Having some problems on my 1999 es300. The car would vibrate bad at idle and when i shift the gear into drive. But when i shift it into any other gear the car doesnt vibrate at all. Also i do not know if this might be the problem but on the dashboard has BRAKE light signal is on. I have search and found that either it might be the e brake, but my e brake are off, could this just be a miscue, until i set it off? And how can solve this vibration problem?

Update: As i said before its not just the driving gear that vibrates, its acutally everyone with driving being the worst, but when on neutral its steady but vibrates just a bit, i took the car around the block to see if it had to do with acceleration problem, but that didnt solve anything. But what i did realize while driving when coming to a complete stop the car would have a problem with braking. The pedal acts like its skipping a beat when pressing down on it causing the to still stop but not fully until it starts to gauge twice on something, than it would stops completely. I have read around that this problem is not that serious, due to the fact that it might be a low on brake fluid, bad cylinder, or i bleed to the brake fluid because air had gotten into it. Simple matter on which it shouldn't be worry about. But what my most concern is right now is why the car vibrating? It seems really odd to me, i basically have a new set of suspension on the front end. Everything was put in the same way it was tooken out. And it brings me back to when i first started doing the supsension that there the vibration case was unknown.. any feed back would be great!

 

Check the engine mounts.

Any codes from the OBD?

 

I dont have obd to use, but how do i go about from checking this engine mount?

 

One engine mount in the front center that is hydraulic, one in the rear center that is rubber, and the third is top of engine on the passenger side attaching the engine to the inner fender. The third one is easiest to check. It is a rod with circles at each end. Look closely in the center section of the circles at the rubber for tears, or detachment from the metal circle, as it should be bonded.
Drive to a parking lot with no cars in front of you and set the parking brake. Lift the hood, and while you stand to the side of the vehicle, watch the engine as someone holding the brake shifts to drive and slightly revs engine. Then have them shift to reverse, and while holding the brake, slightly rev the engine. If the mounts are bad, you will see the engine twist forward and backward excessively. The front to back engine movement is expected, just not excessively!

 

Thank you for the input, i have checked out the the engine mounts and I couldnt really tell a different to see if there is anything bad with it. So i have taken pictures, maybe you can determine it from there. I also checked around see that some people have made videos on their engine mount to also get a clearer description. I have the links to both the photo and video below, let me know what you think!

Link to Photos:

http://imageshack.us/f/62/20130317110927.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/f/822/20130317110948.jpg/

Link to Video:


From start to finish, I put it in Park, than Reverse for 5 sec, than Neutral for 5 sec, than Park for 5 sec, put it back in park, than rev it on Reveres for about 1200-1500 rpm, than neutral for 5 sec, than rev on Park for 1200-1500, and as you can see while revving on drive, the engine moved forward, I think the brakes are bad..but that is essentially how the videos is.

 

This one is definitely damaged and should be replaced. Look at the rips in the rubber. You should check the brake fluid, and maybe replace the fluid as it absorbs water over time.
http://imageshack.us/f/62/20130317110927.jpg/

 

Okay i will replace that, there are 4 motor mounts correct? You have the torque mount, engine mount, transmission mount, and the rear mount right? Where exactly is the rear mount located? Its the one between the drive shaft is it?

 

The front has a conventional engine mount and a shock absorbing mount. The rear mount is a rubber insulator in a casting with a through bolt, and can be looked at from under the vehicle at the back, bottom, center (roughly) of the engine. No transmission mount though. Front shock absorber is removed by taking out bottom horizontal through bolt, and then removing the top nut and bushing. Both bolt and nut torque to 35 ft/lb. The torque mount (passenger side top, engine movement control rod) is fairly easy to replace in 20 minutes with a metric ratchet set and a torque wrench set to 47 ft/lb, but the other mounts need the engine to be supported with an engine crane. Not easy in my understanding.