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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 06:24 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by FIGS
I will put the RCA's up in the next few days. Been just taking orders via email for way too long haha.
In that case I'll send an email for to order the caster arms and upper control arms then?

Whats the price?
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by FIGS
I will put the RCA's up in the next few days. Been just taking orders via email for way too long haha.
Originally Posted by gs400rpg
In that case I'll send an email for to order the caster arms and upper control arms then?
Whats the price?
i think you mistook what he was saying....he has been selling the RCA in the emails. the castor arms NOR the UCA are even made yet. trust me i been barking up this tree every few weeks in emails and they just not ready yet
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 01:04 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by sakataj
i think you mistook what he was saying....he has been selling the RCA in the emails. the castor arms NOR the UCA are even made yet. trust me i been barking up this tree every few weeks in emails and they just not ready yet
I know, just can't wait to hear a price and order
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #49  
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can the is300 steering hysteer knucle on figs website can be used for 2nd gen. GS'sS
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 11:01 AM
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FIGS .... For those of us who only want or need camber adjustments are you going to offer a "camber only" front UCA? I'm still a little skiddish about those bolts holding the caster for any length of time. I feel that three drilled holes rather than slider holes would suit my needs much better. Maybe the holes could be set at the 8.5ish factory spec. and that way, once set everything would be more or less permanent, wouldn't they. Thanks for the great R&D you put into your stuff.....Joe

Last edited by joedad; Dec 14, 2011 at 11:07 AM. Reason: ad to post
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #51  
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i figure adjusting camber and caster must be a major PITA since you have to unbolt everything to get to the top bolts :/
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 06:23 PM
  #52  
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From what FIGS says the camber is adjusted by screwing the mount links in/out as needed, then reinstalled, locking the big nut and then the caster is adjusted on the car on the alignment machine. I think the three bolts can be accessed while on the machine and then the adjustments made. It is labor intensive and that's why I'd like to just set the camber and set the toe with the factory toe arm and, if needed, replace the caster bushings with factory bushings. I believe that once set the camber is not going to change until you decide to change it. Don't take my word on this as I'm waiting to hear from FIGS as you can see by my post up above.

Last edited by joedad; Dec 14, 2011 at 06:41 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 07:08 PM
  #53  
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I am still playing with a few options. I guess caster is not as big of a deal on the 2GS. The problem is that nothing is easy to adjust on the topside when the car is under load, so not sure its worth worrying about, its more of a static offset adjustment anyway. You would max it onto one position or another. Its not too labor intensive really, no more than any other method I can think of.
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 07:56 PM
  #54  
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Maybe have the holes at 0 caster and let the owner deal with caster bushings as needed on their own. OR,maybe set at 2.0 caster and that would keep the car under 10 caster which is the max. anyone would ever want to have. Would it be too costly to offer three choices, A)... Fully adjustable camber/caster, B)... Adjustable camber with 2.0 caster, C) Adjustable camber with 0.00 caster ? Personall, I'd get the 2.0 caster arms adjust the camber and be done with it until I needed replacement parts (bearing, camber links etc.). Sorry if I am driving you crazy with all this....... Joe

Last edited by joedad; Dec 15, 2011 at 08:37 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by FIGS
I am still playing with a few options. I guess caster is not as big of a deal on the 2GS.
The ability to dial in more negative caster would reduce the strain on the steering system for those that don't need such aggressive turn-ins. Your current design is much better than SPC's, and if you could offer them at the same price, with perhaps clearance for people on airbags, it would be awesome.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 06:40 PM
  #56  
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It looks good, but I still am wondering how much the caster bolts can take before moving.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by joedad
It looks good, but I still am wondering how much the caster bolts can take before moving.
Joe, again there is not much stress here in the front to back plane. The bolts are serrated so they grab into the steel. With proper torque they should not go anywhere. For the 2GS, there are other factors that I still need to address and the ball joint angle is one.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 12:05 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by FIGS
Joe, again there is not much stress here in the front to back plane. The bolts are serrated so they grab into the steel. With proper torque they should not go anywhere. For the 2GS, there are other factors that I still need to address and the ball joint angle is one.
A lot of us will be waiting on the sidelines for your final production model. It's the best thing going, hands down. Now, I'll shut up so you can get back to work.!!!

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to FIGS, CLUB LEXUS & ALL my felow is250/350 owners.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 09:36 PM
  #59  
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keep hope alive (Jesse voice) LOL
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:57 PM
  #60  
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Still alive, just trying to assemble our new shop. This got pushed back a little after I swa how long it took to weld what I wanted to call production. I know you guys do not want to pay for that so getting creative on making it safe, affordable and above all a resolution to your problems.
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