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I ran 245/35/19 and 275/30/19 on the 2008 wheels because they're close to the OEM size.
How was the ride/handling compromise of these sizes vs OEM sizes 225/40/19 and 255/35/19 on the 2008 wheels? I was pleasantly surprised by how much the 275/35/18's improved braking and handling balance (Michelin Pilot AS3 in OEM sizes vs Conti DWS06+ in -1) but certainly lost some transient steering precision due to squishier sidewall. Now considering whether to put summer tires on the 2008 wheels or a new set of Conti's on the 18's.
I finally got around to completing this task. All of the clips were intact... I removed the residue, which seemed to be similar to super glue, and the molding trim seems to fit correctly now. We'll find out if it holds.
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
The pinion shaft seal leak on the diff is no small adventure. If you are unfamiliar with setting up a differential, I would not recommend doing this at home. The FSM shows removing the entire differential, and completely disassembling it to service the front seal. Doing this without removing the differential means you will need to make some assumptions about tightening the pinion shaft nut so the preload on the pinion shaft bearings is in the right range. If you get it wrong, you'll be looking for a new differential.
There doesn't appear to be a leak from the rear differential anymore... Perhaps, the leak was from one of the plugs, and it was over such a prolonged period of time that it eventually coated the entire rear end of the car?
I was helped with replacing the front passenger's side TPMS earlier. I will attempt to program it in a few hours.
I will be in need of new tires very soon. I'm considering putting the square wheel setup on hold, and purchasing 245/35R19 front tires, and 275/30R19 rear tires, for the OEM rims.
The brakes will last longer than the tires, however, I will be replacing them before storing the car over winter.
The scanner wasn't able to register the TPMS yesterday. I will try another device next weekend.
I removed the front bumper to try and remedy the passenger's side DRL today, however, it seems that the light has malfunctioned. Unplugging, cleaning the pins, and replugging didn't solve the issue. Since the low beams, high beams, and turn signals work, I won't be replacing the headlights. I'll just drive the way it is.
I inspected the cabin air filter, and it seems that I didn't replace it when I purchased the car last year.
There was a local listing on a set of wheels that I wasn't certain if they'd fit the IS F. The forum suggests that the wheels should fit. I took the gamble and purchased them regardless. If they don't end up fitting, I'll have to resell them. From my research, there isn't an IS F online with this set of rims. The tires are Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02, the exact summer performance tires that I've been desiring. I'm actually more excited to test the grip of the tires, than the aesthetic transformation that the rims will offer. The rims are powder coated a custom color, and they are absolutely stunning. I need to order hubcentric rings and lug nuts. I anticipate that I'll have them mounted in the next two weeks, or so. After I mount them, and test drive to ensure that there truly is no rubbing, then I'll take some proper pictures.
I will weigh both the stock wheels, and the aftermarket wheels, when I swap them out. From reading, it seems that the stock rims weigh about: 23 lb for the fronts, and 27 lb for the rears. The DWS06 tires in OEM sizing weigh about: 22 lb for the fronts, and 25 lb for the rears.
Stock front wheels weight: 45 lb
Stock rear wheels weight: 52 lb
Total = 194 lb
The Enkei Raijin weigh about 21 lb in 18x9.5" +35. The Sport 02 tires weight about 26 lb in 255/40R18.
Raijin wheels weight: 47 lb
Total = 188 lb
While it's not exactly a 20 lb difference as I initially anticipated for the NT03M rims, the grip should be extraordinary. We will find out the true weight difference soon enough.
Thankfully, I didn't have to go to the local Lexus dealership. A dealership came to me, actually. $1,000 in dealership equipment managed to remedy the TPMS situation. I will mount the new wheels soon, and be forced to live with the TPMS light all over again...
I will weigh both the stock wheels, and the aftermarket wheels, when I swap them out. From reading, it seems that the stock rims weigh about: 23 lb for the fronts, and 27 lb for the rears. The DWS06 tires in OEM sizing weigh about: 22 lb for the fronts, and 25 lb for the rears.
Stock front wheels weight: 45 lb
Stock rear wheels weight: 52 lb
Total = 194 lb
The Enkei Raijin weigh about 21 lb in 18x9.5" +35. The Sport 02 tires weight about 26 lb in 255/40R18.
Raijin wheels weight: 47 lb
Total = 188 lb
While it's not exactly a 20 lb difference as I initially anticipated for the NT03M rims, the grip should be extraordinary. We will find out the true weight difference soon enough.
Here are the weights that I captured for the OEM wheels:
Stock front wheels weight: ~46 lb
Stock rear wheels weight: ~50 lb
Total = 192 lb
The tires are worn, so that may potentially alter the results?
Here is the weight for the Enkei Raijin wheels:
Raijin wheels weight: ~48 lb
Total = 192 lb
Even though the weight is the same, the car feels completely different driving normally. I probably won't get around to testing the tires to their full capacity until next weekend.
The roads where I can test handling are closed due to repaving, so I wasn't able to push the tires yet. Even with these tires, traction control still interrupts WOT's. I expected that the best summer performance tire would grip more optimally, not still be limited by the 255mm width. I love the way the car looks right now, though. These are the newest pictures:
255s are better in the front. Rears should be 275 or 295 if you have the right wheels for these sizes. 275 does not light VSC at WOT unless the conditions are particularly slippery.
I'll be replacing the remotes' batteries since I don't know when they were last replaced.
The forum suggests that these are the most optimal settings for the sound system. It's still subpar, though...
This is my oil level after 2,200 miles. It would appear that roughly 1.2 quarts were chugged. I'll obtain a sample during the next oil change to send to Blackstone Labs for a UOA.
I scheduled an appointment on 10/26 to learn how to replace the brake pads and rotors. I'll research in the meantime on the procedure and the torque specs necessary.
The parts pertaining to the water pump, pulleys, and belt scenario have shipped and are scheduled to arrive on Tuesday. We'll find out if I end up replacing them before storing the car for winter.
I haven't driven the car in a couple of weeks. The past couple of days, the golden sunrises and sunsets were extra astounding. Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera with me to capture the ZDX. I'll attempt to pull the IS F out today. I found a new spot that showcases sunrises with less obstruction, so I'll have to experiment with the location.
There is no sane reason to expect the threads in the caliper will be a problem. Besides, Helicoils are a poor fix for something like that. I would Timesert it for sure. My experience with Timesert is vastly better than Helicoils.
I replaced the brake pads and rotors today. This was the first time I've done this task myself, and it ended up being quite easy. The caliper bolts loosened out fairly easily, and you were correct, I didn't end up needing the taps. This car has much less corrosion than my STi had, though. So, I used brand new bolts on the calipers and I expect that they'll loosen out easily the next time I replace the rotors.
Thus far, I've replaced the transmission filter, transmission oil, rear differential oil, and now the brake pads and rotors. I should be able to replace the serpentine belt, tensioner, water pump, and coolant, as well then. That'll be a project for next spring.
Today, I intend to cruise the remaining 250-300 miles to cross the 200,000 milestone.