You should be able to safely charge at 24 amp so that gives you roughly 5.8 kW. It won't take quite as long as the example above.

Best thing, if possible, is to DCFC up to 80% somewhere near your brother's and use the L2 to top up to 100%. That would take you maybe 4 to 5 hours or so.

 

For my car hauler trailer which has power for outlets & AC, I've got a bunch of adapters for all sorts of 50 / 30 amp type plug styles. If you've got the right amp plug but wrong style, I suspect you can easily find an adapter.

That's another alternative if you can find an RV park or something with 30 or 50 amp plugs nearby, might be able to park your car there and pay the owner a bit to charge up. example https://www.goodsam.com/campgrounds-...cgid=202322622

 

Hahahaha, there ya go!

 

There aren't any DCFCs anywhere near him. Last DCFC is in Raphine 180 miles away. There are Tesla Superchargers, and level 2 public chargers but thats it.

I never thought of that! There are all kinds of camping areas and RV parking areas etc, and my cousin knows the owners of many of the rafting outfits...thats a great idea.

 

One of my coworkers bought a pop up trailer and takes his Y into the mountains. He told me he charges using the RV/trailer hookups, so that's absolutely an option if there are RV parking areas

 

Its a national park so there are plenty. He also has a shed at the top of his driveway and there might be a 240V outlet in there, he's going to check tomorrow. That would work great.

 

Does he actually have a dryer hooked up to it? If not, the best path is definitely to replace the outlet with a 14-30. You could then use a 24A charger like this one that uses the same plug. Even if he does, it still might be worth replacing the outlet and putting a new plug on the dryer, though obviously that's a touch more invasive--albeit forward-thinking since if he buys a new dryer in the future it will come with that plug and he won't have to do anything.

10-30s were banned in 1995 because they're unsafe (because there's no ground). You don't want a 15-X (I'm not aware of the 15-40 existing, they jump from 15-30 to 15-50) because that's for 3-phase power (Hot/Hot/Hot/Ground). You want a 14-X which is for split-phase 240V (Hot/Hot/Neutral/Ground). Since the current outlet is 30A, it's unlikely that the wiring and breaker are rated for 50A, so it is not ideal to put a 50A rated outlet there.

The 10-30 charger you listed will probably work, with two caveats: 1) Check to make sure it's UL listed, as they usually want a ground in order to grant certification. As of a couple years ago, Tesla was the only one that was UL listed. 2) When charging, the vehicle's body will be connected to the house neutral. If everything is wired correctly, there will be no problems. However, if there is miswiring somewhere in the house, the neutral can become energized. This is the same risk that the dryer (if installed) currently has.

 

AFAIK the Tesla unit is still the only one that is UL listed, could do that with an adapter. The plug could already be a 14-50/14-30, I will check it when I am there again in a couple weeks. There is a dryer hooked up to it now.

Its not that 10-30 outlets are "unsafe", every house in the world built before 95/96 pretty much has one for the dryer plug, its just that code changed to improve safety, 14-50 outlets are MORE safe.

 

Tesla sells a Universal charger, but I believe it comes with 14-50 plug, although you can easily pick up a 14-50 to 14-30 adapter for less than $20

 

The universal is hardwired. Just like the standard wall connector.
https://shop.tesla.com/product/universal-wall-connector

 

It's a matter of perspective, I guess. It's safe when everything is wired correctly and there are no wiring faults in the home. When one of those things is (or becomes) untrue, then you have live current on the skin of whatever is plugged into it. I (and the NEC) consider that unsafe, as the user is one error away from disaster. Those rules were changed in the 1960s when all ungrounded outlets were banned. The 10-30 was later granted a reprieve from the ban thanks to heavy lobbying by the appliance industry, and was grandfathered for dryers and ranges only, until being explicitly banned again in 1995. The excuse given for the reprieve basically boiled down to "well people don't mess with the neutral often, so it is unlikely that there will be a fault on the neutral." It was still considered unsafe.

Ground is the ultimate safety factor for most kinds of wiring fault. It gives any current leakage an easy return path. When there is no ground, the next easiest path will be used. In many cases, it's the unfortunate bag of meat that touches the energized device that becomes the shortest path to ground. That's why the electrical code was changed sixty years ago to require grounds for all outlets. Except this one, because $$$$.

 

You can make an argument that anything becomes "unsafe" once something safer becomes available. I have a 10-30 plug for my dryer, and I have no intention of replacing it.

 

True. The Mobile adapter I think only supports NACS

 

What does this mean? What wiring faults?

 

Houses have faults in the wiring all the time. Arc faults inside the walls, etc. Especially older houses with wiring that has degraded insulation. You also commonly see things wired improperly