That looks great man! Do you think the mechanic could possibly start mass producing this? I'd be interested if the price is right.

 

Turned out really good. Would like to see something for the front also.

 

didnt do anything for the front, for some reason the front turned out ok after the drop.By ok I mean not execive wear like the back but still some - camber. I went a whole year without changing the front, only fliping them. The back I had to go trou a second set for the year, a set only lasted me about 5-6 months even with flipping them. I'll post the pics of how bad the camber was tomorrow and you'll see what I mean.

 

Thats strange because your car is not lowered very much at all, and you go throught tyres that quick..

You either have crappy tyres or the wheel alignment shop that you went to is pretty hopeless.. They should be adjusting your toe, just a tiny little bit.

 

I just dont understand how toe adjustment can fix camber. If your wheel has a - camber it will lean inwards making it run in the inside, all the toe does is the direction in wich that wheel is turning. So, even is your toe is - or + or whatever it is the tire is still gonna run in the inside.

 

^ It doesn't fix it but with your drop your within factory tolerance. So if your TOE is adjusted correctly then you "should" have no issues. Either your TOE was not set correctly or aggressive driving in the turns would be my guess.

 

you have to understand the vehicle and suspension dynamics in order to understand how toe will help or hurt tire wear. i will try to play back from my memory here (and hope i am remembering it correctly).

when a car move forward, the wheels will tend to flare "out". so for example if your wheels have zero toe, mean | |, then when you move forward, it will become \ /. on the other hand, if your wheels are toe in to begin with like / \, then when you move forward, it will become more parallel | |

and you already know how camber works. on factory vehicles, they almost always have negative cambers AND slight toe in as spec. if you use your two hands to illustrate yourself, if the spec is done right, what happens is when moving forward, the wheels will toe out a bit, and combined with the camber, it will create more or less of an even wear on the tires

when you have a lot of negative cambers, the factory toe setting won't be able to help anymore. coz' even with the slight toe out when going forward, the extra negative camber will continue to wear out the inside faster than outside.

the way to correct it (within limit)? put in more toe-in. this cause the wheels to not flare out as much as factory setting, compensating the extra negative wear.

on the other hand, if you have extra negative camber, and you accidentally put a toe out, then when going forward, you will be completely scraping the inside of the tires and wear out the inside very very fast

in fact, any good alignment shop will tell you to certain extend, toe setting is even more important than camber setting when it comes to wear. a wrong toe setting will wear out tires way fast.

hope this explains how toe and camber go hand in hand

 

Something you guys might be interested in...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...amber-kit.html

Front camber kit for the 2IS (assuming the front upper control arms are the same for the 3GS)... There's not much info yet, except that it's made by SPC/Eibach, and is apparently available in Europe. No part number...

 

on my 06awd there is a camber adjustment on the front. the lower control has an adjustable bolt.

 

This is interesting. The 2IS does have pretty much identical suspension as the 3GS so these things should work. I'd love to get my hands on a set. I snooped around that site and looked for a solution for the rear but to no avail.

 

front should have no problem as standard adjustability is enough to correct any wear, would be a waste of money.

 

AWD has this and RWD does not.

I'm working on something and should have pics soon with info

 

In your above pic....that new adjustable upper tension arm (right side)...you got a ball joint at one end in the foreground....was that originally a fork-style end?

Below is a pic from a 2IS rear susp arms...i understand the 3GS and 2IS susp are similar....see how the OEM upper tension arm is a fork-style end?

 

^Yes its a fork style end. I just received my parts yesterday.

I will post more info once I have time to test fit them and confirm they work.

 

Cool...what parts did u buy? What brand? Pics?