Tezrex,Is this task a remove existing ML components (subwoofer(s) and 1800 watt amp) and replace with the Audio-control converter, subwoofers and new amplifier or did you add to existing system ?

 

Were you able to self install or use a pro?

Do you have to open up the dash to get to wire harness?

Do you use the remote for the Audiocontrol?

As mentioned by the other poster, is it a drop-in replacement for the ML sub?

Are any modifications required to the existing sub mounting to fit the JL Sub?

If mods, are they damaging or can you put the ML sub back in if selling the vehicle?

It looks like retail for Audio Control is about $100, the JL 12w6 at $900 plus and amp about $400 to $600.

 

audio control just taps into factory sub wiring. Factory sub still works alongside aftermarket, but I believe it can be disabled as well, as long as you have lc2i “pro”.

it’s A LOT of bass. What I installed is way more than needed for 99.9% of people. I’d recommend the lc2i pro, with a 10-12” JL audio W3 and a 500w RMS amp if looking to spend less than I did. My setup is capable of shaking adjacent buildings.

the audio control remote base **** is essential.

you could replace ML sub, but nothing is going to sound great in that plastic box, especially something with more watts.

Gotta remember the ML amp is 835w, which is LIKELY peak watts, not RMS watts. Divided by 12 speakers. So the factory ML sub might only be 100w RMS, nobody really knows.

very easy to put vehicle back to stock if necessary

there’s options, the lc2i pro is key to whatever route you choose. I’ll try to post pics later.

 

audio control allows you to add in to existing system without any modifications. I basically have 2 subs now

 

 

@Tezrex Thank you for the photos - awesome setup!!!

I'll bet that sub will pressurize your interior. I'm a bassaholic myself (two PSA TV42s - dual 21" B&C iPAL drivers in each sub in a smallish theater - enough to crack sheetrock seams or worse if not careful).

However, the TX is my wife's ride so I'll have to dial back a bit. My end goal is to have a "reasonable" amount of bass that still allows conversation in the vehicle. As you mentioned, the 10" is probably a better fit for me.

I love the AudioControl LC2i converter - I didn't know that there was a device that could take line level and convert it for use with a pre-amp. That's sweet.

You brought some serious power back to your amp looking at the gauge of your DC power to that amp and everything looks very clean. Nice install!

I've got to come up with an idea for a smaller enclosure or something a bit more discrete as your setup won't pass the wife acceptance factor in my case. She uses the back cargo area a lot and we use the TX for long trips with lots of suitcases and gear. It's been a long time since I've done anything with car audio so I'll have to look around for ideas for something smaller or low profile. The great thing is that AudioControl device will make it possible to make changes and add a sub a lot easier.

Can you use the AudioControl in somewhat of a "Set It and Forget It" without the remote if you listen at a similar volume range most of the time?

Thank you for posting all the photos - I'm sure they will help a lot of people who check out this thread.

 

you might try an aftermarket 8” in the factory location, and just dynamat the hell out of the plastic box, inside and out.

The audiocontrol is great. It also restores bass the factory system rolls of at high volumes. Of course nothing will beat an aftermarket DSP with customized crossovers, which is my next step.

I ran 0 gauge, in preparation for another amp or 2 for my front stage speakers. If just adding a sub amp, you could go 4 gauge.

I’d highly recommend the bass ****. I find myself adjusting frequently.

JL can’t be beat for sound quality / sound pressure combination. But there are better brands if you want purely sound quality. The guys over at diymobileaudio.com forums are a great resource. Lots of SQ enthusiasts there.

 

The TX is my wife’s too and her trunk is always filled so anything that took up any real estate back there was not happening. I had a shop switch out the stock sub for a new one and then hooked up an amp to power the new sub and I’m beyond impressed. I still can’t believe a little 8” in a factory enclosure can do this.

 

I'd like a bit more bottom end, but want to preserve the cargo space and 3rd row functionality. This is interesting to me. I've got two JL 10" subs in my Corvette and have been in the AV business for decades, so I know what good bass is, but I don't want to give up the room for sub enclosures in the TX.

 

Being in the industry for that long, you probably wont be as impressed as me but you're also not able to achieve that level of sound quality without giving up trunk space for a sub enclosure of some sort or some serious custom fab work in the existing spot. The nice thing about our set up is we have a bass **** just under the steering wheel so if the kids are in the car we can keep it moderate but when its just me or my wife we can turn up the bass.

 

I finally got around to testing out some stuff and found that something that's always been true with any decent Hifi is true with this ML system: the quality of the source material makes all the difference. I'd been disappointed with the bottom end and overall sound quality being kind of closed in with no real sound stage, but was only listening to the built in XM or content from my phone over Bluetooth. I ordered up a USB C 512GB flash drive and loaded it up with Hi Res FLAC files and high quality CD rips. The difference in sound quality and bass is amazing. Now it sounds like a decent Hifi. The bottom end is much fuller and the entire system opened up, even at moderate volumes. Compressed formats like XM or Apple Music are just missing a lot of information. Use a source that has all the info and the ML system will deliver it. Does it sound as good as the Focal/Alpine/JL Audio system in my Corvette? No. But it sounds pretty good and didn't cost $15K or compromise any of the utility of the TX's storage space, which is important to me as I haul a lot of stuff for work (sales rep samples).

 

I found that if I fade back 3 clicks the sound quality and separation is superior. Try 2, 3 and then 4 clicks fade backward and see if you likey.

 

you are talking about biasing the sound towards the rear of the vehicle versus being neutral in the middle of the sound stage?

 

Yup. I agree that the front center is way dominate at the default neutral fade setting. I'm not an audiophile but I totally agree with the unimpressive sound quality opinions stated, and I like the sound so much better when I can hear more of all the other speakers. Perhaps the lack of sound stage discussed by others can be compensated for by adding more of the other speaker's contribution to the front row occupants. The volume has to go up, but it does sound better to me and then I feel better about paying for the upgrade too. Hope others try the fade backward and comments.

 

while I agree with you, most of the speakers are in the front and when you bias the fader to the rear is sounds a little more balanced, it then just doesn't sound any better overall...