Awesome! Its great to see such fast progress.. at one point you're going to have to do a full writeup so those of us at home can follow along some day

BTW, how many miles does your car have?

 

mind telling us what you're fabricating yourself/having fabricated locally and what came with the kit?

 

x2!!!

This will be very useful info.

 

What have I needed to fabricate myself???
So far I have been required to do is:

1. Rerouted the Engine data connector to the rear of engine as well as the Idle Air Control Valve. easy.
2. Cut fuel lines at best points to attach rubber fuel lines to aid in ease installation. Fuel rails are a bit wider apart so I felt this was better than bending and molding the original pipes.easy.
3.In the process of rerouting coolant and vacuum hoses all over the engine bay.easy.
4.Tap barbs into the manifold and into the rear intake for vacuum/boost. easy.
5.Brought a cheap intake tube from autozone and tapped more barbs into it for powersteering and Idle air control valve. This connects the throttle body to the MAF sensor.easy.
6.I used lextreme's PCV valve trick to add a PCV on the passenger side of engine too. Tough to fit the hoses into eachother.
7.Made up a bracket to support the throttle cables and they were a real stretch to get them to reach, so hopefully the transmission shifting wont be too harsh. Difficult and frustrating.
8.I had to purchase a bunch of Orings to fit on the bypass valve to secure vacuum. O-ring # is 127. simple.
9.Grinded down the side of the manifold to squeze it in between the heads. headache.
10.Grinded down the bottom edge of the manifold to fit it over the by pass pipe and air pump pipe(cali cars only).headache.
11.The Manifold bolts that came with the kit were a bit long, so I had to cut them down about 1/4".simple.
12.Made a support for the front of the blower(washers), so that the drive belt pressure would not be able to pull the rear of the blower upward.easy.
13.The only obstacle for me is the drive belt pulleys. I am currently planning on having ScottURnot fabricate the pulleys for me when he has the time. Difficult.
14. Then I will have to figure out which way to run the top radiator hose. If I have to I will delete the engine fan for the electricals to clear up space...then all I would need to do is flip around the hose, so that it will clear the drive belt path. Difficult.
15.EGR delete. with a resistor to rid of the engine light. not fun at all I actually went under the car to remove and block off the EGR pipe with out removing the tranny. You may get away with just leaving the pipe at the rear of the manifold, but I am a neat freak and removed the damn thing.

The only tough parts are the EGR delete, throttle cables bracket and the pulleys. ScottURnot is the man to go to for help here. It seems like a bunch of work, but it ain't that bad. Supercharging is possible and with more people trying it we can eventually have a "simple" write up for it.

Much thanks to Andrew at Richwood Technologies for the great product and service. ScottURnot from the SC forums has helped me a lot on this. He is a real genious. Thanks to all you guys for all your support. Good Luck!!!

 

Front shot of Manifold.

 

you had to grind the manifold to fit between the heads

always thought it was full plug n play manifold but i guess some minor "finessing" it to fit would required.

 

Damn dude, you know your ****. Keep it up

 

Hey guys,
I wanted to get some input from you about the type of oil I should use for a supercharged '93 1UZFE with about 155xxx on the clock. More pics coming soon.
Thanks

 

You do realize that with this question you're opening up an entire can of worms that will take a life of its own and would likely require a separate thread? Motor oil choices fight with 'politics' and 'religion' for most contentious topics.

With that said, I think "Synthetic 5W-30" *insert favorite brand here* will be the closest thing to a consensus you'll get around here.

 

yea its personal preference imo but i use mobil 1 motor oil.

 

Thanks for the input... I currently use Royal Purple and it is the thickest weight they carry 20w-50. I use that during the hot summer months we get down here, but I plan on dropping down to 5w-30 or 10w30 Mobil 1 or royal purple. Would any of you forsee any problems with dropping down the weight drastically? I have changed the front seals just recently (Crank and Cams) + the compression is perfect at all 8 cylinders.

 

There should be no problem in jumping straight down to 5W-30. Varying viscosities tend to be quite compatible, so it's not like mixing different coolants or tranny fluids. Besides, you're not seeing the extreme temp swings like in Colorado (95+ in summer to -30 in winter).

5W-30 should also net some improved economy and possibly a bit more power as well, though it wouldn't be any level of power that's discernible to the seat-of-the-pants dyno. And sure as heck not as much as 6psi of M90!!

Royal Purple is really top-shelf stuff, although with regular changes, I'm not quite sure what it does that a mainstream top-quality synthetic couldn't provide (mobil 1, etc).

 

Thanks for the great answer akxx... I will either go with Mobil 1 or R.P. 5w-30. Here is one more pic before I hit the sack. I had to mess with the Idle Air Control Valve to get the hose to not kink up when I routed it near the firewall. More details on that 2morrow. Enjoy.

 

what year thunderbird did ur M90 come from? iirc there was a mid-model change in the configuration

no plans for air to air IC?

 

Hey drifter....It is an early model (oval inlet) charger 90-93. I went cheap here hoping everything would work...then I will jump to a Magna Charger or twin screw with engine upgrade. I plan on going with water injection or an intercooler that Andrew is making at the moment. He says it will fit perfectly inside the manifold he made. Cant wait to see if and how she runs once I am done.