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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 09:31 PM
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Default Spring Compressor tool

I'm Planning to help install my l-tuned shocks this weekend. I've read a lot of helpful info on the procedure. I wanted to know if these spring compressors will do the job.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 02:18 AM
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they will, but i have seen my friend using them.... they aren't the easiest to use i would say
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 04:47 AM
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Those are a pain to use and slow. I took my new sorings and shocks to a local shop and they charged me one hour labor to switch everything over. Then you just need to reinstall the complete unit.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 05:33 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. It would be safer for us to take the units the a shop and have them swaped and we re-installed the on the car..
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 06:45 AM
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Those *may* not work. They may be for MacPhereson (sp) springs only.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 06:23 PM
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Well, My Brother and I started the L-tuned suspension today. Let me tell you. Do not use the spring compressors that I posted at the beginning of this thread. THEY WILL NOT WORK.. It took us 2 hours to do one front shock and spring (my Brother is an outstanding mechanic). I will post pictures of the process. It is not hard at all, but I would recommend the DIY's to uninstall the shocks and take the 4 four units with replacement springs and shocks to a shop to have them compressed and swapped out with the correct spring compressing tool. Don't even waste your time with this type of spring compressor. The GS springs are very, very sprung. The major issue with this type of compressing tool, is the upper strut mount is very wide and the spring compressor won't clear it when you're compressing and decompressing the springs. Another thing that I noticed between the OEM springs and the L-tuned springs, it appear as though the L-tuned springs are wider in diameter and the spring compressor clip won't come out after decompressing the spring. Had to perform the process many, many times to get it correct. Over all, the job is not hard at all. I do recommend removing both ends of the sway bar . We also had an issue getting the upper ball joint disconnected (should also have a ball joint remover (press) handy). It took a while to get the front drivers side disconnected (had to use a small rubber hammer). I did not have a problem with the ABS sensor, I disconnected the wire from the shock and used a floor jack to rest the rotor to not put any stress on the ABS sensor wire. Once the upper arm balll joint came loose the brake line held everything in place. Every thing swung outward at the point. So I did not have to disconnect the ABS sensor wire. In summary: It's not that hard, it should take approx 4-5 hours to do the job. If you have the proper tools...
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 08:15 PM
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I did the install by myself. I didn't need to disconnect the ball joint. That may give you more room to remove the shock and spring but it is not necessary.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 08:30 PM
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Cxp, it sounds like my install issue! I didn't have a ball joint remover. I tried with a rubber mallet, but that did nothing. Then I tried with a hammer, and that did nothing. So, I went for the pickle fork and it farked me over. I damaged the rubber boot (the one that covers the ball joint). Well, Lexus doesn't sell that part. To fix it, you must buy the ENTIRE upper control arm.

Here's my story if you're interested. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ht=rubber+boot

HDDuece, I wished I knew you didn't have to separate the knuckle from the upper control arm. But it looked so damn tight, I didn't know how to angle the strut/springs in/out of there without separating it.

Cxp, I guess I was right, I guess that spring compressor was for MacPherson suspensions, huh? Guess how I know??? I went to Autozone since they lend out tools. It didn't work for me either.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 08:34 PM
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It was tight without taking upper ball joint loose but it can be done. I followed these instructions:http://www.seloc.net/modules.php?nam...showpage&pid=3
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