Replacing a caliper difficulty?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Replacing a caliper difficulty?
My front drivers side caliper has been jammed up for quite some time so I've basically been raking with 3 brakes, I think it's caused the opposite tire to wear faster though, Lexus wanted like 4xx$ for a new caliper, I've never done this before is it fairly easy to do, I'd really rather not pay that. Thank you
#3
jammed up like stuck out? the only tire wear a brake will really cause is if the tire is straight locked up. check that alignment. but anyways replacing a caliper is pretty simple pull the caliper off the bridge don't let it hang on the brake hose because you can damage the hose.
- have new caliper ready for install
-remove banjo bolt from old caliper (might be easier to brake loose when its all on the bridge)
- discard old caliper
- make sure there are two copper washers on the banjo bolt on each side of the brake hose
-bolt banjo bolt into new caliper the same way it came off
- check brake fluid level in the master reassemble caliper onto bridge and then bleed brakes
also a tip prolly best to replace both calipers on same axle so its all new and good and depending on your pads replace those too since seized calipers tend to destroy pads.
- have new caliper ready for install
-remove banjo bolt from old caliper (might be easier to brake loose when its all on the bridge)
- discard old caliper
- make sure there are two copper washers on the banjo bolt on each side of the brake hose
-bolt banjo bolt into new caliper the same way it came off
- check brake fluid level in the master reassemble caliper onto bridge and then bleed brakes
also a tip prolly best to replace both calipers on same axle so its all new and good and depending on your pads replace those too since seized calipers tend to destroy pads.
#4
would be a good idea to replace both calipers if you're doing it it's fairly simple take a look to see if there's any DIY's on the board but basically after you remove the tire your move too big bolts on the backside of the caliper I believe they're 17 millimeters in size Once uve remove that it's fairly straightforward. has guardrail said make sure you put it on something to wear its not hanging by the hose.remove the bolt that attaches the hose and clamp the hose to make sure no extra air goes into the line.honestly for the $400 you probably can do both front calipers decent rotors and pads Centrix make something decent for you to use. I suggest you do all of it and not have the headache of dealing with one side different than the other. And trust me I speak from experience as I've had the same issues in the past it was only fixed when all of it was changed out both front calipers and rotors and pads.of course unless you're just going to sell the car something but if you're going to keep it I would change all of it and not be worried about it for the next 50 thousand miles.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
THANK YOU, happy to get some good responses, have you used aftermarket calipers or pads, I figured I'd just buy the oem ones from the dealer I'm guess close to 200$ each for the calipers
#6
Driver
iTrader: (7)
Just go with re-manufactured calipers from an auto parts store. They are OEM calipers with rebuilt seals and cheaper than the dealer. I've had no problems going this route and sometimes they are lifetime warranty. A quality aftermarket pad will also serve you well although I don't think the OEM ones are too spendy.
Like the guys above said, be sure and replace both sides at the same time.
Like the guys above said, be sure and replace both sides at the same time.
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#9
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I would have just bought a caliper rebuild kit (under $40 for both sides)...you just need to replace the piston seals, boots, etc....vs. buying a new caliper. As for brake pads, I'd stick with OEM, but if there are options for ceramic pads (low dust), I'd choose them in a heartbeat.
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