor oil, which is manufactured by a Japanese refiner for Japanese vehicles, and to a Highflow Performance - 2023 Lexus ES300h Oil Filter PG4476EX. My Independent Lexus trained and the owner of his service shop recommended Idemitsu motor oil. I tried to find the hybrid-specific Idemitsu IFG 7 motor oil; however, it is not available in the United States that I can find. If anyone knows where I can obtain/order it in the United States, please reply.

 

Just saw this on BITOG. I was told something similar by a friendly Honda advisor years ago about a customer which they declined warranty. It's amazing! It gives an idea of a very neglected OCI.

 

Sludge is gross! As a contrast to the vehicle in this YT video: I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 2001 Tundra last year with 115K miles, and the valve train looked like new! My Tundra had 5K oil changes with premium oil and filters its whole life, and I don't start it without bringing it to operating temperature before parking it.

 

The owner of that vehicle is an idiot or doesn't give a damn. Change your oil & filter either at six months or 5,000 miles, whichever occurs first, PERIOD! Oil & filters are cheap, but engines are expensive... watch Scotty Kilmer and The Car Care Nut on YouTube.

 

As noted in my post above, my initial oil change at 500 miles showed fine glitter in the drained oil and it smelled of fuel. For that change, I went with 0W-16 Mobil 1 with K&N filter. One month later, today, I did a second change at 1,500 miles. I was surprised to still see fine glitter in the drained oil, but perhaps there was a little less than in the initial "break-in" oil. Too, the drained oil still smelled strongly of gasoline.

I replaced the oil this time with 0W-20 Valvoline Restore and Protect and used a Purolator Boss filter, PBL14477, which is substantially longer than the OEM filter. Since I'm still not pleased with the glitter and fuel dilution, I'll change the oil again at 3,000 miles to see if there is any improvement.

Question: I'm in the habit of starting the engine after an oil change to check for leaks before driving the vehicle. However, when one attempts to start an ES 300h, it usually doesn't actually start the ICE. Is there a manual override for starting the ICE? I glanced in the owners manual and didn't see anything, but there must be a work-around for mechanics needing to start the engine without waiting for the traction battery to loose charge, which in turn prompts the ICE to start (ultimately what I had to do).

 

You need to press the throttle pedal and the engine will turn on.

 

Thanks ESh...your suggestion will work in some situations, and I appreciate the direction. However, when I wanted to turn on the engine yesterday to check for leaks (and prime the oil system), I had the front of the vehicle up on jackstands, with the bottom cover removed. Will pressing the throttle while the ES is in park start the engine? No need to respond, I'll test it out next time I drive it. If pressing the throttle while in park doesn't start the engine, I'll still be in the market for a hack!

 

Yes, while in Park, if with READY on, if you press the pedal, the engine will start and it will rev at around 1500. You can floor it, it will increase revs to 2000.
It will not work on combustion (no gasoline will be injected), MG1 spins the engine.

 

All very interesting! Can't wait to test this out. Thanks again for the direction ESh!

 

Yep, the 5k service is a chance for the dealership to sell you something or find something that might need service. Mine tried to sell me a 4-wheel alignment service because I had slightly hit a curb on one wheel. I said no and would monitor it myself. It was a pure waste of time IMO.

I had my second oil & filter service performed by my Independent (Lexus trained) mechanic about a month after the 5k Lexus service, now that was worth it.

 

Update: Did the free oil change 12mo/10k OCI on Aug. 28, 2024; although the car only had 4,751mi on 1yr ownership at the time. What I have found interesting is the amount of wear-in metals accounted for (if I hadn't changed 3 times) at half the normally recommended 10k OCI. BSL did noted some fuel dilution this time around.

My next OCI (18mo / 15k) is around Feb. 20, 2025; but with only 5,972mi (1,221mi on oil) I'll probably skip changing the oil this time and do it on the next 24mo/20k service. I still expect to have less than 10k by that time.




@LexFinally posted something, in a recent similar thread, that I think is very relevant to the 12mo/10k topic. Specially the last sentence.

 

People go overboard about this topic (oil change interval) on every car forum you go to. It really is not that complicated. There is so much BS out there about the “new oils” lasting longer. Simple fact is folks is that every vehicle is going to have a certain amount of combustion by-products, including small amounts of raw fuel, that will work there way past the engine cylinder piston rings. This is a fact of life with all ICE engines. What oil you use is not going to change this. The problem is this “blow-by” in your engine crank case breaks down oil viscosity and diminishes the effectiveness of detergents used within the oil. I would strongly suggest you give yourself some peace of mind and spend a few extra dollars maintaining your vehicle and get your oil changed every 5,000 miles. Anyone that tells you can change your oil at 10,000 mile intervals doesn’t kniw what they are talking about. You want your engine to last 200, 300, 400+ thousand miles?….change your oil every 5,000 miles. This comes from 50+ years of experience maintaining and repairing engine. I am a retired mechanical engineer with 40 years of professional experience. I have never owned an engine that has not lasted at least 300,000 miles.