Tigress

The lights went on then off ..for months. Now they are back on. The auto zone codes are c 1201. C0246.c0236.c0226.c1223.
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The last time I was told the traction control module needed to be replaced costing over 1500..i still don't have the money. The alternator needs to be replaced as well. .any advice?

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

What year is your Lexus ES? I've never seen codes like that, so I'm not sure how they got them.

Replace the alternator and recheck. I was in a similar situation and replacing the alternator was the only fix. My guess is that the bad alternator was having a poor voltage output, which made the ABS ECU think that something was wrong.

PuReChaos

Honestly, I would replace the alternator first. Though I don't think its causing the codes to be thrown. My guess is instead of the expensive traction control ecu, its more than likely the ABS module (actuator), though I'm surprised that C0256 didn't come up. So either 3 of the 4 actuators are malfunctioning or the whole module is starting to give out, though i'll admit these are pretty reliable and generally last the life of the car. There are ways to test this before buying and replacing, however, it sounds like you need to take your car to a technician to do a diagnostic.

Car is running normally though I assume? The only thing these codes really effect is traction control/ABS. Your brakes will function normally though are now prone to locking up. Is the only reason your bringing this up because the light came on or are you noticing a difference when driving?

dave1959

Before doing anything... I would clear the codes and drive it until the light comes back on then check it. But remember ...codes only tell you where to look or what to test. They rarely give you a hard failure.

Tigress

Ok..the first time just the traction control light came on...it's been about a year...and I had Toyota check it too. Then it went out so I put it on the back burner. I had trouble with the positive terminal cruding up and the last few weeks being slow to start. I got a new battery Wednesday. I noticed a whining that even a coworker mentioned yesterday. So that's when I went back to auto zone. They checked the alternator which came up with a it's own failing whatever. On my way over to autozone is when both lights came on. ( check engine and traction) they also found a faulty coolant thermostat. I haven't checked that out today. I had the oil changed and kwik car usually checks other fluids. Otherwise the car is running fine.



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CARspec

Replace the alternator and inspect the battery. I really doubt your ABS/TRAC module needs replacement - you likely have a moderately failing alternator and/or battery.

I had one of these a few years back, early 2000s ES300, same issue - the alternator was failing just enough to cause voltage dips while the car was under load (lights on and sudden ABS activation).

The enabling criteria for more of your codes is "When solenoid relay is ON and IG1 terminal voltage is 9.5-18V, solenoid circuit is open or short for .05 sec or longer". If you have a blip of low voltage the computer interprets it as a failure. Because you have so many solenoid codes, I suspect an external source of the problem vs. all of them failing at the same time.

You aren't getting a C1241 "Low battery postive voltage" as the enabling criteria is "Terminal IG voltge is 9.5v or less which continues for 10 sec. or more" - your alternator is holding the voltage above 9.5 volts most of the time.

Tigress

I was about 90% sure it was the alternator. ..but knew the battery needed replacement so I did that first. So now I feel better about replacing the alternator.
Would the alternator failing cause a high pitched whining sound? I noticed it got worse with the new battery and when it first starts.



QUOTE=CARspec;8779017]Replace the alternator and inspect the battery. I really doubt your ABS/TRAC module needs replacement - you likely have a moderately failing alternator and/or battery.

I had one of these a few years back, early 2000s ES300, same issue - the alternator was failing just enough to cause voltage dips while the car was under load (lights on and sudden ABS activation).

The enabling criteria for more of your codes is "When solenoid relay is ON and IG1 terminal voltage is 9.5-18V, solenoid circuit is open or short for .05 sec or longer". If you have a blip of low voltage the computer interprets it as a failure. Because you have so many solenoid codes, I suspect an external source of the problem vs. all of them failing at the same time.

You aren't getting a C1241 "Low battery postive voltage" as the enabling criteria is "Terminal IG voltge is 9.5v or less which continues for 10 sec. or more" - your alternator is holding the voltage above 9.5 volts most of the time.[/QUOTE]

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Yes a high pitched whine will often come from a bad alternator and/or accessory belt.

Tigress

Okay. Is there a better brand to buy?

OceanView

Any updates?
Did a new alternator fix this issues with the traction light?