16YROlds 95' SC300 NA-T Conversion
Thread Starter
10th Gear
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 14
Likes: 3
From: California
16YROlds 95' SC300 NA-T Conversion
Hey ya'll, im just starting this thread. I started doing my na-t conversion yesterday, starting with my GTE HG and ARP studs. Having an is300 friend (whos done his HG and water pump on two different occasions) help me out doing the head stuff since I dont exactly have a TON of experience. Hopefully will remember and keep ya'll updated.
16 Year Old car enthusiast since a child
Super excited. Influenced by my friends 25psi subaru ))))
PARTS LIST:
MAPECU 3
650CC H.I Injectors
340LPH AEM Fuel pump
AEM Gauges/Sensors (oil press, afr, boost, transmission flu temp soon to come)
XS-Power Turbo kit + CX Racing Intercooler kit (bigger IC upgrade)
Adjustable FPR
GTE HG and ARP Head Studs
Auto Trans (GETTING DUAL TRANS COOLER SETUP SOON)
and probably some stuff im forgetting. Will update when I remember what I got (im at school lmao).
16 Year Old car enthusiast since a child
Super excited. Influenced by my friends 25psi subaru ))))PARTS LIST:
MAPECU 3
650CC H.I Injectors
340LPH AEM Fuel pump
AEM Gauges/Sensors (oil press, afr, boost, transmission flu temp soon to come)
XS-Power Turbo kit + CX Racing Intercooler kit (bigger IC upgrade)
Adjustable FPR
GTE HG and ARP Head Studs
Auto Trans (GETTING DUAL TRANS COOLER SETUP SOON)
and probably some stuff im forgetting. Will update when I remember what I got (im at school lmao).
Welcome and congratulations on the build starting up! That's a good list so far!
Make sure you use a quality calibrated torque wrench when you install the ARP head studs and torque down the cylinder head. You have the factory TSRM I assume (if not, one of us can get you a copy or direct you to the right links for it), so follow its procedure to the letter, plus ARP's additional instructions. I believe 80 ft-lbs is ARP's recommended figure and since it's the most critical aspect of the engine build it really, really has to be uniform and accurate in exactly the right order.
I used a CDI 3/8" drive 1002MFRMH and a thinwall deep socket in 1/2" for the ARP stud nuts. For the washers, use OEM head stud washers instead of the ARP head stud washers.
...
Add to your parts list a Supra MKIV TT style Koyo radiator. You will need the extra cooling capacity that it will provide over stock. Use this DIY: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...s-of-pics.html
And if you are keeping an automatic transmission you will need to add a separate transmission cooler to the Koyo radiator but you listed that in your post. You'll probably need to get yourself an A341 auto trans from a Supra TT Auto, Aristo TT, Soarer 1JZ Auto or Chaser/Mark II/Cresta 1JZ before long. They are built better from the factory to handle turbo boost.
Also you may want to consider getting yourself a 1993-1996 Supra TT fan shroud and find yourself a used 93-96 TT aux fan w/bracket and wire that up to a Mishimotor fan controller.... or you can look in my build thread and see how to recreate the Supra electric auxiliary fan control circuit from scratch on an SC300. For only one OEM Toyota aux fan the Mishimoto fan controller will do.
The main stock mechanical fan clutch system still reliably flows more CFM (with the shroud) to cool the engine compartment than nearly all aftermarket electric fans. The only good alternative to that would be PHR's IS300 dual OEM fan shroud kit... but I still recommend the OEM mechanical fan with extra helper fans in addition over those.
...
The power build plan looks great so far but I'd caution against turning up the boost super high at the start. The SC is a big car that can be very nimble but it can be very deceiving very quickly with a lot of power if you aren't used to how the chassis responds.
I highly recommend that your very first priorities should be to update the suspension to give you better control and to change out the front brakes and rotors for 1995-2000 LS400 calipers and rotors. The stock brakes on the 92-97 SC300's are extremely inadequate even with the stock naturally aspirated power. If you start adding boost with tremendously more power and torque you really, really, really need to upgrade those front brakes to better handle rapid stops as well as normal panic stops. Trust me, at minimum the 95-00 LS400 front calipers are what SHOULD have come on these cars to begin with.
Next thing is your wheels and tires. Even without boost you'll notice handling and traction improvements going with a good staggered setup and 17"-18" rims that can handle the LS front brake calipers when combined with a good set up tires.
I get very good all around dry and wet traction and excellent treadwear with BFGoodrich Comp2 tires in 245's up front and 275's in the rear. Other good tire compounds with a good performance to dollar ratio can do the same. Look up reviews on Tirerack for tires that meet the size criteria you need and pay the most attention to reviews from owners of similarly powerful rear wheel drive performance cars. Pay close attention to what these reviews say about rain traction for a specific tire compound.
With an SC that is boosted you can drive them in the rain but the trick is to not *over*-drive them in the rain so as to cause the rear end to spin out on you. If you have an LSD installed, especially if it's a Torsen T-1 from a Supra (I run exactly that LSD in my car) you need to be mindful of this when in the turns or when downshifting on curves or turns in the wet. Smooth and gentle application of throttle, steering input and brakes in the rain make for a safely driven SC when the car has been set up the right way.
...
Also check into the health of your front lower control arms and of the steering rack bushings. OEM 93-96 Supra front lower control arms are the go-to replacement for these cars. For the steering rack, if its bushings are worn out, replace those with polyurethane bushings from Figs Engineering. For the steering rack itself, if it ever needs replacing... just get a new remanufactured one from Lexus-- not Rockauto. Lexus does reman steering racks to a higher standard. Other parts from Rockauto are fine, but not the steering rack itself. The PS lines, if leaking, you can have a local high pressure hose shop that deals with automative PS hoses repair that for you.
...
An also overlooked safety upgrade is the headlight system. Use a 3M headlight restoring kit for $40 off Amazon. The one that comes with the wipe-on clearcoat. Then I recommend an affordable HID upgrade option: the Phillips 4200k HID single-beam kit from XenonDepot (I run that HID plug-and-play kit in my own SC).
The better lighting improvement makes a world of difference in terms of road safety for any SC. Luckily these cars came with projector headlights from the factory but unluckily they used old style Halogen bulbs and never got an HID setup from the factory.
....
For gauges, also add to your list a separate coolant temperature gauge, a voltmeter gauge and an oil temperature gauge. Oil pressure is important but so is the oil temperature. You can get an oil pressure sensor off the oil filter housing area by installing an IS300 "Union Bolt" and an adapter from BSPT to NPT. You can get oil temperature by installing a sensor sandwich plate (try Mishimoto) between the oil filter mounting area and the oil filter. Or you can get your turbo oil feed from the IS300 Union Bolt and instead get both oil temp and oil press sensors screwed into that sandwich plate at the oil filter.
Depending on your power demands for the electrical system a Denso Supra TT Auto 100A alternator may suffice. If not and idle amps are not enough with that older design, try following the DIY guides on SupraForums for the Tundra alternator upgrade... but instead use a 2003+ 130A 6-phase OEM Denso/Toyota SC430 alternator. You will have to machine the casing slightly in order to make it fit but it's not very difficult. Measure carefully and use your cutoff wheel carefully.
A 6-phase UZ alternator upgrade, if the 100A 3-phase TT Auto version isn't enough, is very reliable. Don't forget to do a "Big 3" upgrade with it and to use an inline-fuse on the extra positive alternator wire that you will be adding.
....
There's a lot that goes into setting up an SC for boost beyond just the engine.
Please don't take this in the wrong way because I was in your position once myself (we all were) but take it easy once you have your SC set up. It's a lot of car when boosted. I say this as someone who at 16 years had a '69 Ford Mustang V8 with 250hp. That doesn't sound like a lot today but trust me, it's still a relevant number. Today's equivalent would be an SC or something else similar to it. There were plenty of ways to get far more power out of that Ford. My own SC is now making a very mild (for an SC) 350hp with the torque coming on very quickly. The power is plenty for an all-rounder.
I would recommend starting at low boost and building up to more. This shouldn't be an issue with the 9.2:1 compression you will be getting with the TT head gasket. The saying goes that once you have boost and experience it you tend to want more boost than you have already... and after that some more boost than that... and after that... etc. etc. However there is something to be said about taking a gradual approach with it.
Again, please understand that the words of caution are not intended to be taken in the wrong way. It's just a way of saying that as cool and amazing as a boosted car is... just be safe and smart while using it. Above all, build it for *yourself* and no one else.
Make sure you use a quality calibrated torque wrench when you install the ARP head studs and torque down the cylinder head. You have the factory TSRM I assume (if not, one of us can get you a copy or direct you to the right links for it), so follow its procedure to the letter, plus ARP's additional instructions. I believe 80 ft-lbs is ARP's recommended figure and since it's the most critical aspect of the engine build it really, really has to be uniform and accurate in exactly the right order.
I used a CDI 3/8" drive 1002MFRMH and a thinwall deep socket in 1/2" for the ARP stud nuts. For the washers, use OEM head stud washers instead of the ARP head stud washers.
...
Add to your parts list a Supra MKIV TT style Koyo radiator. You will need the extra cooling capacity that it will provide over stock. Use this DIY: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...s-of-pics.html
And if you are keeping an automatic transmission you will need to add a separate transmission cooler to the Koyo radiator but you listed that in your post. You'll probably need to get yourself an A341 auto trans from a Supra TT Auto, Aristo TT, Soarer 1JZ Auto or Chaser/Mark II/Cresta 1JZ before long. They are built better from the factory to handle turbo boost.
Also you may want to consider getting yourself a 1993-1996 Supra TT fan shroud and find yourself a used 93-96 TT aux fan w/bracket and wire that up to a Mishimotor fan controller.... or you can look in my build thread and see how to recreate the Supra electric auxiliary fan control circuit from scratch on an SC300. For only one OEM Toyota aux fan the Mishimoto fan controller will do.
The main stock mechanical fan clutch system still reliably flows more CFM (with the shroud) to cool the engine compartment than nearly all aftermarket electric fans. The only good alternative to that would be PHR's IS300 dual OEM fan shroud kit... but I still recommend the OEM mechanical fan with extra helper fans in addition over those.
...
The power build plan looks great so far but I'd caution against turning up the boost super high at the start. The SC is a big car that can be very nimble but it can be very deceiving very quickly with a lot of power if you aren't used to how the chassis responds.
I highly recommend that your very first priorities should be to update the suspension to give you better control and to change out the front brakes and rotors for 1995-2000 LS400 calipers and rotors. The stock brakes on the 92-97 SC300's are extremely inadequate even with the stock naturally aspirated power. If you start adding boost with tremendously more power and torque you really, really, really need to upgrade those front brakes to better handle rapid stops as well as normal panic stops. Trust me, at minimum the 95-00 LS400 front calipers are what SHOULD have come on these cars to begin with.
Next thing is your wheels and tires. Even without boost you'll notice handling and traction improvements going with a good staggered setup and 17"-18" rims that can handle the LS front brake calipers when combined with a good set up tires.
I get very good all around dry and wet traction and excellent treadwear with BFGoodrich Comp2 tires in 245's up front and 275's in the rear. Other good tire compounds with a good performance to dollar ratio can do the same. Look up reviews on Tirerack for tires that meet the size criteria you need and pay the most attention to reviews from owners of similarly powerful rear wheel drive performance cars. Pay close attention to what these reviews say about rain traction for a specific tire compound.
With an SC that is boosted you can drive them in the rain but the trick is to not *over*-drive them in the rain so as to cause the rear end to spin out on you. If you have an LSD installed, especially if it's a Torsen T-1 from a Supra (I run exactly that LSD in my car) you need to be mindful of this when in the turns or when downshifting on curves or turns in the wet. Smooth and gentle application of throttle, steering input and brakes in the rain make for a safely driven SC when the car has been set up the right way.
...
Also check into the health of your front lower control arms and of the steering rack bushings. OEM 93-96 Supra front lower control arms are the go-to replacement for these cars. For the steering rack, if its bushings are worn out, replace those with polyurethane bushings from Figs Engineering. For the steering rack itself, if it ever needs replacing... just get a new remanufactured one from Lexus-- not Rockauto. Lexus does reman steering racks to a higher standard. Other parts from Rockauto are fine, but not the steering rack itself. The PS lines, if leaking, you can have a local high pressure hose shop that deals with automative PS hoses repair that for you.
...
An also overlooked safety upgrade is the headlight system. Use a 3M headlight restoring kit for $40 off Amazon. The one that comes with the wipe-on clearcoat. Then I recommend an affordable HID upgrade option: the Phillips 4200k HID single-beam kit from XenonDepot (I run that HID plug-and-play kit in my own SC).
The better lighting improvement makes a world of difference in terms of road safety for any SC. Luckily these cars came with projector headlights from the factory but unluckily they used old style Halogen bulbs and never got an HID setup from the factory.
....
For gauges, also add to your list a separate coolant temperature gauge, a voltmeter gauge and an oil temperature gauge. Oil pressure is important but so is the oil temperature. You can get an oil pressure sensor off the oil filter housing area by installing an IS300 "Union Bolt" and an adapter from BSPT to NPT. You can get oil temperature by installing a sensor sandwich plate (try Mishimoto) between the oil filter mounting area and the oil filter. Or you can get your turbo oil feed from the IS300 Union Bolt and instead get both oil temp and oil press sensors screwed into that sandwich plate at the oil filter.
Depending on your power demands for the electrical system a Denso Supra TT Auto 100A alternator may suffice. If not and idle amps are not enough with that older design, try following the DIY guides on SupraForums for the Tundra alternator upgrade... but instead use a 2003+ 130A 6-phase OEM Denso/Toyota SC430 alternator. You will have to machine the casing slightly in order to make it fit but it's not very difficult. Measure carefully and use your cutoff wheel carefully.
A 6-phase UZ alternator upgrade, if the 100A 3-phase TT Auto version isn't enough, is very reliable. Don't forget to do a "Big 3" upgrade with it and to use an inline-fuse on the extra positive alternator wire that you will be adding.
....
There's a lot that goes into setting up an SC for boost beyond just the engine.
Please don't take this in the wrong way because I was in your position once myself (we all were) but take it easy once you have your SC set up. It's a lot of car when boosted. I say this as someone who at 16 years had a '69 Ford Mustang V8 with 250hp. That doesn't sound like a lot today but trust me, it's still a relevant number. Today's equivalent would be an SC or something else similar to it. There were plenty of ways to get far more power out of that Ford. My own SC is now making a very mild (for an SC) 350hp with the torque coming on very quickly. The power is plenty for an all-rounder.
I would recommend starting at low boost and building up to more. This shouldn't be an issue with the 9.2:1 compression you will be getting with the TT head gasket. The saying goes that once you have boost and experience it you tend to want more boost than you have already... and after that some more boost than that... and after that... etc. etc. However there is something to be said about taking a gradual approach with it.
Again, please understand that the words of caution are not intended to be taken in the wrong way. It's just a way of saying that as cool and amazing as a boosted car is... just be safe and smart while using it. Above all, build it for *yourself* and no one else.
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2,392
Likes: 1,219
From: CO
Welcome! Many of us here started out as young as you and we look forward to seeing your progression as an enthusiast and tuner! Best of luck and be sure to reference the many awesome threads on here for plenty of info.
Thread Starter
10th Gear
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 14
Likes: 3
From: California
Welcome and congratulations on the build starting up! That's a good list so far!
Make sure you use a quality calibrated torque wrench when you install the ARP head studs and torque down the cylinder head. You have the factory TSRM I assume (if not, one of us can get you a copy or direct you to the right links for it), so follow its procedure to the letter, plus ARP's additional instructions. I believe 80 ft-lbs is ARP's recommended figure and since it's the most critical aspect of the engine build it really, really has to be uniform and accurate in exactly the right order.
I used a CDI 3/8" drive 1002MFRMH and a thinwall deep socket in 1/2" for the ARP stud nuts. For the washers, use OEM head stud washers instead of the ARP head stud washers.
...
Add to your parts list a Supra MKIV TT style Koyo radiator. You will need the extra cooling capacity that it will provide over stock. Use this DIY: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...s-of-pics.html
And if you are keeping an automatic transmission you will need to add a separate transmission cooler to the Koyo radiator but you listed that in your post. You'll probably need to get yourself an A341 auto trans from a Supra TT Auto, Aristo TT, Soarer 1JZ Auto or Chaser/Mark II/Cresta 1JZ before long. They are built better from the factory to handle turbo boost.
Also you may want to consider getting yourself a 1993-1996 Supra TT fan shroud and find yourself a used 93-96 TT aux fan w/bracket and wire that up to a Mishimotor fan controller.... or you can look in my build thread and see how to recreate the Supra electric auxiliary fan control circuit from scratch on an SC300. For only one OEM Toyota aux fan the Mishimoto fan controller will do.
The main stock mechanical fan clutch system still reliably flows more CFM (with the shroud) to cool the engine compartment than nearly all aftermarket electric fans. The only good alternative to that would be PHR's IS300 dual OEM fan shroud kit... but I still recommend the OEM mechanical fan with extra helper fans in addition over those.
...
The power build plan looks great so far but I'd caution against turning up the boost super high at the start. The SC is a big car that can be very nimble but it can be very deceiving very quickly with a lot of power if you aren't used to how the chassis responds.
I highly recommend that your very first priorities should be to update the suspension to give you better control and to change out the front brakes and rotors for 1995-2000 LS400 calipers and rotors. The stock brakes on the 92-97 SC300's are extremely inadequate even with the stock naturally aspirated power. If you start adding boost with tremendously more power and torque you really, really, really need to upgrade those front brakes to better handle rapid stops as well as normal panic stops. Trust me, at minimum the 95-00 LS400 front calipers are what SHOULD have come on these cars to begin with.
Next thing is your wheels and tires. Even without boost you'll notice handling and traction improvements going with a good staggered setup and 17"-18" rims that can handle the LS front brake calipers when combined with a good set up tires.
I get very good all around dry and wet traction and excellent treadwear with BFGoodrich Comp2 tires in 245's up front and 275's in the rear. Other good tire compounds with a good performance to dollar ratio can do the same. Look up reviews on Tirerack for tires that meet the size criteria you need and pay the most attention to reviews from owners of similarly powerful rear wheel drive performance cars. Pay close attention to what these reviews say about rain traction for a specific tire compound.
With an SC that is boosted you can drive them in the rain but the trick is to not *over*-drive them in the rain so as to cause the rear end to spin out on you. If you have an LSD installed, especially if it's a Torsen T-1 from a Supra (I run exactly that LSD in my car) you need to be mindful of this when in the turns or when downshifting on curves or turns in the wet. Smooth and gentle application of throttle, steering input and brakes in the rain make for a safely driven SC when the car has been set up the right way.
...
Also check into the health of your front lower control arms and of the steering rack bushings. OEM 93-96 Supra front lower control arms are the go-to replacement for these cars. For the steering rack, if its bushings are worn out, replace those with polyurethane bushings from Figs Engineering. For the steering rack itself, if it ever needs replacing... just get a new remanufactured one from Lexus-- not Rockauto. Lexus does reman steering racks to a higher standard. Other parts from Rockauto are fine, but not the steering rack itself. The PS lines, if leaking, you can have a local high pressure hose shop that deals with automative PS hoses repair that for you.
...
An also overlooked safety upgrade is the headlight system. Use a 3M headlight restoring kit for $40 off Amazon. The one that comes with the wipe-on clearcoat. Then I recommend an affordable HID upgrade option: the Phillips 4200k HID single-beam kit from XenonDepot (I run that HID plug-and-play kit in my own SC).
The better lighting improvement makes a world of difference in terms of road safety for any SC. Luckily these cars came with projector headlights from the factory but unluckily they used old style Halogen bulbs and never got an HID setup from the factory.
....
For gauges, also add to your list a separate coolant temperature gauge, a voltmeter gauge and an oil temperature gauge. Oil pressure is important but so is the oil temperature. You can get an oil pressure sensor off the oil filter housing area by installing an IS300 "Union Bolt" and an adapter from BSPT to NPT. You can get oil temperature by installing a sensor sandwich plate (try Mishimoto) between the oil filter mounting area and the oil filter. Or you can get your turbo oil feed from the IS300 Union Bolt and instead get both oil temp and oil press sensors screwed into that sandwich plate at the oil filter.
Depending on your power demands for the electrical system a Denso Supra TT Auto 100A alternator may suffice. If not and idle amps are not enough with that older design, try following the DIY guides on SupraForums for the Tundra alternator upgrade... but instead use a 2003+ 130A 6-phase OEM Denso/Toyota SC430 alternator. You will have to machine the casing slightly in order to make it fit but it's not very difficult. Measure carefully and use your cutoff wheel carefully.
A 6-phase UZ alternator upgrade, if the 100A 3-phase TT Auto version isn't enough, is very reliable. Don't forget to do a "Big 3" upgrade with it and to use an inline-fuse on the extra positive alternator wire that you will be adding.
....
There's a lot that goes into setting up an SC for boost beyond just the engine.
Please don't take this in the wrong way because I was in your position once myself (we all were) but take it easy once you have your SC set up. It's a lot of car when boosted. I say this as someone who at 16 years had a '69 Ford Mustang V8 with 250hp. That doesn't sound like a lot today but trust me, it's still a relevant number. Today's equivalent would be an SC or something else similar to it. There were plenty of ways to get far more power out of that Ford. My own SC is now making a very mild (for an SC) 350hp with the torque coming on very quickly. The power is plenty for an all-rounder.
I would recommend starting at low boost and building up to more. This shouldn't be an issue with the 9.2:1 compression you will be getting with the TT head gasket. The saying goes that once you have boost and experience it you tend to want more boost than you have already... and after that some more boost than that... and after that... etc. etc. However there is something to be said about taking a gradual approach with it.
Again, please understand that the words of caution are not intended to be taken in the wrong way. It's just a way of saying that as cool and amazing as a boosted car is... just be safe and smart while using it. Above all, build it for *yourself* and no one else.
Make sure you use a quality calibrated torque wrench when you install the ARP head studs and torque down the cylinder head. You have the factory TSRM I assume (if not, one of us can get you a copy or direct you to the right links for it), so follow its procedure to the letter, plus ARP's additional instructions. I believe 80 ft-lbs is ARP's recommended figure and since it's the most critical aspect of the engine build it really, really has to be uniform and accurate in exactly the right order.
I used a CDI 3/8" drive 1002MFRMH and a thinwall deep socket in 1/2" for the ARP stud nuts. For the washers, use OEM head stud washers instead of the ARP head stud washers.
...
Add to your parts list a Supra MKIV TT style Koyo radiator. You will need the extra cooling capacity that it will provide over stock. Use this DIY: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...s-of-pics.html
And if you are keeping an automatic transmission you will need to add a separate transmission cooler to the Koyo radiator but you listed that in your post. You'll probably need to get yourself an A341 auto trans from a Supra TT Auto, Aristo TT, Soarer 1JZ Auto or Chaser/Mark II/Cresta 1JZ before long. They are built better from the factory to handle turbo boost.
Also you may want to consider getting yourself a 1993-1996 Supra TT fan shroud and find yourself a used 93-96 TT aux fan w/bracket and wire that up to a Mishimotor fan controller.... or you can look in my build thread and see how to recreate the Supra electric auxiliary fan control circuit from scratch on an SC300. For only one OEM Toyota aux fan the Mishimoto fan controller will do.
The main stock mechanical fan clutch system still reliably flows more CFM (with the shroud) to cool the engine compartment than nearly all aftermarket electric fans. The only good alternative to that would be PHR's IS300 dual OEM fan shroud kit... but I still recommend the OEM mechanical fan with extra helper fans in addition over those.
...
The power build plan looks great so far but I'd caution against turning up the boost super high at the start. The SC is a big car that can be very nimble but it can be very deceiving very quickly with a lot of power if you aren't used to how the chassis responds.
I highly recommend that your very first priorities should be to update the suspension to give you better control and to change out the front brakes and rotors for 1995-2000 LS400 calipers and rotors. The stock brakes on the 92-97 SC300's are extremely inadequate even with the stock naturally aspirated power. If you start adding boost with tremendously more power and torque you really, really, really need to upgrade those front brakes to better handle rapid stops as well as normal panic stops. Trust me, at minimum the 95-00 LS400 front calipers are what SHOULD have come on these cars to begin with.
Next thing is your wheels and tires. Even without boost you'll notice handling and traction improvements going with a good staggered setup and 17"-18" rims that can handle the LS front brake calipers when combined with a good set up tires.
I get very good all around dry and wet traction and excellent treadwear with BFGoodrich Comp2 tires in 245's up front and 275's in the rear. Other good tire compounds with a good performance to dollar ratio can do the same. Look up reviews on Tirerack for tires that meet the size criteria you need and pay the most attention to reviews from owners of similarly powerful rear wheel drive performance cars. Pay close attention to what these reviews say about rain traction for a specific tire compound.
With an SC that is boosted you can drive them in the rain but the trick is to not *over*-drive them in the rain so as to cause the rear end to spin out on you. If you have an LSD installed, especially if it's a Torsen T-1 from a Supra (I run exactly that LSD in my car) you need to be mindful of this when in the turns or when downshifting on curves or turns in the wet. Smooth and gentle application of throttle, steering input and brakes in the rain make for a safely driven SC when the car has been set up the right way.
...
Also check into the health of your front lower control arms and of the steering rack bushings. OEM 93-96 Supra front lower control arms are the go-to replacement for these cars. For the steering rack, if its bushings are worn out, replace those with polyurethane bushings from Figs Engineering. For the steering rack itself, if it ever needs replacing... just get a new remanufactured one from Lexus-- not Rockauto. Lexus does reman steering racks to a higher standard. Other parts from Rockauto are fine, but not the steering rack itself. The PS lines, if leaking, you can have a local high pressure hose shop that deals with automative PS hoses repair that for you.
...
An also overlooked safety upgrade is the headlight system. Use a 3M headlight restoring kit for $40 off Amazon. The one that comes with the wipe-on clearcoat. Then I recommend an affordable HID upgrade option: the Phillips 4200k HID single-beam kit from XenonDepot (I run that HID plug-and-play kit in my own SC).
The better lighting improvement makes a world of difference in terms of road safety for any SC. Luckily these cars came with projector headlights from the factory but unluckily they used old style Halogen bulbs and never got an HID setup from the factory.
....
For gauges, also add to your list a separate coolant temperature gauge, a voltmeter gauge and an oil temperature gauge. Oil pressure is important but so is the oil temperature. You can get an oil pressure sensor off the oil filter housing area by installing an IS300 "Union Bolt" and an adapter from BSPT to NPT. You can get oil temperature by installing a sensor sandwich plate (try Mishimoto) between the oil filter mounting area and the oil filter. Or you can get your turbo oil feed from the IS300 Union Bolt and instead get both oil temp and oil press sensors screwed into that sandwich plate at the oil filter.
Depending on your power demands for the electrical system a Denso Supra TT Auto 100A alternator may suffice. If not and idle amps are not enough with that older design, try following the DIY guides on SupraForums for the Tundra alternator upgrade... but instead use a 2003+ 130A 6-phase OEM Denso/Toyota SC430 alternator. You will have to machine the casing slightly in order to make it fit but it's not very difficult. Measure carefully and use your cutoff wheel carefully.
A 6-phase UZ alternator upgrade, if the 100A 3-phase TT Auto version isn't enough, is very reliable. Don't forget to do a "Big 3" upgrade with it and to use an inline-fuse on the extra positive alternator wire that you will be adding.
....
There's a lot that goes into setting up an SC for boost beyond just the engine.
Please don't take this in the wrong way because I was in your position once myself (we all were) but take it easy once you have your SC set up. It's a lot of car when boosted. I say this as someone who at 16 years had a '69 Ford Mustang V8 with 250hp. That doesn't sound like a lot today but trust me, it's still a relevant number. Today's equivalent would be an SC or something else similar to it. There were plenty of ways to get far more power out of that Ford. My own SC is now making a very mild (for an SC) 350hp with the torque coming on very quickly. The power is plenty for an all-rounder.
I would recommend starting at low boost and building up to more. This shouldn't be an issue with the 9.2:1 compression you will be getting with the TT head gasket. The saying goes that once you have boost and experience it you tend to want more boost than you have already... and after that some more boost than that... and after that... etc. etc. However there is something to be said about taking a gradual approach with it.
Again, please understand that the words of caution are not intended to be taken in the wrong way. It's just a way of saying that as cool and amazing as a boosted car is... just be safe and smart while using it. Above all, build it for *yourself* and no one else.
Thanks for all the tips man, I really appreciate it! This headgasket has been kicking my ***. Spent 200$ on different websites trying to buy a tool to get the damn head bolts out and finally found one that works. Just waiting for a day off of work now lol. Anyways, I have a oil filter sandwich plate installed as well as my ecu already wired in and my gauges as well. I am planning on getting a trans temp gauge, maybe an oil temp gauge, and setting up my boost gauge whenever I install my actual turbo kit. I'm planning to run 8-10psi straight off of the bat more so because money issues, I don't want to start low and have to pay more money to get it tuned for more, because all the JZ tuners near me are super busy and jam packed so they charge a lot. Anyways, thanks again and i'm off to bed. I will try to get some pictures if I get the chance. Have a good one!
...
You must remove the stock original head bolts in the order that the TSRM dictates to avoid warping the head upon removal-- if you do not have the TSRM then you'll need them. Here is one MKIV site that hosts the relevant pages: https://www.shoarmateam.nl/content/mkiv-supra-tsrm/
And you need a good calibrated torque wrench for that job. A garden variety Kobalt will not do. The CDI 1002MFRMH, a short 2" extension and a 1/2" 12-point thinwall socket will do the trick. Again, the exact procedure in the manual is critical other than ARP's final torque recommendation for their head bolts. Their included bolt thread grease is key as well.
I used tan color painter's tape strips and a Sharpie marker to mark the number of each head bolt/stud location on the head as dictated in the TSRM instructions. That made it really easy to follow the pre-determined de-torque and re-torque order. Three separate passes in gradual stages up to the final torque number are what are required.
Also this may sound elementary but once you're in there make sure you've got your OEM GTE head gasket oriented the correct way. There really is only one right way to install it but in at least one case I've seen someone install it the wrong way around by accident.
You can see how I did the head gasket install for my build here. Lots of detail to help you. The procedure is exactly the same for a 2JZ-GE:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post9912185
....
The oil pan's turbo drain area... I highly recommend pulling the engine to do all of this work but you'll need to in order to get that oil pan off. You have to remove it in order to drill out that un-machined drain area and tap it for your return... and then clean it of shavings thoroughly before reinstalling it. ANY metal shavings will be very very bad so don't even chance it. You might also do well to send that oil pan to a local machine shop that has a sonic cleaning bath to get it clean of caked gunk that might retain any fine metal shavings from your drilling.
Pulling the engine also gives you easy access to install a brand new water pump, brand new 2JZ-GE VVT-i oil pump and correct type crank trigger gear for your application (for a crank sensor). You'll be doing a new timing belt job anyway.
8-10 psi is pretty normal. That's right about what a stock 2JZ-GTE boosts at with no modification.
I recommend a mechanical boost gauge for something affordable and accurate. ALL other gauges will be easier to do as electric sender type. If your set of aftermarket gauges does not already include one for oil temperature... get one now. For a turbocharged SC you should monitor both oil pressure *and* oil temperature... and your sandwich plate under the oil filter should have a spot for both sending units. And of course a separate gauge for water temperature and your boost gauge.
A transmission temperature gauge for an automatic setup is a good idea. You absolutely will need a separate transmission oil cooler. If you're re-using the stock SC300 Auto A340 transmission I am not sure how long it will hold up under boost but the cooler will help.
Certainly share some pictures here if you can! Your progress sounds good so far!
Last edited by KahnBB6; Nov 16, 2021 at 12:18 AM.
Thread Starter
10th Gear
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 14
Likes: 3
From: California
You're welcome and I hope they help! Setting up the chassis for better than stock handling and braking control and addressing worn out steering rack bushings and worn out front LCAs are some of the biggest prep areas before going turbo.
...
You must remove the stock original head bolts in the order that the TSRM dictates to avoid warping the head upon removal-- if you do not have the TSRM then you'll need them. Here is one MKIV site that hosts the relevant pages: https://www.shoarmateam.nl/content/mkiv-supra-tsrm/
And you need a good calibrated torque wrench for that job. A garden variety Kobalt will not do. The CDI 1002MFRMH, a short 2" extension and a 1/2" 12-point thinwall socket will do the trick. Again, the exact procedure in the manual is critical other than ARP's final torque recommendation for their head bolts. Their included bolt thread grease is key as well.
I used tan color painter's tape strips and a Sharpie marker to mark the number of each head bolt/stud location on the head as dictated in the TSRM instructions. That made it really easy to follow the pre-determined de-torque and re-torque order. Three separate passes in gradual stages up to the final torque number are what are required.
Also this may sound elementary but once you're in there make sure you've got your OEM GTE head gasket oriented the correct way. There really is only one right way to install it but in at least one case I've seen someone install it the wrong way around by accident.
You can see how I did the head gasket install for my build here. Lots of detail to help you. The procedure is exactly the same for a 2JZ-GE:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post9912185
....
The oil pan's turbo drain area... I highly recommend pulling the engine to do all of this work but you'll need to in order to get that oil pan off. You have to remove it in order to drill out that un-machined drain area and tap it for your return... and then clean it of shavings thoroughly before reinstalling it. ANY metal shavings will be very very bad so don't even chance it. You might also do well to send that oil pan to a local machine shop that has a sonic cleaning bath to get it clean of caked gunk that might retain any fine metal shavings from your drilling.
Pulling the engine also gives you easy access to install a brand new water pump, brand new 2JZ-GE VVT-i oil pump and correct type crank trigger gear for your application (for a crank sensor). You'll be doing a new timing belt job anyway.
8-10 psi is pretty normal. That's right about what a stock 2JZ-GTE boosts at with no modification.
I recommend a mechanical boost gauge for something affordable and accurate. ALL other gauges will be easier to do as electric sender type. If your set of aftermarket gauges does not already include one for oil temperature... get one now. For a turbocharged SC you should monitor both oil pressure *and* oil temperature... and your sandwich plate under the oil filter should have a spot for both sending units. And of course a separate gauge for water temperature and your boost gauge.
A transmission temperature gauge for an automatic setup is a good idea. You absolutely will need a separate transmission oil cooler. If you're re-using the stock SC300 Auto A340 transmission I am not sure how long it will hold up under boost but the cooler will help.
Certainly share some pictures here if you can! Your progress sounds good so far!
...
You must remove the stock original head bolts in the order that the TSRM dictates to avoid warping the head upon removal-- if you do not have the TSRM then you'll need them. Here is one MKIV site that hosts the relevant pages: https://www.shoarmateam.nl/content/mkiv-supra-tsrm/
And you need a good calibrated torque wrench for that job. A garden variety Kobalt will not do. The CDI 1002MFRMH, a short 2" extension and a 1/2" 12-point thinwall socket will do the trick. Again, the exact procedure in the manual is critical other than ARP's final torque recommendation for their head bolts. Their included bolt thread grease is key as well.
I used tan color painter's tape strips and a Sharpie marker to mark the number of each head bolt/stud location on the head as dictated in the TSRM instructions. That made it really easy to follow the pre-determined de-torque and re-torque order. Three separate passes in gradual stages up to the final torque number are what are required.
Also this may sound elementary but once you're in there make sure you've got your OEM GTE head gasket oriented the correct way. There really is only one right way to install it but in at least one case I've seen someone install it the wrong way around by accident.
You can see how I did the head gasket install for my build here. Lots of detail to help you. The procedure is exactly the same for a 2JZ-GE:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post9912185
....
The oil pan's turbo drain area... I highly recommend pulling the engine to do all of this work but you'll need to in order to get that oil pan off. You have to remove it in order to drill out that un-machined drain area and tap it for your return... and then clean it of shavings thoroughly before reinstalling it. ANY metal shavings will be very very bad so don't even chance it. You might also do well to send that oil pan to a local machine shop that has a sonic cleaning bath to get it clean of caked gunk that might retain any fine metal shavings from your drilling.
Pulling the engine also gives you easy access to install a brand new water pump, brand new 2JZ-GE VVT-i oil pump and correct type crank trigger gear for your application (for a crank sensor). You'll be doing a new timing belt job anyway.
8-10 psi is pretty normal. That's right about what a stock 2JZ-GTE boosts at with no modification.
I recommend a mechanical boost gauge for something affordable and accurate. ALL other gauges will be easier to do as electric sender type. If your set of aftermarket gauges does not already include one for oil temperature... get one now. For a turbocharged SC you should monitor both oil pressure *and* oil temperature... and your sandwich plate under the oil filter should have a spot for both sending units. And of course a separate gauge for water temperature and your boost gauge.
A transmission temperature gauge for an automatic setup is a good idea. You absolutely will need a separate transmission oil cooler. If you're re-using the stock SC300 Auto A340 transmission I am not sure how long it will hold up under boost but the cooler will help.
Certainly share some pictures here if you can! Your progress sounds good so far!
So I did end up getting the bolts off, and the head wiggles a little bit now, just have a few more things I need to disconnect. I've figured out I can leave the intake manifold and fuel injector/ all that stuff on the head with exception of a few things and still pull it off. Although you recommend doing the oil pan with the engine out, its just not an option I have sadly. My plan was to be completely safe with it, I was going to have a high power vacuum close to the drill, I was going to pressurize the oil pan as well with a high pressure air compressor through the oil dipstick hole, as well as use EXTREME amounts of grease. I am not going to tap it, I am just going to get it welded on i've decided to reduce the risk of more shavings. I am then going to pour mineral oil in the actual hole, then through the dipstick, and let it air dry and drip out slowly. Then do a overfilled oil fillup (around to above where the hole is since I have a blockoff), drain it one more time and then be done. Just to reduce any risk of shavings. I'm planning to run it at 300w or around there to keep the stock auto reliable atleast for a few months until I order my built a340e from ATFspeed/ C&C (not sure which one yet since i've heard ATF is very slow at building and sending them, and C&C has them ready to be shipped but has a core charge since I wont be sending mine in)
If you're already going to spend this much money on other items plus a built ATF A340 auto trans in a few months I don't recommend that you take the unnecessary risk of drilling out the oil pan drain area with the pan still on the car.
I understand the precautions and methods you plan to use and I have read about those before myself but even still it is a big risk to do this procedure with the upper pan still installed on the engine. For one thing you shouldn't just make a partial hole in that spot. You need the ENTIRE blanked area drilled out and smoothed so as to have no obstruction or restriction for the oil return path and flow.
It is still going to be very difficult to keep the soft aluminum shavings out of your oil pan when doing this. Some people report that they did it extremely carefully and had no issues but there is no guarantee. If shavings do stay in the pan and if any of them get into the bearings or rotating assembly that can lead to a very bad time.
Is it no possible for you to get a new or used 2-ton engine crane and a V-stand? What about accessing a shop lift, installing a temporary engine support beam up top and then dropping the front subframe so as to gain access to the lower and upper oil pans?
I strongly recommend against welding on the turbo return flange. Just drill it and then tap the two stud areas for M8 x 1.25 and the two OEM 90116-08348 studs and two 90080-17242 nuts. Use a common AN-10 turbo oil return flange for 2JZ's and a 15472-46010 gasket. It is better to keep things on the engine serviceable in case there is a need to in the future.
I still very strongly recommend figuring out some way to pull the engine or drop the subframe to get the lower and upper oil pans off so that you can thoroughly clean them of all the metal shavings before you reinstall them. I just really, really, really would not risk it myself. Done right you should only ever need to have the engine out one time ever for an NA-T conversion.
See the video below especially to get an idea of just how severe the metal shavings can be when doing this on any kind of engine oil pan. Using cutting grease is a good idea anyway but even that and an overfilled engine isn't a 100% guarantee that you'll keep all the shavings out. They get everywhere.
When I did my pan (with it removed from the car) I tried to be tidy but the shavings still got everywhere. After drilling out and tapping for the studs I thoroughly cleaned the pan with simple green and sprayed it all over in a shop sink and dried it off before it was ready to go back on.
Nonetheless I am going to include these links below in case they may help. In most of them it is still not recommended that you do this with the pan installed on the block.
https://www.supraforums.com/threads/...il-pan.364074/
https://www.supraforums.com/threads/...he-car.657769/
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...turn-na-t.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...bo-return.html
I also don't think this guy's method is foolproof either but it sounds a bit like what you are thinking of trying. The grease and engine overfilled with oil will catch some of the shavings but not everything. I think Ali SC3 had good luck doing this with the oil pan still on his car but again, there's no guarantee you'll catch all the shavings. And you definitely do not want aluminum shavings in your oil pan.
Last edited by KahnBB6; Nov 18, 2021 at 01:04 AM.
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Jun 30, 2013 10:18 AM