The best part is that unless I'm mistaken, this is going to fit under the freakin hood and look bone stock from the outside.

Sure, there's going to be the sound of the SC working, but man...that and a fresh look for your car will have you turning heads left and right...and wetting panties.

 

Hey guys I am waiting on the new belt I ordered which will be 2 inches shorter and should allow some good tension. I wired up the boost gauge, changed all the fluids, now all I need to do is install the Cat convertor with wideband then I will attempt to turn her on.
I am very nervous about it I just dont want to have to take everything back off. I changed timing belt, waterpump, front seals, repaired driver side header, had to remove the steering rack, etc.
It has been 3 months since I started, so I am hoping for the best.

 

Good Luck man

 

Good luck man!

IF she doesn't start the first time you crank her, don't worry. Most things I do never work the first time.. and then after some frustration, and realizing that you forgot something really small and stupid, you get it to work.

I'm sure you'll get her going soon. Post results asap!

 

Thanks for all your support guys!!!
I finally had the ***** to turn her on today. She started right up with no difficulties at all. After about a minute of chugging along, the engine would pulse up and down from 600 to about a 1800 every10 seconds. It was the ECU for sure, as unpluging the MAF stopped it right away.
I then reset the ECU, filled her up with more coolant, then restarted her and she actually had a pretty normal idle. Unfortunetely I could not get any good readings from the wideband, maybe when I put the exhaust pipes back on it will read normal.
I reved it up a few times up to about 3500 and I could definetely hear a little whine going on. I hope to have some time 2morrow to fit the exhaust back on. It sounded like a 390 '68 mustang. It backfired when I reved her up quickly. Fuel pressure was at stock spec. and my darn electronic boost gauge is on the fritz, so no good readings there either.
I am using NGK cheapy plugs with a .035 gap. I research and found out that I would do well with them. What do you guys think?????
I will definetely have more 2morrow. Good night guys!!!!

 

Wow, amazing progress! Congratulations on some very promising results!

So with the MAF unplugged the car idles close to normal? What is your long term solution for this, because if I recall correctly keeping the MAF unplugged eventually leads to some weird things happening.

I'm not sure about the best gap size for plugs.. I'm sure somoene else will chime in. So next up it seems like you're going to attack the fuel delivery system?

When do you think you're going to try driving the car?

 

Going through the firewall is a really difficult task. Instead, I highly recommend going through the little grommet just under the driver's seat. Then run the wire through the little chassis track that runs the length of the car under the door sill, and then up into the engine compartment.

As long as you secure the wire at short intervals, there will be no sagging for it to get caught on something and ripped off.

I used this to run a tach sensor wire for a remote starter and it has been flawless.

 

Did you remove the exhaust in order to get the wideband O2 bung installed, or were there other reasons as well?

 

Thanks for the advice akxx. I ran it through the firewall by removing the glovebox, removing 2 bolts and cowl wire on engine side and using a metal hanger then taping the wires on it and pulling it back out. your idea seems a lot cleaner and I will do it on my next attempt.
Yes the exhaust was removed to install the 02 bung on the passenger cat and also had to remove the steering rack to get to the driver header which had a hairline crack which needed to be welded up.
I will post more results later tonight.

 

that is awesome! good luck man, and keep us updated. I want videos!

 

I got her running again, but I got the same issue. I am going to run a smoke test on the engine to see if I have any vacuum leaks, which I am assuming is the problem. Any good ideas on thee best method to find a leak???? It still surges in the same exact interval which makes me believe it is either the ECU struggling to adapt or a vacuum leak.

 

Atleast she runs! I'm not sure how to test for vacuum leaks, except by trying to hear them.

It is quite possible that the car's ECU can't adapt as well. Do you want to brave driving the car to see what that goes like?

 

The 1UZ is supposed to adapt perfectly to an M90 with 6psi with nothing additional necessary...besides, at idle, there is really nothing to adapt to, since there is no boost at idle.

 

You guys definitely know much more about this stuff than I do. I'm trying to learn I hope he resolves it soon!

 

lextreme's forums and the australian soarer owners forum are great places for researching