After doing the compression test, did you repeat the test on cylinder #2? Any chance the battery was getting low and that was the last cylinder done?

If you have an air compressor, you might think about doing a leak down test. It would help isolate the problem. If it runs smooth and pulls well, that is a huge difference in values. Could it have been your gauge not seated or anything else? It just seems hard to believe it would be low by that much. Did that plug have a bunch of deposits on it? I doubt it would be burning clean if the compression is that low.

 

that's what we thought as well, the car was hooked up to a charger during the tests too. We did each cylinder one by one until we reached cylinder 2, honestly 140 was the best it could do, it was constantly reading 130s. So we skipped over it briefly to test the other cylinders and then check back and they were all reading normally except #2 was consistently reading 130s every single time. I was honestly shocked at the disparity as well. All the plugs looked the same, small deposits on each, nothing noticeably different.

It's kind of disappointing but at least I have a basis for moving on now. Allows me to save money for the next big thing.

 

In addition to a leak down test, you could add some oil through the plug hole and repeat the test. If the PSI goes up, it's rings. If no change it is valves.

Pulling the head is doable to fix a valve leak.

Just throwing out options.

Oh and if it happens to be piston rings, grab Some Yamaha Ring Free and run it through. People have reported good things regarding compression coming up. It couldn't hurt.

 

thanks a lot for the recommendations. Really useful post. I'll keep it in mind for the long run!

 

NP.... this stuff is a tad spendy as these folks --> Chevron and Yamaha designed it.... $46

You have to pull the manifold to do a compression test, yes?

 

thanks for the direct link! Yes we did remove the manifold to do the compression check. Basically like a spark plug service, removing the intake manifold...removing spark plugs, plugging in the measuring tool(gauge? not sure what it's called), trying to start the car, get the reading etc.

 

how does this work? Is it just a fuel additive? Do I dump the whole thing into my tank?

 

Just a fuel additive. Think it's 10gal fuel to 1 oz RF. Most would do a shock treatment with a double dose or more. You'll have to read up on max value. When done with the treatment, dump the oil and filter.

 

So what happened with ECU issue?

 

Thanks for checking up man, but nothing so far. I've been busy with work that I haven't found a chance to drop by the shop to do the follow up checks. I'll try my hand at pulling out the ecu myself to check for rust, shouldn't be too difficult... Else I mean the car is still driving fine so I can't believe it's the ECU being bad. I talked to RR Racing and they've t old me the tune shouldn't have anything to do with the error but I could try to flash back to stock. I'm still holding off on that.

 

Picked up some stuff as finishing touches for the build

 

 

I feel like I'm buying two tires every year... After this pair im gonna get out of my michelin fanboyism and try some other tires. In the meantime, just got two new PSS installed


You know I never really checked on my tires after I installed the FIGS LCA bushing but here are the results after driving approx 15k kms on them

i did drive about 3-4k kms on them without the FIGS LCA bushing so maybe it's from that, but seeing the wear on it makes we almost want to say that its not really working that well.

I'm putting the new tires on the front for the upcoming season and then I'll really see if there's an improvement from the bushings

 

Whole bunch of exhaust leaks, going to get a custom mid pipe made instead, getting rid of the secondary cats let's see how it sounds

 

Do you know the length of the part from header to cats? I have to do this portion as well. Mine also has leaks but not as bad as yours.