QUICK question for BC racing
I'm thinking about get a new set of coils, BC racing is my 1st choice, should I get 12k/10K or 14k/12K? I searched in forum, people really like the ride quality on 12k/10K; dont know about 14k/12k,Anyone mind share experience? I want firm and stiffer ride, but dont wanna bouncy, especially the road in San Francisco. Thanks alot. appreciated.
Yeah, 10k/8k is the OE spring rate; but they will give you custom spring rates for free. It just takes a longer time for order fulfillment. I went with 12k/8k, as I felt that the 10k was just too little for my liking. I DD my car at least 30 minutes one way on city and HWY and I love the ride. Dialed in the fronts to around 18 clicks and the rears at 8 clicks. If you will be taking your car auto-xing alot I'd recommend a 14k/12k combo.
Either way, it's a good purchase; don't forget the rear extenders.
Either way, it's a good purchase; don't forget the rear extenders.
Yeah, 10k/8k is the OE spring rate; but they will give you custom spring rates for free. It just takes a longer time for order fulfillment. I went with 12k/8k, as I felt that the 10k was just too little for my liking. I DD my car at least 30 minutes one way on city and HWY and I love the ride. Dialed in the fronts to around 18 clicks and the rears at 8 clicks. If you will be taking your car auto-xing alot I'd recommend a 14k/12k combo.
Either way, it's a good purchase; don't forget the rear extenders.
Either way, it's a good purchase; don't forget the rear extenders.
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Im running F2 right now, dont know if it'll help you in a way. 14kg and 12kg on my coilovers are smooth, drives like a dream, but when those small bumps and dips come by on any street they firm up. Im running full stiff on mine and it's pretty firm. But then again F2s are dual tube and BC is mono so you may experience a much firmer ride.
Getting firmer spring rates for your coilovers will help your shocks last longer. You will be able to turn the damping softer with 14/10 than you would with 10/8 to not scrape and get a better overall ride.
It's actually the opposite. Swapping in stiffer springs will work the shocks harder if they're not valved for it.
I spoke with BC Racing on their advice before doing the spring swap and they said that if changing the spring rates 4k or greater will require changing the valving on the shocks, but a change of 2k will not require a revalve.
Correct. Most shocks should somewhat accommodate the change, but it will cause a bit more wear, unless the shocks were overdamp in the first place. If you daily drive, you shouldnt have too much trouble









