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My local deal is a swindler... The prices I printed were from their online site...
Thankfully, the dealer from AZ that I ordered from last time is much more reasonable...
I won't have access to a lift until 8/10, so that's when I'm scheduled to change out the rear differential fluid. I don't know if I will drive the car in the meantime, since there's no point in risking driving with an unknown amount of fluid remaining.
I have one more issue that I need to resolve, as well. I need to do some research before I ask for help.
The plugs and washers have arrived. I'm ready to swap out the fluid on next Saturday.
After washing the car, there is a small amount of water that pools in the trunk. It didn't end up being the seal/molding or the trim. After reading about others' experiences on the forum, it seems that it may be the rubber plugs inside of the trunk that are allowing water to enter. I'll have to replace them and find out if they are truly the culprit.
I was presented with a dead battery today, so I purchased an AGM.
This was my first time changing the fluid on a rear differential, and it was surprisingly easy. I'd say it's easier than even an engine oil change. I was too excited to change the fluid, and forgot my phone inside the car, so no pictures. The initial fluid that followed the drain plug was a disgusting gel-like goop... It was the most repulsive fluid I've ever seen, personally. There was quite a bit of metal shavings on the magnet, as well. The squeeze pouches for the fluid is a game changer, compared to pumping fluid in. I also cleaned as much as I could with brake cleaner around the differential.
There were no leaks around the transmission, so it seems that I performed the service correctly.
Then, I cruised and hooned for 200 miles. I'm pleased that maintenance is finally up to par. Today was the first time driving in manual mode since the transmission fluid change. The shifts are much smoother, compared to before.
I'll be lifting the car tomorrow to check the undercarriage once more. In the meantime, I'm considering on replacing just the front tires with the stock sizing. I want to learn how to dismount, mount, and balance wheels, and this will be the opportune moment to do so. It's going to cost ~$470 for two Continental ExtremeContact DWS06+ in 224/40ZR19. I still have yet to order the RR Racing USRS.
I'll take some pictures tomorrow of the inside wear of the front tires. I don't know how many miles are remaining in them until the cords begin to show.
Well, it's difficult to discern how much oil has leaked after 250 miles. I will need to find a chemical that can clean up the mess, and then pressure wash it off.
This is the driver's side front tire:
This is the passenger side front tire:
The inside of the passenger's side tire is wearing out faster than the driver's side. I don't know how many miles to expect that these tires will last.
Now, that I have peace of mind with the leaks, for the most part, I will drive the IS F more spiritedly. I will most likely lift the car again next weekend to inspect the rear differential again. If there isn't excessive oil splattered around, I may decide to just swap out the muffler delete regardless.
As imperfect as the car currently is, it drives superbly well. I'd like to prepare it for a lap around the Tail of the Dragon in the next couple of months.
Yesterday, I ordered a TPMS sensor, and Vland smoked taillights. We'll find out if I can manage to resolve the TPMS light without having to go to the local dealership. When I purchased the car, it came with some spare parts, and brakes were part of it. The current equipped brake pads are getting low, and the rotors have a thick lip. I'm going to purchase the remaining items, and I intend to replace all of the brake pads and rotors before winter.
Just replaced the trunk drain plugs. I'll swap in the Vland taillights when they arrive, and then take the car through a carwash. We'll find out if the issue has been resolved only then.
The fitment of the Vland taillights is suboptimal... However, the aesthetic upgrade is stellar. The two pieces of the taillights almost rub when the trunk is closed.
The TPMS is scheduled to be delivered today. I most likely won't be able to install it until next weekend, though.
I now have all of the parts necessary in order to replace the brake pads and rotors. I'll replace them in the coming months.
As much as I'd love to take the IS F to the Tail of the Dragon, it doesn't seem likely that I'll get it up to par for the 1,100-1,200 mile roundtrip before winter. Although, the idea of taking it to Ohio's version of Tail of the Dragon just struck me now. That's feasible to do even right now.
I may delete the muffler regardless of the rear differential leak. I haven't committed fully just yet, though.
When I pull the car out, either today or tomorrow, we'll find out if water still leaks in the trunk after washing the car. I'll also take a couple of pictures with the new taillights aesthetic.
I've barely driven the car since I purchased it. Since I've decided to keep it, the goal for 2025 is to drive as much as possible. I've driven the ZDX for over 4x more miles than I did the IS F, in a shorter duration.
It's remarkable how well the car drives right now. The transmission is extremely smooth, compared to before the fluid change. I've been pushing the limits harder now that maintenance is essentially up to par. Once I replace all of the brake pads and rotors, it will basically drive like a new car. I like the aesthetic change that the taillights brought. I'm eager to find out how they'll look tonight.
I cruised for about 200 miles today. I'm excited to begin modifying it. The muffler delete should make the experience even more enticing. I'm pleased with the difference that the taillights made.
Saturday, I'll be replacing the malfunctioned TPMS, and then attempting to program the new sensor to the car. Then, I need to replace the clips on the passenger door's trim. Lastly, I need to remove the front bumper again and figure out what the issue with the passenger side DRL light is. I anticipate that once I unplug the headlight, and replug it, the issue will disappear. By Saturday, the remaining order of clips and bolts will arrive, and I'll just freshen up what I can with these small tidbits.
I still need to order the RR Racing USRS, and determine how soon I need front tires for the stock rims. I also need to figure out the helicoil size necessary for the brake calipers, just in case I need a kit when I replace the brake pads and rotors.
There is no sane reason to expect the threads in the caliper will be a problem. Besides, Helicoils are a poor fix for something like that. I would Timesert it for sure. My experience with Timesert is vastly better than Helicoils.
There is no sane reason to expect the threads in the caliper will be a problem. Besides, Helicoils are a poor fix for something like that. I would Timesert it for sure. My experience with Timesert is vastly better than Helicoils.
Aren't the calipers aluminum? This is a rust belt car, and the paint on the calipers is treacherous. I had to use several helicoils on my STi's Brembo calipers when I last replaced the brake rotors and pads. I assumed the IS F's situation would be similar.
Also, a side note. I need to purchase tires for my TL, and there seems to be an adequate deal. So, I'm contemplating on purchasing tires for the IS F, as well. I'm still researching on the proper sizing in the meantime. I don't know whether I'll purchase the rear tires just yet, since I don't need them any time soon.
I wouldn't buy those sizes for the IS F. I ran 245/35/19 and 275/30/19 on the 2008 wheels because they're close to the OEM size. Changing the diameter of the tires usually has a negative impact on handling, so it's best to try and stay close to the original diameter. No 235 or 265 can do this.
My winter wheels have DWS06s in the OEM sizes. They work just fine. In the summer I run Michelin PS4S in 255/35/19 front and 275/35/19 rear on a set of 2014 wheels that are 1/2 inch wider than the 2008 wheels.
