Window wont roll down
Bought a 00 lexus es300.. about got everything fixed. One issue im really stumped on… my passenger window wont roll down🤣🤣 Now, at first i was like “switch or regulator… then the seller says “the key will roll it down”. There were other switches in the car and i tried them but no luck. My question is, could it be the controls on the driver side stopping it from working? I can operate every window but the passenger front… thanks in advance
Last edited by jhodges818; Jun 21, 2021 at 12:49 PM.
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Hello,
Have you tried lowering the window with the key and then closing it back up with a switch?
The way this car controls the windows when you use a key in the door lock is a little convoluted - when you turn the key, the signal from the switch on that lock goes to the Integration Relay, then they ran two separate wires from it to Window Regulators, which are the signal that tells which way to go. The rest of the setup is completely separate and runs to the Regulator with its own wires, so it is still possible that the Wire Loom running from the door to the car got damaged in some way, so that the window stopped responding to switches. Take the door panel and the rubber boot off and inspect all the wires, see if any are damaged.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Have you tried lowering the window with the key and then closing it back up with a switch?
The way this car controls the windows when you use a key in the door lock is a little convoluted - when you turn the key, the signal from the switch on that lock goes to the Integration Relay, then they ran two separate wires from it to Window Regulators, which are the signal that tells which way to go. The rest of the setup is completely separate and runs to the Regulator with its own wires, so it is still possible that the Wire Loom running from the door to the car got damaged in some way, so that the window stopped responding to switches. Take the door panel and the rubber boot off and inspect all the wires, see if any are damaged.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Hello,
Have you tried lowering the window with the key and then closing it back up with a switch?
The way this car controls the windows when you use a key in the door lock is a little convoluted - when you turn the key, the signal from the switch on that lock goes to the Integration Relay, then they ran two separate wires from it to Window Regulators, which are the signal that tells which way to go. The rest of the setup is completely separate and runs to the Regulator with its own wires, so it is still possible that the Wire Loom running from the door to the car got damaged in some way, so that the window stopped responding to switches. Take the door panel and the rubber boot off and inspect all the wires, see if any are damaged.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Have you tried lowering the window with the key and then closing it back up with a switch?
The way this car controls the windows when you use a key in the door lock is a little convoluted - when you turn the key, the signal from the switch on that lock goes to the Integration Relay, then they ran two separate wires from it to Window Regulators, which are the signal that tells which way to go. The rest of the setup is completely separate and runs to the Regulator with its own wires, so it is still possible that the Wire Loom running from the door to the car got damaged in some way, so that the window stopped responding to switches. Take the door panel and the rubber boot off and inspect all the wires, see if any are damaged.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
i looked through all the wiring, nothing looks bad. I dont have a voltage meter but will pick one up tomorrow while im at Honda Toyota Heaven, getting a master control and a control for passenger side. Any idea what i should set the meter to and what readout im looking for?
I would rather suggest using a Test Light for this one. On the Window Regulator, you should see Green-White (Window Up) and Red-Blue (Window Down) wires, when you press the switch up or down, you should have the 12V signal on the respective wires when the Ignition is in the ON position. You should also check that you have 12V on the Blue and Yellow wires when the Ignition is on. And lastly, just in case, check that Black-White wire has a good Ground.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Sorry for the delay..
I would rather suggest using a Test Light for this one. On the Window Regulator, you should see Green-White (Window Up) and Red-Blue (Window Down) wires, when you press the switch up or down, you should have the 12V signal on the respective wires when the Ignition is in the ON position. You should also check that you have 12V on the Blue and Yellow wires when the Ignition is on. And lastly, just in case, check that Black-White wire has a good Ground.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
I would rather suggest using a Test Light for this one. On the Window Regulator, you should see Green-White (Window Up) and Red-Blue (Window Down) wires, when you press the switch up or down, you should have the 12V signal on the respective wires when the Ignition is in the ON position. You should also check that you have 12V on the Blue and Yellow wires when the Ignition is on. And lastly, just in case, check that Black-White wire has a good Ground.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Sorry for the delay..
I would rather suggest using a Test Light for this one. On the Window Regulator, you should see Green-White (Window Up) and Red-Blue (Window Down) wires, when you press the switch up or down, you should have the 12V signal on the respective wires when the Ignition is in the ON position. You should also check that you have 12V on the Blue and Yellow wires when the Ignition is on. And lastly, just in case, check that Black-White wire has a good Ground.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
I would rather suggest using a Test Light for this one. On the Window Regulator, you should see Green-White (Window Up) and Red-Blue (Window Down) wires, when you press the switch up or down, you should have the 12V signal on the respective wires when the Ignition is in the ON position. You should also check that you have 12V on the Blue and Yellow wires when the Ignition is on. And lastly, just in case, check that Black-White wire has a good Ground.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
i did just notice this difference 😒
The switch on the picture is definitely not for this car, what was it taken off of?
What do you mean by losing individual controls, do windows still operate from the Master (Driver's) Switch?
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Last edited by Arsenii; Jun 25, 2021 at 06:16 PM.
By the "Window Regulator" I am referring to the actual Motor unit that moves your window up and down when you press the switch, which is located under the Door Panel. From the photos you shared, can't help but wonder what happened to all those switches in the first place? The question is whether it has something to do with why your window doesn't operate as expected..
The switch on the picture is definitely not for this car, what was it taken off of?
Check 30A POWER, 25A DOOR and 10A GAUGE fuses, here is a diagram.
What do you mean by losing individual controls, do windows still operate from the Master (Driver's) Switch?
Hope this helps and best of luck!
The switch on the picture is definitely not for this car, what was it taken off of?
Check 30A POWER, 25A DOOR and 10A GAUGE fuses, here is a diagram.
What do you mean by losing individual controls, do windows still operate from the Master (Driver's) Switch?
Hope this helps and best of luck!
If you were to disconnect the Master Switch or use an incompatible one, none of the windows would work, since you would essentially break the Ground supply, which appears to be the problem in your case.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Last edited by Arsenii; Jun 25, 2021 at 09:02 PM.







