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I just sold my Audi TT for a 2005 SC430 with 65k miles on it. It’s never seen rain or snow and I’m trying to get some of the kinks worked out, so I’m reading on here like crazy.
First, I had to get new tires and rims, I’m sorry but I couldn’t stomach the OEM rims that came on it and I couldn’t afford the OEM rims through Lexus that I liked ($320 each) so I went with aftermarket and Goodyear tires. Wow, it made a difference in the ride, but I’m still noticing a wobble or vibration in the steering. I’m thinking new struts next? The rear shocks are definitely leaking. I’ve already received a price of $1700 for all 4 new struts and an alignment (Lexus parts). Does that price sound right to you? I’ve also seen something about a sway bar or something else that might be causing this problem.
I know it won’t handle like the 3.2 Audi TT, but it should ride very smooth, right? The vibration is truly annoying for it being a Lexus.
Also, it only came with one key. I’ve gathered that I should get more made before this one breaks or gets lost. What are the cheapest (but still effective) ways to go about this without paying $300 for a replicated key. Have any of you had success on eBay or whatever else?
I’m sure there will be more, but those are the big ones for the moment. I am loving this car! Thank you!
Last edited by Mayor44; Aug 7, 2020 at 11:55 AM.
Reason: Black out License
There are many reasons for the wobble or front vibration. Do the search on this subject.
For your spare key, there are few options:
1. you could save some bucks by going with local Locksmith instead of Lexus dealer.
2. You could purchase a blank key from EBay or Amazon, have it cut by local Locksmith then program it by yourself if you have TechStream. Key costs $30-80, cut $50, TechStream $50, and computer cost?.
3. You could send the image of your key to Key101, they will cut and program for you. I do not know the charge. You can ask them.
What ever you decide, do it soon. You do not want to go thru the troubles when you lost your only key.
You can buy FRONT OEM shocks that don't have Lexus on them and save some money. Go to Google and type in clublexus SC430 OEM shocks. I THINK they are made by KYB. The rear shocks are a little trickier. You buy them for a GS430 but they require a slight bit of shaving, because the mount is too fat or something. Your search will turn up the details
Here is the link to 1010keys GMan referenced. They will cut you a key from a picture of your key. You can even get a more modern flip key. You will need to program either one of them to your car though. You can either buy a programmer from 1010Keys (if you have more than the valet key), take it to the dealer or a locksmith. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blade-Cut-3...UAAOSwEaNa4UVl
OR YOU CAN TRY AND PROGRAM IT YOURSELF USING THESE INSTRUCTIONS Successful SC430 Key Programming
Close all doors.
Insert an already programmed master key into the ignition.
Turn the key from the OFF to On and back OFF FIVE (5) times.
Open and close the drivers door SIX (6) times.
Remove the key from the ignition.
Insert the new key you want to program into the ignition.
There are many reasons for the wobble or front vibration. Do the search on this subject.
For your spare key, there are few options:
1. you could save some bucks by going with local Locksmith instead of Lexus dealer.
2. You could purchase a blank key from EBay or Amazon, have it cut by local Locksmith then program it by yourself if you have TechStream. Key costs $30-80, cut $50, TechStream $50, and computer cost?.
3. You could send the image of your key to Key101, they will cut and program for you. I do not know the charge. You can ask them.
What ever you decide, do it soon. You do not want to go thru the troubles when you lost your only key.
thank you! I will follow up on those steps. I noticed a slight crack in the plastic part of the key fob yesterday, so it might not be long for this world.
Here is the link to 1010keys GMan referenced. They will cut you a key from a picture of your key. You can even get a more modern flip key. You will need to program either one of them to your car though. You can either buy a programmer from 1010Keys (if you have more than the valet key), take it to the dealer or a locksmith. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blade-Cut-3...UAAOSwEaNa4UVl
OR YOU CAN TRY AND PROGRAM IT YOURSELF USING THESE INSTRUCTIONS Successful SC430 Key Programming
Close all doors.
Insert an already programmed master key into the ignition.
Turn the key from the OFF to On and back OFF FIVE (5) times.
Open and close the drivers door SIX (6) times.
Remove the key from the ignition.
Insert the new key you want to program into the ignition.
Welcome to the forums! I'm new to the forums myself. Regarding the wobble/vibration issue. I am having the same issue (2006 SC at 53,000 miles) and my local mechanic has suggested it's the control arm bushings (just told me this an hour or so before I posted this). I found this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-bushings.html. Of course, your issue may be for some other reason, but given I'm experiencing something similar and given my mechanic JUST NOW diagnosed the cause, I though it best to share.
I have a question for you: What exactly are those sfter market wheels? They're great looking.
Welcome to the forums! I'm new to the forums myself. Regarding the wobble/vibration issue. I am having the same issue (2006 SC at 53,000 miles) and my local mechanic has suggested it's the control arm bushings (just told me this an hour or so before I posted this). I found this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-bushings.html. Of course, your issue may be for some other reason, but given I'm experiencing something similar and given my mechanic JUST NOW diagnosed the cause, I though it best to share.
I have a question for you: What exactly are those sfter market wheels? They're great looking.
So, I’ve now read that these might be my two leading diagnoses: 1)control arm bushings or 2)struts. I’m taking mine for a second opinion on Weds to a very well respected mechanic in town. I’m going to run these two ideas past him and I’ll let you know. Are you planning on having that repaired? What did he say for the bushings? For struts (all of them) I got a cost of $1600 with an alignment pre tax.
As for the rims, I got them from tirerack. New tires and rims. They’re called MSW Type 40- company owned by OZ, so I’m Extremely pleased with the quality. They are 18x8 with a 45mm offset. Price was right with new 18” Goodyear’s, came to $1,300 (after $200 mail in rebate). I had my local shop mount and balance them because of the damn TPMS sensors, they were able to reuse my sensors from my stock wheels. Aftermarket sensors don’t seem to work well with a Lexus as the company wants you to pay $$ to them to activate them. I’m glad I researched this issue on here first.
Great, thanks for the wheel info! I've had the stock wheels on since I got the car (about 3 years ago), but I'm through being embarrased. So I'll take a look at the MSW's and get that issue taken care of once and for all. Thanks again.
The local mechanic will give me the quote on Monday. I'll pass it on when I get it.
There are other things to check before going all out on a new front end. (Now if you've had the front end checked out and they've said those components are bad, that's another story.)
Make sure that the wheels aren't bent
Have the wheels/tires "road forced balanced"
For aftermarket wheels, make sure that the opening in the wheels match the hub. If the hole in the wheel is larger, you'll need to get a spacer to fill in that gap.
If you have offsets, make sure that they fit properly.
Make sure that the lug nuts are properly tightened and evenly tightened all around the wheel.
These are all way cheaper than getting front end work done and are worth checking out first.
There are other things to check before going all out on a new front end. (Now if you've had the front end checked out and they've said those components are bad, that's another story.)
Make sure that the wheels aren't bent
Have the wheels/tires "road forced balanced"
For aftermarket wheels, make sure that the opening in the wheels match the hub. If the hole in the wheel is larger, you'll need to get a spacer to fill in that gap.
If you have offsets, make sure that they fit properly.
Make sure that the lug nuts are properly tightened and evenly tightened all around the wheel.
These are all way cheaper than getting front end work done and are worth checking out first.
Welcome to the forum.
Thank you! I’ll put these on the list of questions for the mechanic to check out. I followed the OEM specs for tires and wheels exactly, so I’ll ask him to check those all over too. Great idea, although I would say that I noticed these issues with the OEM wheels and tires too. The ride has improved with the new tires certainly, but the vibration (especially when going over rough road areas or bumps) is very annoying.
Thank you! I’ll put these on the list of questions for the mechanic to check out. I followed the OEM specs for tires and wheels exactly, so I’ll ask him to check those all over too. Great idea, although I would say that I noticed these issues with the OEM wheels and tires too. The ride has improved with the new tires certainly, but the vibration (especially when going over rough road areas or bumps) is very annoying.
I am going to just say this...I rebuilt the entire front end with new poly bushings only to find out struts probably would have corrected my issues in the beginning. I selected coilovers and was not happy with the stiff suspension around town and at low speed, but loved it driving 90mph.
needless to say, I recently replaced the coilovers with the original springs (I saved the OEM struts and spring assemblies). Anyway, KYB on the front and Gabriel’s on the rear. The car is AWESOME and I love driving her again. It’s a 2002...I also have a 2007, it’s all OEM, 42k miles.
the 2002 has 109k miles and she runs and drives like new.
I am going to just say this...I rebuilt the entire front end with new poly bushings only to find out struts probably would have corrected my issues in the beginning. I selected coilovers and was not happy with the stiff suspension around town and at low speed, but loved it driving 90mph.
needless to say, I recently replaced the coilovers with the original springs (I saved the OEM struts and spring assemblies). Anyway, KYB on the front and Gabriel’s on the rear. The car is AWESOME and I love driving her again. It’s a 2002...I also have a 2007, it’s all OEM, 42k miles.
the 2002 has 109k miles and she runs and drives like new.
Great advice. I’m glad that I’m heading in the right direction. I had one mechanic suggest all new struts and I want to have another one give his opinion while also considering the bushing theory. I’m looking at $1500 for new struts and alignment on top of the $1500 I just put into the tires and rims. Glad I picked it up for a steal. My biggest hope is once this is done, I get some problem free years ahead (with only 65k miles on it).
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