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It really depends on what you're after. The 8W7 is flat-out the best sounding 8" subwoofer I've ever heard. Period. However, the w6v2 line has a lot of improvements that lend it toward a more "SQ" related sound as compared to the previous W6 drivers.
If you're dead-set on JL and can sacrifice close to 1 ft^3 for an 8" woofer, I'd go with that driver over the 10w6v2. However, keep in mind that we have big cars and we need as much oomph as possible so a larger diameter driver has a lot of advantages.
It really depends on what you're after. The 8W7 is flat-out the best sounding 8" subwoofer I've ever heard. Period. However, the w6v2 line has a lot of improvements that lend it toward a more "SQ" related sound as compared to the previous W6 drivers.
If you're dead-set on JL and can sacrifice close to 1 ft^3 for an 8" woofer, I'd go with that driver over the 10w6v2. However, keep in mind that we have big cars and we need as much oomph as possible so a larger diameter driver has a lot of advantages.
I agree - you have to give a bit more info as to what you want and what kind of music you're listening to. A great 8" sub (such as this one) will give a kick drum that "snap", but it's not going to drop to the absolute bottom like a 12" sub will. 10" is a good medium, and the V2 is a decent sounding sub. It's not as accurate as I would prefer, but the V3 is a bit closer. I think if you take into account the size of the cabin, you're not going any smaller than a 10". I know for certain that I wouldn't be, and I listen to a good variety of music so I like a musical sub not a one note wonder.
Big Mack you are saying the 8 would be better but suggest I do not go lower then a 10 with my cabin size?
No, I said an 8" that is good quality will give a kick drum some snap, but that they won't drop as low as a good 12" and that a 10" would be the smallest I would go with.
I think its going to come down to how much space I want to give up, would like to have my trunk free maybe a box that fits up twards the back of the backseat
Don't forget that the w6's only come in dual 4ohms and the w7 is single 3ohms. If you have an amp like JL's slash series where the power output is the same no matter what impedance (ohms) is then you'll be fine. However some mono amps make the most power at a 1ohm load so by going with a w7 on these amps you won't be getting the full power.
ex. The sub channel on my eD nine.5 makes ~700w at 1ohms. That's probably about the ideal amount of power for a 8w7. However since it's a 3ohm sub my amp is giving it only about 350-400w.
Don't forget that the w6's only come in dual 4ohms and the w7 is single 3ohms. If you have an amp like JL's slash series where the power output is the same no matter what impedance (ohms) is then you'll be fine. However some mono amps make the most power at a 1ohm load so by going with a w7 on these amps you won't be getting the full power.
ex. The sub channel on my eD nine.5 makes ~700w at 1ohms. That's probably about the ideal amount of power for a 8w7. However since it's a 3ohm sub my amp is giving it only about 350-400w.
First off, the 10w6V2 comes in either dual 4 or dual 2 ohm versions. Also, the ED is rated at 600 @ 1 ohm according to their spec. Even if it does throw 350W, that's plenty for controlling the sub. The difference between 350W and 700W is barely audible at 3dB, and truly only in an anechoic chamber not a car environment.
I would still stick with a 10" as the smallest sub option. As capable as the 8W7 is, it's not enough, IMO, for a larger car environment.
There isn't a lot of space between the hole and the rear windshield for you to shoehorn in the sub. If you can't fit it in from up top, the next best thing to do is to build a baffle and mount the sub from underneath. Be careful though because the sub is heavy. The rear deck is not that rigid. You may even lose output due to vibration.
It really depends on what you're after. The 8W7 is flat-out the best sounding 8" subwoofer I've ever heard. Period. However, the w6v2 line has a lot of improvements that lend it toward a more "SQ" related sound as compared to the previous W6 drivers.
If you're dead-set on JL and can sacrifice close to 1 ft^3 for an 8" woofer, I'd go with that driver over the 10w6v2. However, keep in mind that we have big cars and we need as much oomph as possible so a larger diameter driver has a lot of advantages.
He took the words out of my mouth. If you can, go listen to an 8w7, it will hit tighter and more accurate than the 10w6. It will take 600w RMS all day. If you are going to choose the w6v2 series, I'd suggest the 12w6v2. It's one of the best SQ 12" out there. Regardless of which JL you use, the box is very important on how the sub will sound. Also, JL subs are power underated. When I first had my 10w7 back then, I paired it with the 500/1 but really it didn't sound up to the hype. Later then I realized that 500w was not enough. It was the 1000/1 that made my 10w7 sounds a whole lot better. My dream setup would be 3 8w7 but that box would take up my whole trunk.
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