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I just double checked and YES if I put Key in Ignition, open drivers door, buzzer/ding works!
Another update, went to bed last night and remote started working again! When I just went to answer your question the car would not unlock via the remote!
So I then put key in ignition as mentioned, opened the Door and Buzzer works as said. Took key out shut door and Remote started to work again!! Ok, so let me try this again, and remote stopped working again!!!
I repeated, put key back into ignition and buzzer works when opening driver door, but this time remote did not return and start working as it did earlier! Car is isn Garage!
The dealer told me when the remote system was not working, the car did not give them any codes.....
So wondering now if it is the Mirror and or the Alarm module??
I just double checked and YES if I put Key in Ignition, open drivers door, buzzer/ding works!
Another update, went to bed last night and remote started working again! When I just went to answer your question the car would not unlock via the remote!
So I then put key in ignition as mentioned, opened the Door and Buzzer works as said. Took key out shut door and Remote started to work again!! Ok, so let me try this again, and remote stopped working again!!!
I repeated, put key back into ignition and buzzer works when opening driver door, but this time remote did not return and start working as it did earlier! Car is isn Garage!
The dealer told me when the remote system was not working, the car did not give them any codes.....
So wondering now if it is the Mirror and or the Alarm module??
B-
i read the previous posts and didn’t see where anyone suggested you do the following since the problems begin after washing your car.
spray one small area of the car, like the drivers glass and door. Wait 15 min then check for problems. If none, do the passenger door and window...
if still no issues, spray the windshield...wait 15 min and check for problems.
at some point the issues will show up and you can isolate the water problem.
if you find it to be the windshield area, I would take the radio, NAV screen and HVAC control out and inspect them for moisture along with the area inside the dash.
i would also open all of the boxes under the hood and look for moisture.
another thing to try. After the problem starts again, open the doors and take a fan(s) and let them blow under the dash, check the car every hour to see if the problem goes away. If it goes away quickly then you can focus on the dash.
these are just ideas of what I would attempt...good luck!
Reposting my previous comments...
dont worry about a tarp, just turn the hose down on low and stray the drivers door, window and door jam.
if it goes out, remove the interior door panel and place a fan blowing into the door.
once it is working again, only stray into the front of the door jam.
This is very odd. So the car has been dry for hours (at least the outside of it) and the remote continues to fail - intermittently. Maybe water is a red herring? Just thinking out loud.
So let’s try opening and closing the driver’s door several times. Each open and close time test the remote. (Trying to isolate a loose connection or bad ECU in the door, or still could be moisture getting inside the door - inspect the door belt - that’s the weather striping that presses up against the glass as the window goes up) I am assuming when washing the car the driver’s door was opened and closed too. I want you to inspect the cable (at the door hinge that goes into the door) for any anomalies including damage/moisture.
The diagram in the previous post show the position of all of the components involved. Have you removed the interior door panel and driver’s side kick panel yourself before? Are you willing to do this if necessary to expose all the components involved? It may also be necessary to remove the steering column undercover panel, which means disconnecting the hood release latch cable (which can be difficult to get back together-I’ve found it easier to remove the two Phillips head screws, separate the white cable receiver then too try and reseat the cable while the receiver is still connected with the panel ), a foot well light and the OBDII port connector.
With all the panels removed you can start inspecting connection points one by one as well as moisture
Last edited by VVTiBob; Feb 18, 2018 at 07:07 AM.
Reason: Added door belt weatherstrip diagram
Yes, when washing Car, I always open Drivers Door to wipe out Door Jams!
This morning I will run test's opening and closing door and testing remote every time,!
Here is what I have done this morning and throughout the day! You may be correct the Water may be the Red Herring! I have opened and closed the Driver Door at least 50 times..........After doing so, sometimes the remote works sometimes it does not, mostly not! Just put a fresh Battery in the transmitter. That said there may be a loose connection, I started to get P****d off, so I let the car rest. Again no remote!
I believe the Driver Door is the Culprit, The switch to the door has been replaced, it has to be something in the Wire harness and or loose or bad ECU, the rubber Boot area, where the wires pass from front driver fender to the interior driver door looks ok, however I cannot see without taking all the parts off you recommended removing!
So now it works less and not consistent! So maybe something has almost failed?
I believe I will now think about taking your recommendations further to a non Lexus Dealer, I have already gone down that route! We have an independent Lexus/Foreign Auto Shop, I believe I will bring to them and let them start the process of elimination, again the water may not be the cause...pointing to more of the Driver door opening and closing and then remote stope working as said!
Will keep you posted!!! Hopefully your help will lead to a fix!!
Funny, I have a used SC430 2003 Driver MPX Module I purchased months ago when this all started thinking maybe that is the Culprit?
I will bring that part, also tell them if that does not fix the issue to replace the alarm module!!
Removing the interior door panel is not difficult. 2 screws on the latch side, 3 screws along the bottom in the weatherstrip, one behind the plastic trim piece of the door open handle (inside) and inside the door hidden by the window/door lock panel buttons. Two push button clips (black) under the mirror when the door meets the dashboard and the black plastic frame around the high end tweeter. There are threads with pics.
Wait, you replaced left door ECU, part number 89223-24010, with a used one when? And when did your troubles begin?
No I
Hi Bob,
No, I did not replace with used ECU. However, I did purchase a used one on E-Bay and never installed it. That said, I believe that may be the Culprit!
Appreciate the direction on removing the Door Panel, now I need to find the time to do so! I assume the Module must be plug and play?
No, I did not replace with used ECU. However, I did purchase a used one on E-Bay and never installed it. That said, I believe that may be the Culprit!
Appreciate the direction on removing the Door Panel, now I need to find the time to do so! I assume the Module must be plug and play?
Bob
Yes. A couple of retaining/mounting screws holds the ECU in place on the door. I believe two wire harness modular connectors. Each has a retaining clip you must depress as you pull the modular plug from the socket. Each one can only go in one way so there is no chance for error.
This morning car is still Garaged, Keyless entry did not work, opened the Door twice, no wireless! So it appears at the moment dead
For safety sake, cost me only 14.00. I just ordered the Security Control Module in case that may be an issue. Due to time, I am going to have a Local Shop pull the Door Panel off to inspect wires and or moisture and also replace the Door ECU Module if that is the case, which I believe it is.
If all else fails, have them also replace the Alarm Security ECU! Also, I will print out the diagrams you sent me and give to repair shop!
Just remembered something very important that happened when I first got my Car. My Wireless was not working and after reading post's, I assumed it was the Driver Door Actuator! So since my 6x9 speakers where blown out due to rot, I decided to replace the Speaker and Door Actuator at the same time!!
The Pro Audio shop who replaced my speakers, both sides, also replaced the Driver Door Actuator!! After he finished the install's the Tech called me out to the Shop to inspect and listen to speakers before he put door panels back on! At that point he said LOOK your wireless KEY entry also now works now since replacing it!
30 minutes later car was done, Tech pulled my car out front of the Bldg. Then the Manager came over and said, you saw the wireless working, I said yes! Well guess what he said, it is now not working! So at that time the car had never been washed that day, and the Driver Door was opened at least 6 times.....by myself and the Tech that morning!
So back to where we are now, I believe your are spot on that it more than likely is a bad or loose connection and or ECU!
Feel like a Jerk just remembering back on that situation:-((. I cannot wait to put this to bed, I hope!!
.....glad that you remembered this, because it may not be a moisture issue after all. It's still strange that whatever the issue is, you've noticed it more after the car has been washed or rained on. I'm glad that we've been able to throw out some suggestions/ideas & it hadn't cost you an arm & leg through the dealership............let's keep fighting this gremlin
Appreciate all of your efforts and suggestions! Question, I am trying to get up the Courage to take the Door panel off, I believe that I can do it! That said, should I disconnect the negative terminal before replacing the Door ECU? As said, When I left my car at home today, wireless was not working at all!
So my thinking was, disconnect battery, replace module and see if that makes brings system back up. To check for a loose connection, I would need power to see if re-plugging connectors works? Also, I believe I will have to remove 6x9 speaker to check for any Cable damage, etc...?
It ALWAYS better to disconnect the battery when working on anything electrical, other than changing a light bulb. Speaking of lights your need to remove the courtesy light at the bottom of the door (whole assembly pries out, then disconnect the modular plug). If you want to move the door panel aside while doing your inspection, you’ll also have to disconnect the cables for the locking and interior door open handle mechanisms, other wise there is usually enough play in the cables to rotate the panel 90 degrees and just stand it up.
Regarding the speaker, you may have remove it IF there is nothing obvious. It will be of interest to see if the interior plastic (protects the inside of the door void is still in place).
I have ave been thinking more about this and I doubt the ECU has failed they are resilient. The ECU is mounted so the modular plugs are on the bottom making it nearly impossible for water to penetrate. I suspect the wiring harness more do to the intermittent nature, a close inspection is warranted. It’s going to be frustrating so patience is necessary as you test and replace going slowly.
Correction and update!
