Initial Oil Change
Any great 0W16 "full" synthetic oil, even Amazon Full Synthetic. LOL I use Liqui Moly 0W16 Special Tec AA or if you can find it - Liqui Moly Molygen New Generation SAE 0W16.
Oil Filter - Toyota OEM #90915-YZZN1
Washer - Aluminum or copper, compression washer the best.
Oil Filter - Toyota OEM #90915-YZZN1
Washer - Aluminum or copper, compression washer the best.
My first oil change was at 10000 miles and second at 20000 miles, it hasn't blown up yet. If you are worried at 1,100 miles what happens if you smell gas in the oil again at 2,200 miles?
The slight fuel smell is not concerning it's normal if you've been doing city driving. Go take it on a 30-45 min drive on the highway and that fuel will be burnt off.
The slight fuel smell is not concerning it's normal if you've been doing city driving. Go take it on a 30-45 min drive on the highway and that fuel will be burnt off.
Do you know if the first installed filter is the same 90915-YZZN1 or the case for changing the cartridge/o-rings inside? Anyway, I'll try to jack up during the weekend to confirm.
Buy your filters at the dealership. You’ll know you’re getting the right one, and won’t be counterfeit.
After that, I'll just adhere to the manufacturer severe driving condition OCI of 5000 miles or 6 months based on my driving characteristics.
I'm sure you have decided by now but just in case someone else is curious.
If the car was always serviced at the dealership than they are lying to you didn't even bother looking into it. I just bought a new 2024 ES350 11/30/2023. I asked if the break in oil change was included in the 1st year free maintenance. Answer NO! They gave all kind of well bla bla bla. So my guess is it wasn't. However that does not mean it's a good or bad car. The oil and filter may have been changed yet the person driving it the 1st 1000 miles may have beat the carp out of it. Just no telling.
For those wondering if you should change oil and filter between 750 and 1000 miles. The answer is yes. Most mechanics recommend it and it's good insurance for little money vs the cost of a new engine at some point down the road.
If the car was always serviced at the dealership than they are lying to you didn't even bother looking into it. I just bought a new 2024 ES350 11/30/2023. I asked if the break in oil change was included in the 1st year free maintenance. Answer NO! They gave all kind of well bla bla bla. So my guess is it wasn't. However that does not mean it's a good or bad car. The oil and filter may have been changed yet the person driving it the 1st 1000 miles may have beat the carp out of it. Just no telling.
For those wondering if you should change oil and filter between 750 and 1000 miles. The answer is yes. Most mechanics recommend it and it's good insurance for little money vs the cost of a new engine at some point down the road.
I just completed my first oil change in my 2024 ES 300h. Here are some of my impressions:
1. Like a poster above, I noticed the smell of gas coming from the draining oil. Yikes! Is this due to dilution caused by direct injection? If so, this is another reason to do 5,000K changes vs 10,000K. Hopefully, the dilution diminishes as the pistons/rings/cylinders "wear-in."
2. I noticed very fine glitter in the drained oil when viewing it in the sunlight (confirmed my instinct to do an initial change at 500 miles)!
3. After watching a YouTube video testing an OEM Toyota filter and pitting it against premium filters, I went with a K&N filter rather than OEM. The Toyota filter had some good results for filtering capacity and low flow restriction, but it was horrible at filtering out the finer particulates (thus the glitter). It is less restrictive, so, had better flow. Filtering fine particulates seems more important.
4. Watched another video on changing the oil in 2024 ES 300h and saw the tech was using a Toyota OEM #90915-YZZF1 filter vs the specified #90915-YZZN1. The F1 appears to be about twice as long as the N1. I'm thinking of switching to the longer filter for the change after the 10K mile/1-year service that Lexus does for free. Of course, I would source the longer filter from K&N or one of the other premium filters that tested well, like Amsoil, Mobil 1, Wix XP, or Fram Ultra Synthetic. I'll likely go with an OEM, N1 filter at 5K miles so Lexus can't cancel my warranty for using the wrong parts! If the 10K tech noticed a F1 in place of a N1 upon removal, would he/she even make note of it in the documentation?
5. I love that the 2024 has the spin-on vs the cartridge. Anyone know when Lexus converted this model to a spin-on type? I figure it was recent because when one searches online for a filter for this gen ES 300h, one finds both types of filters.
Generally, I was pleased with the ease of changing the oil in the 2024 ES 300h. The only thing that caught my eye under the hood was the pink coolant remnants that spotted the engine bay, near the coolant reservoirs. I'm assuming the reservoirs were overfilled at the factory, and it escaped through the overflow ports. In my 2011 ES 350, Lexus used a hose to direct the overflow to down under the engine bay. Why didn't they do the same here?
1. Like a poster above, I noticed the smell of gas coming from the draining oil. Yikes! Is this due to dilution caused by direct injection? If so, this is another reason to do 5,000K changes vs 10,000K. Hopefully, the dilution diminishes as the pistons/rings/cylinders "wear-in."
2. I noticed very fine glitter in the drained oil when viewing it in the sunlight (confirmed my instinct to do an initial change at 500 miles)!
3. After watching a YouTube video testing an OEM Toyota filter and pitting it against premium filters, I went with a K&N filter rather than OEM. The Toyota filter had some good results for filtering capacity and low flow restriction, but it was horrible at filtering out the finer particulates (thus the glitter). It is less restrictive, so, had better flow. Filtering fine particulates seems more important.
4. Watched another video on changing the oil in 2024 ES 300h and saw the tech was using a Toyota OEM #90915-YZZF1 filter vs the specified #90915-YZZN1. The F1 appears to be about twice as long as the N1. I'm thinking of switching to the longer filter for the change after the 10K mile/1-year service that Lexus does for free. Of course, I would source the longer filter from K&N or one of the other premium filters that tested well, like Amsoil, Mobil 1, Wix XP, or Fram Ultra Synthetic. I'll likely go with an OEM, N1 filter at 5K miles so Lexus can't cancel my warranty for using the wrong parts! If the 10K tech noticed a F1 in place of a N1 upon removal, would he/she even make note of it in the documentation?
5. I love that the 2024 has the spin-on vs the cartridge. Anyone know when Lexus converted this model to a spin-on type? I figure it was recent because when one searches online for a filter for this gen ES 300h, one finds both types of filters.
Generally, I was pleased with the ease of changing the oil in the 2024 ES 300h. The only thing that caught my eye under the hood was the pink coolant remnants that spotted the engine bay, near the coolant reservoirs. I'm assuming the reservoirs were overfilled at the factory, and it escaped through the overflow ports. In my 2011 ES 350, Lexus used a hose to direct the overflow to down under the engine bay. Why didn't they do the same here?
1. Like a poster above, I noticed the smell of gas coming from the draining oil. Yikes! Is this due to dilution caused by direct injection? If so, this is another reason to do 5,000K changes vs 10,000K. Hopefully, the dilution diminishes as the pistons/rings/cylinders "wear-in."
I did my first oil change @ 1,300 miles and a second @ 2,694 miles (~1,300 additional miles).. There was definitely a substantial reduction (50%+) in wear-in metals between the 1st and 2nd basically using the same oil miles interval.











