oneround

Thanks for the link, somehow I missed that one.

I have both the Axxess ASWC-Toy-Lex, as well as the PAC SWI-RC-1. I'm willing to try them both if I can't get more of the buttons to work.

The PAC people told me that with an Android deck I should pretend it was like a Pioneer. That would get me the volume +/-. Then I could manually program in other functions. Time will tell.

oneround

Thought I might mention to anyone looking in. My ML amp died and after some thought I decided to replace everything eventually.

Yesterday I removed the ML Amp and the Nav DVD systems from the trunk. At this point the OEM multi-display and radio are still in the vehicle.

The reason for this posts is both the radio and Multi-Display doors still work with no change to the wiring (except removal of the Amp and DVD drive).

I know the radio system is the AVC-LAN Master, and it doesn't seem to care that it no longer can communicate with the Amp or Nav DVD drive.

This info is likely already posted in the one thread or another, if anyone can point it out, I'd be happy to give credit where credit is do (I seriously doubt that I was the first to "discover" this).

khuong

Very nice - I tried the 68ohm trick today on the connector without the unit, and it did not work i pulled original radio inside, going to do some tracing of the contacts and see what makes it tick.

khuong

Okay,

So I pulled out the trusty multi meter, and tested continuity and resistance between the three connectors - Going to test later today and splice the wires together as per the pinout at the end of this message -- as previously I connected all the +'s together and -'s together, which doesn't seem to be the correct method of doing it - maybe I misread what Retroplay posted in the other message.

My Stock Radio is (2008 Lexus SC430)
TOYOTA - 86120-24392 (FX-MG8217 ZT-03)
MFD: DEC 2007 PK

Here's the pin out, and a resistance of 68/68.5 Ohms between the TX+ / TX-.



68 ohm Between TX+'s / TX-'s

oneround

If you ever had a PAC SWI-RC steering box in the SC where did you find the blue wire that PAC says is at the base of the steering wheel?

The base of mine (going into firewall) has no plugs. So I'm not sure where to look for the 6-pin connector.

Take down the panel under the wheel, look for in the kick panel? Don't want to pick the wrong Blue wire.

Help?

khuong

So I made up some connectors and put a 68ohm resistor between the two -- wired it up.. and it works as intended (ignore check the system, there is a bad DVD in NAV DRIVE) -- but the door for the NAV works without having the stock radio in.

Not sure I want to butcher up my stock harness, so I'll probably splice it into the connector for the AXXESS box.

Contrary to the other hacks/mods/bypasses from other Lexus models with the NAV -- you're required to complete the IEBus/AVCLan in all 3 connectors or it will not work -- I believe the system will think there's a short/open somewhere.

I believe the other thread with Retroplay (linked above) was partially correct - but with all the info, and pinouts and testing, looks like we can retain the NAV + Nav Door Open/Close without the Beatsonic (I understand the beatsonic also emulates the SWC's with limited capacity) as well.

khuong

C2 for the PAC was where the clock spring connectors come out, I think it's under the panel under the steering wheel, I've attached the components, It's by the Key hole or that area from what I remember. (Like the Steering Column Cover)

Sorry I messed around with the PAC ages ago after I did my first radio swap -- been years.

khuong

Sorry for the double post, here are some screenshots (You don't have to take off steering wheel, I don't remember taking mine off)

But this video let me find the connector to screenshot for ya ( )

oneround

Many thanks. The connector with matching wire colors (and especially blue at pin 1) in the last pic matches what Pac says needs to be tapped.

khuong

BTW Not sure if you already stated or knew this, the Door for the Radio is a dumb door, doesn't care what's connected to the system, as long as the motor is connected, it'll function.
Only the NAV door requires communication to the BUS/LAN

oneround

Nope, didn't know that. Was looking at ASWC directions to use 6-pin plug off radio. And if I read the wiring diagram correctly that would have removed the radio to door connection. That makes the Axxess product the easier to install (compared to PAC).

khuong

The Axxess SWC module is a "plug and play" module, depending on the year, either 6 Pin (not the radio door connector that is separate, but the blue connector that goes into "stock" radio) and the 12 pin.. but again I could never get it work reliably, or well enough, its actually hooked up now, but I may toss it and do the resistor mod + pac again -- haven't decided.

I bought Android Radios that have a DIAL instead of a touch button for VOL, so I kind of don't use the SWC.

After I finish / get working the NAV door without BeatSonic I'll tackle the SWC again.. for now if I could get Nav Door working with the TYTO Axxess (i dont have other amp installed) I' can swap that NAV screen out.

MattInLex

I'm following this closely - about to embark on a total radio redo this weekend. One question I have is that I can't confirm whether the SC430 steering control pad for the radio is just a resistor network or if it is part of a bus? (I have a 2002 SC430). The reason I ask is that I bought an Axxess module to control a Sony XAV-AX5600. But the Sony includes a small pigtail that you can wire into a resistive network. So if it is the resistive network, the Axxess module is not necessary. Here is the connection guide for the pigtail: https://www.sony.com/electronics/sup...icles/00168680

The info about jumping the network on the connectors is super helpful! Thanks. I was planning on taking the motherboard out of the stock headhunt and plugging it in behind the dash just to keep the bus alive. Looks like I won't have to do that

So if all goes to plan, I will have a new Sony head unit with a new Rockford Fosgate amp in my trunk to drive the Polk audio speakers that I had to put in last year due to dry-rot of the originals.

khuong

The stock steering wheel controls are canbus driven, there are a few adapters that claim to work, with limited capabilities (from my experience I’ve tried 3 different ones)

MattInLex

Thanks. I do have the Axxess module but was hoping to return it to save the $50

Also, on the 66 ohm jumpers, since there are three each of TX+ and TX-, did you put a resistor between each set? Can you sketch a simple diagram of where the resistors went?