Alot of information I learned in reading 10 pages of this thread! I definitely need to get these new bushings as well since I have alot of tire wear in the front only from just being lowered on h&r springs. So caster can be adjusted how again? Could someone go into detail because mine had a small Fender bender on driver side and I think my caster may be off a bit.
Alot of information I learned in reading 10 pages of this thread! I definitely need to get these new bushings as well since I have alot of tire wear in the front only from just being lowered on h&r springs. So caster can be adjusted how again? Could someone go into detail because mine had a small Fender bender on driver side and I think my caster may be off a bit.
You will love these bushings, we got them on our '09 is250RWD and have extremely good front tire wear. Also,depending on how much you dropped the car you might look at Fig's front and rear "Camber Adjusters" which are nice too. we have our at stock suspension with neg,- .4/5 deg.s front / zero toe with the rear set at zero toe and neg. -.3 deg.s. After 3 yrs of use we are on track to getting possible 45-55K based on the tread readings from our tire store.
Got the Figs front LCA bushings installed about 1.5 years ago, and with CA weather turning "cold" recently, the bushings are groaning/squeaking badly. (Front tire wear is definitely a non-issue now.)
How does one "easily" reapply the grease?
I don't see how one can just remove the LCA nut and push out the inner sleeve to clean and regrease the bushings "inner crosshatches?"
Won't the weight of the car on the LCA Spindle prevent the inner sleeve to move?
And even if one is able to "push out the inner sleeve," won't the LCA spindle be in the way of accessing the inner crosshatches?
Thanks for anyone's input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FIGS
I would agree on traditional poly bushings, but not ours. Between the retention features on the tube interface and the compatible synthetic grease we see very long service intervals between greasing and we have yet to regrease ours installed on the IS-F with 75K miles, of which 50K or so on the bushings with many track days.
By contrast the poly bushings in the Hotchkis sway bar required seasonal greasing as it just pushes out each time pressure is applied. In any case, the bushings from Superpro are unique in this regard and one of the reasons we chose them as a partner.
Mike
Got the Figs front LCA bushings installed about 1.5 years ago, and with CA weather turning "cold" recently, the bushings are groaning/squeaking badly. (Front tire wear is definitely a non-issue now.)
Thanks for anyone's input.
About to have these installed. Do you have an estimate on how many miles you drove in those 1.5 years?
Got the Figs front LCA bushings installed about 1.5 years ago, and with CA weather turning "cold" recently, the bushings are groaning/squeaking badly. (Front tire wear is definitely a non-issue now.)
How does one "easily" reapply the grease?
I don't see how one can just remove the LCA nut and push out the inner sleeve to clean and regrease the bushings "inner crosshatches?"
Won't the weight of the car on the LCA Spindle prevent the inner sleeve to move?
And even if one is able to "push out the inner sleeve," won't the LCA spindle be in the way of accessing the inner crosshatches?
Thanks for anyone's input.
Grease should be applied on the leading edge of the tube when reinstalling it. The tube can be removed with the car jacked up by placing a pry tool between the LCA and the tube then once exposed you can use locking pliers and a buffer like cardboard to grip the tube and pull it out the rest of the way. It can be done, or you can just remove the entire bracket and do it on the bench using an arbor press or deadblow and a socket.
Also, check your sway bar bushings. we have found the sway bushings to be more problematic that these bushings in terms of retaining lubrication. I can look at making a video when we get some spare lift time.
Mike
Grease should be applied on the leading edge of the tube when reinstalling it. The tube can be removed with the car jacked up by placing a pry tool between the LCA and the tube then once exposed you can use locking pliers and a buffer like cardboard to grip the tube and pull it out the rest of the way. It can be done, or you can just remove the entire bracket and do it on the bench using an arbor press or deadblow and a socket.
Also, check your sway bar bushings. we have found the sway bushings to be more problematic that these bushings in terms of retaining lubrication. I can look at making a video when we get some spare lift time.
Mike
Hey Mike, I just ordered a set of LCA bushing from you. It would be awesome if you can make a video on how to re-grease these bad boys. I've read every single posts in this thread but still kinda confuse about how to do it. (Excuse my dumb ***!! )
Hey Mike, I just ordered a set of LCA bushing from you. It would be awesome if you can make a video on how to re-grease these bad boys. I've read every single posts in this thread but still kinda confuse about how to do it. (Excuse my dumb ***!! )
OK I will see what I can put together the next week or so.
Hope to see a video too. I had these on from the summer and they are great. Started hitting cold weather temperatues up in Canada and squeaking heavily on all slow bumps / drive ramps.
I greased the thing like crazy before installing them on the vehicle too.
I store my '09 is 250 RWD for the winter (really poor traction in the snow, tires to big and wide and really light in the back), but this spring I want to get the polys lubed and my mechanic would like to see a video too so he doesn't do any damage in the process. Mike, thanks for what you can do to help us all out..
HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL !!!!! "And to all a good night".
Just installed my brushing and if anyone has any reservations about doing it by themselves don't. They are super easy once you figure them out. Took me about 1.25 hours from start to clean hands. Few tips that caused me to slow down.
The 17mm screw has a nut on the top. I was spinning it forever cursing at why it wouldn't come off then I found the nut. Just hold it with your fingers and the screw comes right out. Also good to know so you don't loose the nut.
To get the brushing on and off use the jack and compress the suspension. I spent about 25 min on the first one trying to move the lower control arm with a pry-bar with no luck and a lot of work. Once I compressed the suspension it just took minimal effort with the pry-bar and the brushing was super easy to get on and off.
I am hoping to get to the track next weekend to test them out. With the minimal driving I have done after the install I did notice a much better brake feel. The front end no longer wags around under hard breaking. That and hopefully my front tires won't have to be replaced every 15K miles not.
What are your thoughts after having the RC-F bushings for a while now? Improved steering feel? Any issues? Do you see the same longevity in you front tires as others have quoted with the FIGS bushings (not sure if you ever had this issue to begin with...)?
All-
Has anyone done this upgrade with an AWD? Do you see the same result? Did you ever see issues with ab normal tire wear? I haven't owned tired long enough to know, I replaced all four when one blistered badly and the rest were fairly worn, wasn't looking out for this at the time.
What are your thoughts after having the RC-F bushings for a while now? Improved steering feel? Any issues? Do you see the same longevity in you front tires as others have quoted with the FIGS bushings (not sure if you ever had this issue to begin with...)?
Steering feel doesn't change much under normal driving, but steering feel under heavy braking is improved. I've never had any tire wear issues, so I haven't seen any change there. Still happy with the performance of the bushings. No complaints.
They're probably/definitely not as stiff as the FIGS bushings, so take that for what it's worth if you're considering changing them out.
They're just the correct option for a car like mine.