I have not changed a tie rod before but I know my outer passenger one is no good on my 2000 gs3. Any Advice on how to swap it? Do I need any special tools? I have the part on order locally...ran me $50.
My main question is... when I am installing the new tie rod to the rack and pinion arm how far do should it thread in? Do I count the exposed threads on the old one and spin the new one on untill it matches? Any help is much appreciated.

 

You need some sort of puller (commonly known as a pitman puller or balljoint puller). It cost me $15 at my local parts store.

I usually take white-out and apply a tiny bit to the thread to mark where the nut is. You only need to loose the nut a bit to pull take out the tie-rod. You'll be close enough when its time to reinstall. You need an alignment right after anyways so just get it as close as you can for the time being.

 

Sup, I just changed mine last week on 2gs4 '98. Mark the nuts on both side with the nail polish, or touch up pain if you have them. Also, count the threads too. You do not need to mess with the nuts to remove the out tie rod. You need just a puller (pitman) it calls for a compact car or something like that on the label. You just two wrench to hold the inner tie rod from moving when you try to remove the outer one. I put the wrench which I used to hold the inner rod against the lover control arm so that I can removed the outer easily. I didn't have to touch or move the nuts. Make sure you use a jack stand along with your car jack for safety measure. Also take your time. It took me about 1 hr including cleaning the break dust residue bwtn both wheel knuckles. I haven't bring mine to do an alignment yet, cus I need to change the strut/spring this weekend too if my parts are coming on time. From 1 to 10 scale, I give it a 3 as 10 is the hardest. Good luck. Don't mess with the nuts if you are changing outer tie rod.

 

its really easy. no need really for a pitman arm puller since you are replacing the ends anyway.
remove wheels
take off cotter pin and nut connecting the spindle to the tie rods
hammer the rod end until it pops down.
mark the position of the tierodend with w/e you can
remove and replace
done
alignment
BEER!

 

gs3Nic, if you're still on stock balljoints, you might as well replace those too and get an alignment done at once. I wouldn't trust an the OEM balljoint with more than 100k miles. Plus you can make more use of the pitman puller

 

Thanks for all the advice..It was a fairly easy job and no more clunck when I turn! I do still need to replace d/side lower ball joint, and then I'll follow that with an alignment.

 

replace both your balljoints at the same time. you dont want uneven wear or ride quality

 

Yea I hit a massive pothole over the winter and my passenger side ball joint was replaced, so I'm going to do the d/side myself...fair warning to all who use gerber collision for accident repairs...Don't

 

great tool i use it on mostly every car that has an easy access to the ball joints.. works perfect

 

Not sure why people are using the Pitman Puller, it's HAMMER TIME!!

 

I must admit the tie rods on the GS are the easiest I have ever changed, inner and outer are easy....

You can try to remove the nut and then tap on the SIDE of the hole where it does in and see if it pops, some do fairly easily.