Ok so I rebuilt my 2JZ-GE with race internals except crank and head I have put in King Race Bearings for connecting rod and main bearings. I put Manley Connecting Rods held by ARP2000 bolts, Corillo SC7472 Forged Pistons 86.5MM (180PSI Compression) and a thicker gasket. I have so many questions

How much power could the stock head handle before saying goodbye for world it was made for?

What turbo kits are good vs. not good? I will only put a dual bearing turbo inside.

Can I pass emissions while upgrading my car so I can continue my insurance and registration?

Is there and aftermarket bumpers for the front if I need more space for Intercooler?

Will the single intake from the aftermarket 2JZ-GTE work on the 2JZ-GE?

How different is the head from the 2JZ-GTE and the 2JZ-GE?

Please also note that the motor still has OEM Head Bolts, I want to make this thing have power but at the same time make it where I have a 93 Octane tune for pump gas. I would say E85 but the closest gas station that has it is at least 25 miles out (55 minutes away). I just need some info, if anyone knows anything about the 2JZ series and can answer any of my questions would much appreciated.

 

The wrist pins are also free floater.

 

Supraforums is that way ---->

 

Nice build!

I don't have a concrete answer for you but I can tell you that some Supra/SC people go for VERY high numbers in the high triple digits or even four digit range. At least one person on this very forum with several high powered SC's, is currently building a stroker 2JZ-GTE with a 1500whp target output number. The cylinder head will take it but you will need to go with a fully upgraded aftermarket valvetrain... and aftermarket cams of course.

Unless you're building for that level of power and have the money to do it then there's little to worry about with the strength of a 2JZ-GTE or 2JZ-GE cylinder head.

This is a huge topic and is better discussed in a different thread. But in the U.S. BorgWarner and especially Precision turbos are liked a lot. In Japan it might be HKS or Tomei turbos. It really totally depends on the intended use of the car when deciding which aftermarket component is best for your own build.

This is a very difficult question to answer and it varies state by state. Since I know you're referring to the engine and not the chassis with this question: In Georgia? I'm not very familiar with the GA state or county emissions requirements but I know you do have them to contend with.

I have no idea what model vehicle you have. You didn't say in the first post. If you have an SC300/400, GS300/400, or IS300 (1st gen) then yes, there are aftermarket bumpers available for all of them. Front mount intercoolers are common with SC300/400 NA-T builds or 1JZ/2JZ-GTE swap builds. Some front mount intercoolers will fit under the stock bumpers while some very large and thick ones won't.

It very much depends on what car you are working with.

Both the 2JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GE use "single" intake manifolds and a single throttle body.

If you mean to ask if you can bolt a 2JZ-GTE intake manifold onto a 2JZ-GE cylinder head then that's a NO. The intake ports are shaped differently on both heads. However there are a plethora of aftermarket forward-facing "GTE-like" intake manifolds that you can bolt onto a 2JZ-GE cylinder head.

There are several differences.

2JZ-GTE heads are all coil-on-plug distributor-less. Both Non-VVT-i and VVT-i types. The exhaust GTE exhaust cams therefore lack the gear drive for a distributor that a 1992-1997 GE Non-VVT-i head uses. Intake and exhaust cam profiles are different as well including by world market (GTE USDM/UK/EURO and GTE JDM vs GE USDM and GE JDM... etc.)

When building a turbo 2JZ-GE (NA-T) the stock NA cams are fine for turbocharged power until you reach such a point that you need to actually consider a more aggressive aftermarket cam profiles. This will be the same effectively for a GTE and GE head well into the 500whp range even though there are some flow differences between the two.

1998-2005 2JZ-GE VVT-i heads are all distributor-less and coil-on-plug ignition. The cams in these are also good for a lot of turbo horsepower until you may consider changing them for more aggressive profiles.

1992-1997 GE Non-VVT-i heads can be converted to coil-on-plug (very common) and the distributor can be "deleted" with a flat cap on top so that you JUST keep using the cam sensor signal that it produces. You may also consider installing a 1996+ 2JZ-GE & GE VVT-i oil pump so as to benefit from installing a factory crank sensor. You will also need the correct crank gear for the application as well to make the sensor trigger system work.

Both 2JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GE heads (non-vvt and vvt) are very strong and can be built for high horsepower.

There is a years'-long debate about which type of head flows better. Ultimately it will be the GTE that is the winner at the very highest limits but both designs are SO well made and overbuilt that you will have no trouble getting high power out of either the GTE or GE head design.

I would recommend upgrading to ARP 2JZ head studs with OEM head bolt washers. Use a good calibrated torque wrench (such as a CDI) to give them the required 80 ft lbs of torque. Or for stupid high power builds you may want to consult with others and builders about a slightly higher uniform torque number... but for most 2JZ builds ARP's recommendations are sufficient.

Use an OEM 2JZ-GTE Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket to drop your standard 2JZ-GE compression to about 9.2:1. I'm not sure what compression your aftermarket pistons bring this to but OEM 2JZ-GE Non-VVT-i pistons + an OEM 2JZ-GTE head gasket = 9.2:1

E85 is a popular 105-ish octane street fuel. But if you're going to use it you need to upgrade the whole fuel system to handle it. And you'll need sensors and an aftermarket ECU that is FlexFuel capable so that you can fill up with 93 Premium when you need to but also fill with E85 when you have the opportunity to. Your aftermarket ECU will determine the exact percentage of ethanol in the fuel tank and can adjust the tune accordingly.

Needless to say the programming for all that is something that you've got to do between you and your ECU tuning specialist.

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*Ahem*

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...n-1992-2000-6/

We also have lots of high power 2JZ turbo builds documented and questions fielded right in the ClubLexus.

OP, I am going to recommend that you repost the questions not sufficiently answered here in the SC300/400 Sub-Forum in "Performance and Maintenance" or just start a new thread there. Many very knowledgeable people well versed in 2JZ NA-T builds can help and answer more of your questions.

But also I am only assuming that you have an SC300. We still have no idea what car you're working with but even so we'll be happy to talk to you about the engine build side of your project at the very least.

 

Use an OEM 2JZ-GTE Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket to drop your standard 2JZ-GE compression to about 9.2:1. I'm not sure what compression your aftermarket pistons bring this to but OEM 2JZ-GE Non-VVT-i pistons + an OEM 2JZ-GTE head gasket = 9.2:1]

Thanks for all the answers, you answered allot of my questions. I got so far 180 PSI Compression with what I got right not. So far I think that the intake is making the motor have less power because the begining is not super fast but faster then top end. I have a crank shaft/ cam shaft position sensor code popping up and won't go away. I don't have an OEM sensor however the motor runs once in a while it messes up. The timing is fine as well.

 

Since you've already got the long block all bolted together at this point I wouldn't open it up again unless there is some glaring reason to. Hopefully you used the stronger ARP head studs for your build and with all the money invested in those upgraded internals you're sure to have used either the OEM 2JZ-GTE or an aftermarket thicker multi-layer-steel head gasket, correct?

The specs of the forged one-size-overbore pistons and the head gasket you used will allow you to calculate exactly what compression ratio you have ended up with. A 100% stock 2JZ-GTE (Non-VVTi and VVT-i) has 8.5:1 compression by means of the reliefs in its factory pistons and factory head gaskets. Today for many aftermarket builds with modern aftermarket ECU tuning it is common to see higher compression ratios. And of course the common 2JZ-GE stock block + 2JZGTE MLS head gasket combo giving 9.2:1 compression.

It sounds like you've done your homework with that build and 180 PSI in all six cylinders is excellent

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The crankshaft, btw, does not need to be upgraded. It is an extremely strong forged steel part capable of handling massive power. 3.2L and 3.4L stroker kits are available but they are big bucks and are not needed to achieve the majority of horsepower number and power range goals.

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If you are currently using the stock 2JZ-GE Non-VVT-i intake (or a 2JZ-GE VVT-i head and stock intake) then I can't offer a lot of insight into that with my lack of expertise in that area (try fielding this question to Ali SC3 in the SC300/400 Performance and Maintanenace sub-forum in his big NA-T thread). However I do know that the way those intakes are designed from the factory is to emphasize low end power and then use their ACIS (Acoustic Controlled Intake System) butterfly valves to open up later to allow for good top end flow.

So a long shot guess is that perhaps you have your ACIS butterfly system disabled in the open position? Or something not working as it should in that regard is only allowing for great top end flow. Usually with NA-T 2JZ-GE builds the very shape of the intake manifold itself is what allows for good low end torque without issues on the top end. I'm just not well versed enough in your specific issue to be sure that the intake manifold is your problem.

Also, since you appear to already have a turbo installed and have the engine up and running the next logical question would be how big your turbocharger is and what type you are using. There is such a wide variety of options and they all respond differently. Usually a 58mm-62mm turbo that is very modern exhibits a good sweet spot between low end response and high end power on a 2JZ turbo engine.

There is also the Quick Spool Valve (QSV) option which I've seen on a few NA-T cars. They require a compatible turbo but they are an excellent way to boost low end response and allow for mid-to-high RPM response once the valve fully opens up.

Also VVT-i cylinder heads can help with low end response as well since they're not shunned on the tuning side any longer.

A really great combination for all around response is a 2JZ-GE VVT-i cylinder head with either a Non-VVT-i 92-97 stock bottom end or fully upgraded bottom end internals... plus an OEM 2JZ-GTE head gasket, plus ARP head studs, plus a Treadstone exhaust manifold, plus a good 62mm Precision turbo (nothing larger will fit past the shock tower with that exhaust manifold), plus a Quick Spool Valve.

A friend of mine had an SC300 set up with that engine build combination and was making somewhere around 600whp-700whp with fantastic low end response and plenty of mid-range and high RPM power. And he still used the stock 2JZ-GE VVT-i intake manifold.

His ECU was initially one from an Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVT-i to set up the car on a baseline but then he switched to an aftermarket ECU to begin dialing in his setup. I don't remember which aftermarket ECU he was tuning with, sorry.

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Before you abandon the stock intake manifold look into the turbo side first. Turbo technology has improved a lot in the last 20 years and even without having VVT-i on the intake camshaft there are ways to improve the overall response with good low end before ditching the stock manifold entirely.

My 2JZ-GTE has the non-VVT-i type cylinder head and even though the later JDM versions of this engine had improved response from the addition of a VVT-i cylinder head it is primarily the sequential twin turbo system that gives even the Non-VVT-i version its great low end torque before fully opening up into parallel twin mode by 4,000RPM.

Today such a sequential twin system has been rendered obsolete by better turbo technology and VVT-i. In your case I would examine the turbo side of your engine and consider what you can do with the model and type of turbo, size of the turbo and to potentially include a QSV to improve the low end to mid range response and preserve your high end.

Beyond that, and totally depending on the intended and most common uses of your car, it may be worth considering a 2JZ-GE VVT-i cylinder head to build up for later on and an ECU system that can handle its VVT-i intake cam.

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Also, what kind of car do you have this engine installed into?

 

GS300, it has an aftermarket MLS Head Gasket already, all I need is cams, head studs, turbo, transmission, stand alone unit, drive shaft, differential, and axles. Do you know what HP rating the drivetrain can handle before it tells me that it doesn't want to be in my car and flies out?

 

Sorry I misunderstood. I thought you had the engine running already.

The maximum HP that your entire drivetrain can handle before something breaks entirely depends on the sum total parts in that drivetrain and the quality of the ECU tune/mapping. Without knowing more about your full setup it will be very hard to say.

Your bottom end seems to be built to handle power in the four figure range. Your cylinder head’s valvetrain would eventually need to be built if you plan to exceed its factory maximum RPM limit.

Your transmission choice will be a factor as well. If you’re staying automatic then a stock Aristo/Supra TT 2JZGTE automatic transmission can handle up to 500whp-ish stock.

If you send one of those off to ATF to be upgraded they can build it up to an 800-850whp rating.

If you’re going with a manual transmission swap into your GS300 then it will depend on what model of manual transmission you’ll be using.

An R154 fully built with Driftmotion and Marlin Crawler internals is good up to a limit of 700-750whp.

A Nissan CD009 6-speed is said to be good into the four figure range but I know little about its ultimate limits and weaknesses.

A Tremec Magnum 6-speed is factory rated for a *constant* 700 ft-lbs... meaning that for short durations it can handle much more torque than that. It is effectively the new top of the range manual transmission option for JZ engines today.

A Supra Getrag V160/161 6-speed is exceptionally and legendarily strong as well but today they are so rare and expensive and replacement parts for them so scarce that they are much better as collector car transmissions than as push-to-the-limit-until-they-break transmissions.

Your rear differential will be able to handle almost anything you can throw at it unless you are constantly drag racing with the car on slicks in the 1,000whp+ range.

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I strongly encourage you to make a build thread in the GS300/400 sub-forum where you can benefit from support and expertise from the community of GS owners with similar builds.

And of course since we all use the same engine we’ll be happy to help with advice in the SC300/400 Performance and Maintenance sub-forum as well.

 

do you have a usdm ge or a jdm ge? also what parts did you chnage and what changes did you make if you have to make any?