DIY - Brake Pad Replacement
Parts:
-brake pads of course. Any brand will do. I prefer to use OEM and that’s what I used here.
-pad shim kit. You can reuse the shims if you have them. My car didn’t have them so I bought new (about $25 per axle and includes the brake grease)
-hardware kit. Again, you can reuse what you have already.
-DOT3 brake fluid
-brake grease (if reusing your old shims)
Tools:
-jack and jack stands
-21mm socket
-14mm socket or wrench
-17mm slim wrench
-3/8" ratchet
-torque wrench
-twine or wire
-breaker bar
-C clamp
Start by parking on a firm and level surface and set your emergency brake. Using your 21mm socket and wrench, break the lug nuts free (do NOT remove them yet). Use a breaker bar if necessary. Raise the car and place your jack stands accordingly. I prefer to raise the front, do them first, then lower the car and do the rear. When doing the rears, be sure and chock your front wheels so it doesn’t roll anywhere.
Once the car is firmly up in the air, and you know it’s not going anywhere, remove the lug nuts and then the wheel. This is what you will see when you get the wheel off.
To see the entire DIY, see link above.
Last edited by schwarz; Jun 10, 2009 at 05:49 AM.
you want the squealer to sit so that when the rotor is traveling in the normal forward direction, it will pull the squealer down towards the pad, not away from it:

feel me knockin'?!
Good write up!
Last edited by Spooled; Mar 3, 2008 at 04:12 PM.
Trending Topics
But you didn't mention the spreader springs, and not everyone thinks it's a good idea to push brake fluid back into the system, as you advise.
A lot of installers skip the springs, especially in the rears, but the fronts are pretty straight-forward. You can see the springs in the center of this pic, taken from the excellent DIY page, www.lexls.com:

As for the fluid, I know that many installers just push it back (including LexLS!), but a lot of brake manufacturers, like Bendix, do not recommend it. Nor do I do that when I replace my own pads - it's just asking for trouble. This is what I do, from http://bendixbrakes.com/download/pdf...-Brake-Job.pdf:
"Always open bleeder screw and place a hose on it to direct used fluid into a container while caliper piston is retracted. Never retract caliper piston with bleeder screw closed, this forces dirty fluid back into the ABS hydraulic unit and master cylinder."
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
Millions of pads have been replaced the way schwarz describes to no ill effect.
It's just not the way I do it, for the reasons described above.
And it still doesn't eliminate the need to flush my brake fluid from time to time.
I just did this two days ago using the same basic principles. As said above, it's not wise to push the old fluid back into the resivior... It's also human nature to do whatever you wanna do... Which is why I didn't bleed anything and pushed the fluid back into the resivior. I use changed my brake fluid so it should be tip top and not too much of a worry. Anywho, the falls above are correct to those who are new to the process. Do as we say, not as we do.












