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My buddies scanner did pick up the same driver side o2 sensor fault cause i knocked it real bad on a speed bump. Replaced it with a Denso o2 sensor IIRC and the o2 sensor code disappeared but p0606 still remained and I've been trying to figure it out ever since. Maybe i have to replace the other one too even though its not throwing codes?
Maybe try measure its voltage on the other side to see if there are within the spec.
Not sure if anyone here is experiencing this aside from me but a couple of my rear bumper clips decided to let go and create a small gap on the side of my car.
Tried bending them down but it didn't work that well, so i got some 3m tape, cut it in half length wise and into small sections, then with some plastic pry tools i wedged the plastic latches down and shoved the 3m strip above it to hold it down. Works for the moment. Just a boring update for now just posted just in case anyone else might need a cheap fix
I highly recommend you check your alignment settings to see what your front toe is set to. Even with the FIGS LCA bushings, my front tires would still suffer from inner tread wear (though not as rapid). Once I learned to change the front toe setting 0.00, the inner tire wear became non existent on my Michelin tires.
So I just came back from an alignment and I got them to set the front toe values to 0 L/R. It was -0.05 L and 0.05 R before so I'm crossing my fingers hoping it works.
On a side note, surprise surprise the alignment guy told me my rear pads were getting low and they definitely are even though my fronts are still very meaty. I presume it's the caliper again... might consider a brake upgrade next year.
Rear pads toast, maybe due to more caliper seizing idk. Bought some Akebono Performance Ceramics for the rear to see how they perform. Rotor is running a bit hot on the inner ring so I'm gonna check it tomorrow.
Finally replaced my windshield moulding. Thing was dry rotted and fallig off on the highway. Idk what the precious owner did but there was a ridiculous amount of rubber and glue I had to remove... I hope it wasn't some sort of windshield seal
Great build, and great to see a modded IS in Ontario.
Hopefully I can try to keep up to your build. Been reading for a while and finally decided to join the forum and maybe start my own build thread
Also how is the ISF steering ecu holding up, really thinking of getting one.
Great build, and great to see a modded IS in Ontario.
Hopefully I can try to keep up to your build. Been reading for a while and finally decided to join the forum and maybe start my own build thread
Also how is the ISF steering ecu holding up, really thinking of getting one.
Thanks man, appreciate the kind words The ISF Steering ECU been good so far, no problems. Gives you a little bit more road feedback and tightens up the steering a bit making it more direct. One of the bigger benefits is that it changes "pwr" on the ECT switch to the ISF's sport mode which has some benefits for the traction control unit as it lets you slide a bit more and doesn't cut power so abruptly.
nope, why would it? It's just adjusting the process for feedback and input for steering as well as processing the traction loss differently.
I've been running the 08-10 ISF on my AWD no problems. For approximately 2 years now. If the ECU is brand new you will need to get it calibrated. The one I have was used, and never got it calibrated.
Got something small to add to the ride in a couple weeks. Else I've been playing around with new wheel options that I'll upload for community review later.
Except I've been delayed... hit a pot hole and now I need to order another upper control arm since the ball joint and arm have completely separated. I almost got 2 years out of it... why must these upper control arms cost so damn much... smh
I even had to dig up my old thread on upper control arms because I've forgotten all the info - RWD and AWD control arms are different, AWD control arms are symmetrical while RWD is side dependent, MikeFig82 concluded it was better to replace the whole arm rather than try to press a new ball joint into the socket.
Got something small to add to the ride in a couple weeks. Else I've been playing around with new wheel options that I'll upload for community review later.
Except I've been delayed... hit a pot hole and now I need to order another upper control arm since the ball joint and arm have completely separated. I almost got 2 years out of it... why must these upper control arms cost so damn much... smh
I even had to dig up my old thread on upper control arms because I've forgotten all the info - RWD and AWD control arms are different, AWD control arms are symmetrical while RWD is side dependent, MikeFig82 concluded it was better to replace the whole arm rather than try to press a new ball joint into the socket.
I got it to work with a press in, but it's not worth the hassle.
It would be great if some after markets where made. I'd prefer some megan racing one's. I installed some on my old GS400 5 years with no issues.
I got it to work with a press in, but it's not worth the hassle.
It would be great if some after markets where made. I'd prefer some megan racing one's. I installed some on my old GS400 5 years with no issues.
Yeah i was combing through the classifieds and remembered there were no AWD ones. I mean you could get a custom one from FIGS but at that price I'd be buying a lot of other things lol
I got it to work with a press in, but it's not worth the hassle.
It would be great if some after markets where made. I'd prefer some megan racing one's. I installed some on my old GS400 5 years with no issues.
Why do you say its not worth the hassle? I'm not saying I have the right tools but once you have them, they pop out, and press in pretty quickly.
I can't believe one failed in 2 years. Tough roads!!! From the old frame shop days I learned how to pop out the worst of the worst but those were usually lowers and with spring pushing down its a lot easier than pulling an upper arm just to put it back.
If you can minimize flex and get direct force applied, work moves pretty quickly.
just posted just in case anyone else might need a cheap fix
