Removing Front Hub Assembly
06-15-07, 07:37 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Removing Front Hub Assembly
Got a question from a member on how to go about removing the front hub assemblies. So I thought I'd share it with everyone. Though quite a few of you guys have probably already been through this process, I figured I'd do my little part in contributing to the forum knowledge base with what I encountered while doing some recent front end work.
The photos are pretty self-explanatory on what all needs to be disconected in order to remove a hub assembly. I tried to make them so easy a caveman could do it - even to the point of redundancy quite likely. But, hey, that's the way I like it. Nothing worse than staring at an image and not knowing what you're looking at.
You'll notice (in Image 1) that my upper ca frame mount is undone. This IS NOT necessary in order to remove the hub assembly. I did it here because I was swapping out all my UCA and LCA bushings in addition to taking the hubs in to have new bearings pressed.
Also, on the UCA ball joint, I indicate that a "puller" type joint separator should be used. But in all honesty, I don't remember if I used a puller or a scissor type for that one. Won't really matter though, because you'll need to have both on hand to do the job.
The general assumption is being made that anyone doing this work already knows how to remove the brake caliper and rotor. Three ball joints need to be separated here: UCA joint, LCA joint and Steering Rack joint. If you've never used a joint separator before, don't be alarmed by the joint making a loud (violent) POP while you're tightening the separator down onto it.
Just be extra careful not to damage the rubber boots over the joints. Otherwise you'll be forking out a lot more $$ replacing the whole arms.
Oh, and don't forget a torque wrench for putting thing back together.
I'll have to post a few time to get all the pics in. Hope somebody finds this helpful.
The photos are pretty self-explanatory on what all needs to be disconected in order to remove a hub assembly. I tried to make them so easy a caveman could do it - even to the point of redundancy quite likely. But, hey, that's the way I like it. Nothing worse than staring at an image and not knowing what you're looking at.
You'll notice (in Image 1) that my upper ca frame mount is undone. This IS NOT necessary in order to remove the hub assembly. I did it here because I was swapping out all my UCA and LCA bushings in addition to taking the hubs in to have new bearings pressed.
Also, on the UCA ball joint, I indicate that a "puller" type joint separator should be used. But in all honesty, I don't remember if I used a puller or a scissor type for that one. Won't really matter though, because you'll need to have both on hand to do the job.
The general assumption is being made that anyone doing this work already knows how to remove the brake caliper and rotor. Three ball joints need to be separated here: UCA joint, LCA joint and Steering Rack joint. If you've never used a joint separator before, don't be alarmed by the joint making a loud (violent) POP while you're tightening the separator down onto it.
Just be extra careful not to damage the rubber boots over the joints. Otherwise you'll be forking out a lot more $$ replacing the whole arms.Oh, and don't forget a torque wrench for putting thing back together.
I'll have to post a few time to get all the pics in. Hope somebody finds this helpful.
06-15-07, 08:39 PM
#5
awesome,except NONE of those special tools are needed... a decent sized deadblow hammer will do the exact same job,except muchfaster, and really, easier... one nice whack on any of the ball joints and they pretty much fall apart - don't hit the threaded part, but the part it goes through - one solid hit, and it loosens the whole thing and pretty much falls apart....
06-17-07, 12:39 PM
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
awesome,except NONE of those special tools are needed... a decent sized deadblow hammer will do the exact same job,except muchfaster, and really, easier... one nice whack on any of the ball joints and they pretty much fall apart - don't hit the threaded part, but the part it goes through - one solid hit, and it loosens the whole thing and pretty much falls apart....
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06-27-07, 03:52 PM
#10
one well placed hit with a DEAD BLOW hammer, not a sledge, will loosen up any ball joint and not cause any damage to anything else, nor will it even potentially mess up threads...
kinda like pickle forks... I have no idea why anyone would EVER use one, yet many mechanics prefer them - they tear the **** out of dust boots and such, but some say it's the preferred way...
06-28-07, 08:20 AM
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=mitsuguy;2727010]umm...last thing you want is the very last thread of a ball joint pressed unevenly - you'll never get a nut on it if that happens...QUOTE]
LOL...You must have known I wasted about 4 1/2 hours (after having jacked-up the top threads of the steering rack ball joint bolt by trying first to whack it out with a sledge) between trying desparately to force the nut back on it, running to 4 different autoparts stores, hardware stores and one mechanics supply shop late on a Saturday afternoon trying to find (A) a replacement crowned nut and/or (B) tools for rethreading the bolt AND nut I jacked-up trying to screw it back down onto the bolt
So, take it from someone who knows - all it takes is one off-angle whack to render the threads on a bolt totally useless. That's why I decided to just borrow the separators from Murray's Auto Parts.
LOL...You must have known I wasted about 4 1/2 hours (after having jacked-up the top threads of the steering rack ball joint bolt by trying first to whack it out with a sledge) between trying desparately to force the nut back on it, running to 4 different autoparts stores, hardware stores and one mechanics supply shop late on a Saturday afternoon trying to find (A) a replacement crowned nut and/or (B) tools for rethreading the bolt AND nut I jacked-up trying to screw it back down onto the bolt
So, take it from someone who knows - all it takes is one off-angle whack to render the threads on a bolt totally useless. That's why I decided to just borrow the separators from Murray's Auto Parts.
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