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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 07:52 AM
  #31  
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Progress looks great and I noticed the changes to your website, very nice..

What ever happened to the Caster Arms and Hi-Steer pieces? Back in February you posted they may be ready in about a month?? Did you stop working on them? Very excited about these products!

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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #32  
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Can't Wait to get these I need these bad! and Im gonna be cutting a hole on the top so i have more room for the UCA.

price'em lower then SPC lol
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 11:20 AM
  #33  
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Everything kinda slipped when business ramped up. I made one set of caster arms for a high HP car and have modified spacer adapers for the GS designed and being machined. I also have a press-in,adhesive installed bearing cup for a spherical conversion of the rubber caster bushing. Its being tested by an IS right now and once I have the spacers here it will go on a GS immediately.

Mike
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 12:36 PM
  #34  
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what happen with the UCA Camber adjustment bolt bottoms out which the GS normally does for being super slammed.. since the bolts screws from the bottom
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:37 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by GS300ToM
what happen with the UCA Camber adjustment bolt bottoms out which the GS normally does for being super slammed.. since the bolts screws from the bottom
Not sure I understand.
The bearing carrier is a Caster adjustment, the rod ends on the inboard side are the camber adjustment.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 03:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by FIGS
Not sure I understand.
The bearing carrier is a Caster adjustment, the rod ends on the inboard side are the camber adjustment.
Tom is referring to the 3 exposed bolts poking out at the top by the ball joint which I believe will adjust the caster not the camber. Since that area usually bottoms out on the shock tower.

To answer your question Tom, FIGS upper arm is has a bend in the arm to give extra clearance for slammed vehicles and less stress on the ball joint. Whether or not its enough clearance to stop bottoming out is something Mike would need to chime in on.

Any sneak peek photos of the new solid machined bent arms look?

Last edited by Sonic_RC; Oct 20, 2011 at 03:51 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 09:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by YaKuZa_GS
Tom is referring to the 3 exposed bolts poking out at the top by the ball joint which I believe will adjust the caster not the camber. Since that area usually bottoms out on the shock tower.

To answer your question Tom, FIGS upper arm is has a bend in the arm to give extra clearance for slammed vehicles and less stress on the ball joint. Whether or not its enough clearance to stop bottoming out is something Mike would need to chime in on.

Any sneak peek photos of the new solid machined bent arms look?
There will be additional spacers you can install in the tapered stud stack on the ball joint side if its an issue. That is the problem with so many targets.

I am not going to have solid machined parts, just fully ridged bent sheetmetal. The ones that are pictured are close, I just need to actually weld them fully and not a few tack welds here and there like pictured
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 09:53 AM
  #38  
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your on point yakuza
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #39  
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I can't wait to see how these work, and if it stops us slammed GS owners from banging the shock tower all the time on big dips would be great!

I'm also waiting on the caster arms! no one would ever need to buy bushings again and no squeak....and far better braking response. I guess I'll hold off on buying new caster arms.
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 11:21 AM
  #40  
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A "noob" question. On the "front UCA" is the camber adjusted with the nut or are the rod ends removed and screwed in/out as needed? Also , what is the torque in the caster bolts so they don't slip on the first bump? What ball joint is used and where will I have to go for replacing when it wears out?
Now for the "rear LCA", what is the torque on the camber eccentric nut?

Last edited by joedad; Dec 5, 2011 at 11:22 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 03:01 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by joedad
A "noob" question. On the "front UCA" is the camber adjusted with the nut or are the rod ends removed and screwed in/out as needed? Also , what is the torque in the caster bolts so they don't slip on the first bump? What ball joint is used and where will I have to go for replacing when it wears out?
Now for the "rear LCA", what is the torque on the camber eccentric nut?
The upper Control arm is camber/coarse caster via teh two rod ends unthreading and remounting. I am looking into another mod to change this perhaps. The bolts will be extra sprung locked with serrated head bolts to prevent moving while driving. The upper ball joint is really a shperical bearing, any 5/8" bearing should work but I will sell replacements. They should last a while.

Torque on the camber eccentric nut for the REAR LCA is
Torque: 110 N·m (1,120 kgf·cm, 81 ft·lbf)
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:16 PM
  #42  
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okay on the upc ,i know on The website that there is no specific date ,but i am in need of these arms i am trying to hold out
so i will not buy spc,ikeya .BTW mike i can not find your rca on the website

Last edited by TRBOSQRL; Dec 5, 2011 at 11:16 PM. Reason: *******
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 01:47 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TRBOSQRL
okay on the upc ,i know on The website that there is no specific date ,but i am in need of these arms i am trying to hold out
so i will not buy spc,ikeya .BTW mike i can not find your rca on the website
X2.

cant wait to get these, and the caster arms.

Or a whole "front end lowering kit" of fig's parts
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 10:17 PM
  #44  
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I will put the RCA's up in the next few days. Been just taking orders via email for way too long haha.
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 12:53 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by FIGS
I will put the RCA's up in the next few days. Been just taking orders via email for way too long haha.

Hahahahahahaha!
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