Eibach/Bilstein installation question
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: New York
Eibach/Bilstein installation question
Yesterday, I attempted to install my Eibach/Bilstein combo. First mistake. The damn spring compressor broke and I didn't think I needed one since the springs were already installed in the strut already (I got the spring/strut used from a member on this board).
Anyway, I started with the front.
Took out the oem spring/strut and when I attempted to install the Eibach/Bilstein, I found out that I needed something to compress the spring just a little bit so that the strut can turn just a tad so that it fits! Well, somehow my buddy & I man handled it and we got it to fit.
But heres the problem. When I took the OEM spring/strut off, I teared the rubber boot! This boot is located on the upper control arm (the thing that looks like a wishbone). I guess it's the upper ball joint?
Well, the upper ball joint/upper control arm's rubber boot got ripped. Does anyone know if I can replace it? Does Lexus sell this item? Right now, I just have electrical tape all around it. Hopefully, that will prevent all the dirt from going in.
I have to do the rears sometime this week. It feel funny! When I drive, I can feel the rear being higher than the front! LOL
Anyway, I started with the front.
Took out the oem spring/strut and when I attempted to install the Eibach/Bilstein, I found out that I needed something to compress the spring just a little bit so that the strut can turn just a tad so that it fits! Well, somehow my buddy & I man handled it and we got it to fit.
But heres the problem. When I took the OEM spring/strut off, I teared the rubber boot! This boot is located on the upper control arm (the thing that looks like a wishbone). I guess it's the upper ball joint?
Well, the upper ball joint/upper control arm's rubber boot got ripped. Does anyone know if I can replace it? Does Lexus sell this item? Right now, I just have electrical tape all around it. Hopefully, that will prevent all the dirt from going in.
I have to do the rears sometime this week. It feel funny! When I drive, I can feel the rear being higher than the front! LOL
sorry bro i have done quite a few susp swaps but never damaged the boot .. once that boot is damaged it will be a matter of time before dirt oil water etc will contaminate the joint and fail the a arm is not cheap so beware and good luck
Most likely the boot will come with the control arm and not a seperate item.
How hard was taking out the strut assemblies? I plan on installing installing some TEINs in the near future.
How hard was taking out the strut assemblies? I plan on installing installing some TEINs in the near future.
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,561
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From: New York
It was a PITA gettng the OEM off. The control arm didn't want to separate from the "knuckle" (is that what you call it? It's the piece holding up the brake rotor).
I tried using a hammer, but I was afraid to screw up the threads on the bolt. So, I used this fork and stuck it in where the boot is located and banged it in. It took me a good 20 minute to freaking separate the control arm from the knuckle.
But for the driverside, it came apart with a couple of hits from a hammer. The passenger side was the one that was stuck!
Damn it! How much time do I have before the control arm goes bad? How much does the control arm cost?
I heard the fronts are harder to do than the rear. I still haven't gotten to my rear yet. Hopefully, it won't be as bad.
I tried using a hammer, but I was afraid to screw up the threads on the bolt. So, I used this fork and stuck it in where the boot is located and banged it in. It took me a good 20 minute to freaking separate the control arm from the knuckle.
But for the driverside, it came apart with a couple of hits from a hammer. The passenger side was the one that was stuck!
Damn it! How much time do I have before the control arm goes bad? How much does the control arm cost?
I heard the fronts are harder to do than the rear. I still haven't gotten to my rear yet. Hopefully, it won't be as bad.
Last edited by Cadd; Aug 3, 2004 at 08:42 AM.
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cadd
sorry to say just a matter of time before it fails steve can get you a replacement a arm
next time do not use pic\kle fork on these joints for the boots at the joint are very sen.. use a 4lb mini sledge and tap on the square part on either side if does not pop spray alittle liquid wrench at the joint area not on the boot itself to allow the rust that has caused the metal to bond break loose.. the rears require the same action or use a good tie rod puller
sorry to say just a matter of time before it fails steve can get you a replacement a arm
next time do not use pic\kle fork on these joints for the boots at the joint are very sen.. use a 4lb mini sledge and tap on the square part on either side if does not pop spray alittle liquid wrench at the joint area not on the boot itself to allow the rust that has caused the metal to bond break loose.. the rears require the same action or use a good tie rod puller
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i had the lower ball joint tear on the bottom a arm but i can just replace that ball joint i dont have to replace the entire arm i also used a pickle fork but i was told to keep it checked and lots of waterproof grease and it will last a while 
Last edited by lexusondubs; Aug 4, 2004 at 12:18 AM.
Originally posted by lexusondubs
i had the lower ball joint tear on the bottom a arm but i can just replace that ball joint i dont have to replace the entire arm i also used a pickle fork but i was told to keep it checked and lots of waterproof grease and it will last a while
i had the lower ball joint tear on the bottom a arm but i can just replace that ball joint i dont have to replace the entire arm i also used a pickle fork but i was told to keep it checked and lots of waterproof grease and it will last a while
Originally posted by lexforlife
the lower ball joint on the bottom of knuckle is changeable but not the upper attached to the a arm.. using grease is a must but it is not so much as being low on grease in the joint but dirt and dust pitting the joint causing it to fail rapid..i dont use pickle forks for this exact reason
the lower ball joint on the bottom of knuckle is changeable but not the upper attached to the a arm.. using grease is a must but it is not so much as being low on grease in the joint but dirt and dust pitting the joint causing it to fail rapid..i dont use pickle forks for this exact reason
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,561
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From: New York
Since it looks like my joint will go bad, what can I do in the meantime to prolong its life? What type of grease or silicone (if any) can I use to try to prevent dirt & dust from getting in?
I will duct tape the entire thing. Hopefully that will help.
Also, what will I experience when it does go bad?
Do you think it is possible to for a DIY to install the upper control arm? Any special tools needed? I guess it's time for me to look for junkyards.
Anyone have any idea how much dealers would charge?
I will duct tape the entire thing. Hopefully that will help.
Also, what will I experience when it does go bad?
Do you think it is possible to for a DIY to install the upper control arm? Any special tools needed? I guess it's time for me to look for junkyards.
Anyone have any idea how much dealers would charge?
Thread Starter
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,561
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From: New York
Originally posted by rgarjr
So if seperating the control arm from the knuckle a must to take out the OEM strut assemblies out? I remember on the hondas you don't need to seperate them.
So if seperating the control arm from the knuckle a must to take out the OEM strut assemblies out? I remember on the hondas you don't need to seperate them.