Successful SC430 Key Programming
10-09-17, 07:10 PM
#166
Just thought I would share my experience on this - my case was simple but some of the things I found along the way may help others. My OEM key's plastic housing cracked and so while the key would start the car, there was too much flex for my liking. I had changed the little flat battery inside the guts of the key myself recently so I knew my chip and the guts were fine. I happened to have a spare Lexus replica housing of the key with an uncut blade ( bought a long time ago and just sitting around ). Plan was to swap the guts of my cracked key to the new housing, get someone to cut the blade using the original key as a reference.
1) Went to the dealer and service adviser confirmed the plan would work and asked me to go see the parts folks to get my spare blade cut. Was told by parts that if I did not buy the spare key housing from them, they would not cut my replica blade for me because they had tried to cut other people's spare blades before and it broke their machine. Scratch one. But if I bought the new spare plastic housing from them, it would be $65 including the cutting fee. Of course !!!!
2) Went to Home Depot and asked if they could cut my spare blade - no - their machine was too simple for a complex task like mine.
3) Google searched for nearby key replacement services, got in touch with someone who was supposedly local but it turned out to be an answering service in TX for mobile locksmiths nationwide and a guy called me back to say he would do it ( coming from the next county to my house ) for $155. Obviously this guy does not know what the dealer is charging so whatever ....
4) Went to the nearby hardware store and they said because our key's are flat stamped from the factory, it was not the type of car key they could cut.
5) Finally went to a real locksmith's shop just off Main Street one town over from where I live. He took one look at what I had and he said, "Sure no problem, since you already have a blank with its own plastic housing, the cutting fee is only $20+ tax. And if you did not have a blank, I can sell you a housing with the blank blade for $35, including the cutting fee." He got it done in 5 minutes flat, I paid $21.40, went home, swapped the guts, and the car started just fine.
Moral of the story - you need to go to a real locksmith's shop. And it does not have to cost an arm and a leg. And damn ! Those mobile service guys must make a killing everytime someone agrees to use them. Unbelievable margins.
Sometimes the good old brick and mortar store front location is still the best solution.
10-10-17, 04:00 AM
#167
Been through the experience. If you find the local hardware store who has the unique cutter, life is good. Talking about the Key FOBs, i have come across a locksmith in PA who can service replacement key FOBs.
10-10-17, 04:03 AM
#168
Someone found a locksmith that can sell a virgin FOB with the cut key, using your VIN and a lot of identification requirements (obviously). The challenge is for you to program it. You will need TECHSTREAM. FYI.
10-12-17, 06:13 AM
#169
Help What method should I use
Hi need some help!
Last Saturday the remote worked on both of my master keys on the SC430. I have not driven the car until this morning, I went to open the car and nothing happens?
1) The battery in my fob I replaced?
2) The key lights will blink when hitting the buttons unlock and open trunk. Nothing more happens.
3) The car does start after manually getting in!
4) What method do you think I should use to get both of my master keys opening and closing car remotely???
Appreciate your help!
B-
Last Saturday the remote worked on both of my master keys on the SC430. I have not driven the car until this morning, I went to open the car and nothing happens?
1) The battery in my fob I replaced?
2) The key lights will blink when hitting the buttons unlock and open trunk. Nothing more happens.
3) The car does start after manually getting in!
4) What method do you think I should use to get both of my master keys opening and closing car remotely???
Appreciate your help!
B-
10-12-17, 07:17 AM
#170
It happens to me sometimes especially when the weather is warm and or the sun has been shining thus heating up the driver's door area. My door lock actuator is probably on it's last legs and will eventually need to be replaced. But hey winter is coming and I have another few months of not needing to spend the money cos my problem goes away when it is cold outside.
The following users liked this post:
hoffy5 (10-12-17)
10-12-17, 09:49 AM
#171
You got it!
Funny, I has having my car seats dyed, and later when they finished, I went to close the Top, after closing the top by habit I hit the lock button and all works now on both remotes, so the Window part you talk about may be flakey, not 100% since I have only had the car a week, I have been waiting to start driving my new/used SC2003 TAP color Ride, she has the 14700 miles on her! I will be posting new photos as soon as I can, showing the paint correction from detailer and the finished Dye work on the White leather! Looks awesome, yea cost me 1K for the paint and 300.00 for the dye all seat's!
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
10-12-17, 11:23 AM
#172
Lexus Test Driver
Funny, I has having my car seats dyed, and later when they finished, I went to close the Top, after closing the top by habit I hit the lock button and all works now on both remotes, so the Window part you talk about may be flakey, not 100% since I have only had the car a week, I have been waiting to start driving my new/used SC2003 TAP color Ride, she has the 14700 miles on her! I will be posting new photos as soon as I can, showing the paint correction from detailer and the finished Dye work on the White leather! Looks awesome, yea cost me 1K for the paint and 300.00 for the dye all seat's!
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
big job for a DIY
as for the door locks, I can almost guarantee it is the door lock actuator.
i just replaced the $10 motor in my drivers door a few months ago.
now when it is hot the drivers doors works fine but the passenger door will not lock with key fob, door switch etc. manually is the only way.
once it cools off, I will do the passenger door.
here is the door lock actuator replacement thread. I read in here somewhere, the dealer want $1000.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...r-removal.html
here is the big money dealer thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-actuator.html
Last edited by Bgw70; 10-12-17 at 11:32 AM.
The following users liked this post:
hoffy5 (10-18-17)
10-12-17, 12:00 PM
#173
its a job but you could purchase all seat leather for $600...front and back, with headrests and console lid...
big job for a DIY
as for the door locks, I can almost guarantee it is the door lock actuator.
i just replaced the $10 motor in my drivers door a few months ago.
now when it is hot the drivers doors works fine but the passenger door will not lock with key fob, door switch etc. manually is the only way.
once it cools off, I will do the passenger door.
here is the door lock actuator replacement thread. I read in here somewhere, the dealer want $1000.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...r-removal.html
here is the big money dealer thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-actuator.html
big job for a DIY
as for the door locks, I can almost guarantee it is the door lock actuator.
i just replaced the $10 motor in my drivers door a few months ago.
now when it is hot the drivers doors works fine but the passenger door will not lock with key fob, door switch etc. manually is the only way.
once it cools off, I will do the passenger door.
here is the door lock actuator replacement thread. I read in here somewhere, the dealer want $1000.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...r-removal.html
here is the big money dealer thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-actuator.html
Hi, thanks for the awesome link to replace the actuator! So what do you think happens, the grease on the Gears, possible since temperature changes then it works? I see you replaced the motors on both of your doors! DIY looks like it's some work for the weak at heart! I have to replace the 6x9 Speaker, The dealer quoted me 115.00 to replace both speakers in doors, I can have them replace the Actuator at the same time! The Dealer said as long as I source OEM Lexus parts, they would install them! So now I will look for an OEM one! Who do you get OEM parts from?
I also the post to replace the leather, for sure that looked good, however no patience for that DIY.
Thanks again for helping me!
B-
10-12-17, 01:20 PM
#174
Lexus Test Driver
Hi, thanks for the awesome link to replace the actuator! So what do you think happens, the grease on the Gears, possible since temperature changes then it works? I see you replaced the motors on both of your doors! DIY looks like it's some work for the weak at heart! I have to replace the 6x9 Speaker, The dealer quoted me 115.00 to replace both speakers in doors, I can have them replace the Actuator at the same time! The Dealer said as long as I source OEM Lexus parts, they would install them! So now I will look for an OEM one! Who do you get OEM parts from?
I also the post to replace the leather, for sure that looked good, however no patience for that DIY.
Thanks again for helping me!
B-
I also the post to replace the leather, for sure that looked good, however no patience for that DIY.
Thanks again for helping me!
B-
well, the actuator is going to be expensive, especially a new OEM. Not sure if there is an after market option.
you could go the used route, purchase one on eBay, then replace the $10 motor...the dealer would then install for you...
are you handy at all or interested in this kind of stuff?
if you have the means, let the dealer do the complete job but if money is an issue, you might want to consider attempting some of this on your own.
the speaker is very easy, if you have the ability and the OEM speaker typically only requires a reform kit for $25...again ebay.
if the dealer is replacing the speaker, make sure they replace with the OEM 8ohm speaker.
several on hear have gone the aftermarket 4ohm speakers route with no issues...I stayed with OEM.
if you decide to do any of these jobs, many here like to help because we have been there and done that...if not, I totally understand but for the sake of documentation, I would kindly ask if you would share the cost. It helps others make these decisions.
Last edited by Bgw70; 10-12-17 at 01:25 PM.
10-12-17, 04:37 PM
#175
Lead Lap
+1 what Bgw said.
Typically, the speakers' failure mode is that the foam deteriorates and can be repaired by doing one of the $25 re-foam kits. From the reports of various members on this forum, it works rather well.
With regards to the lock actuator, Bgw is right. It is probably the actuator that is acting up. Over time the internal mechanism of the motor gets dirty (probably from wear causing metallic dust). Something about when they get hot, the motor loses torque (I don't know if the heat causes it to gum up worse or that the crud inside the motor shorts out parts of the motor and makes it weaker). One member actually took his motor apart, cleaned it up and it worked just fine. You can go that route or buy new motors for <$10 (for both) and replace them. If you are not handy though, I'd recommend paying someone with experience to replace the motors. (I suspect that the dealer won't do this because the motors are a part of an assembly and they'd rather you buy a new assembly for $150 to $200 and they'd replace that.) Read over the steps as outlined in the link that Bgw included and you'll get a grasp of the scope of work involved here.
If it sounds like the lock actuator is working but doesn't unlock the lock, you can be almost certain that the problem is the motor going bad. (Try it again when it gets cooler and it will likely work. Even just leaving it out in direct sunlight will likely make it stop once it gets to this point.)
Typically, the speakers' failure mode is that the foam deteriorates and can be repaired by doing one of the $25 re-foam kits. From the reports of various members on this forum, it works rather well.
With regards to the lock actuator, Bgw is right. It is probably the actuator that is acting up. Over time the internal mechanism of the motor gets dirty (probably from wear causing metallic dust). Something about when they get hot, the motor loses torque (I don't know if the heat causes it to gum up worse or that the crud inside the motor shorts out parts of the motor and makes it weaker). One member actually took his motor apart, cleaned it up and it worked just fine. You can go that route or buy new motors for <$10 (for both) and replace them. If you are not handy though, I'd recommend paying someone with experience to replace the motors. (I suspect that the dealer won't do this because the motors are a part of an assembly and they'd rather you buy a new assembly for $150 to $200 and they'd replace that.) Read over the steps as outlined in the link that Bgw included and you'll get a grasp of the scope of work involved here.
If it sounds like the lock actuator is working but doesn't unlock the lock, you can be almost certain that the problem is the motor going bad. (Try it again when it gets cooler and it will likely work. Even just leaving it out in direct sunlight will likely make it stop once it gets to this point.)
Last edited by Harold57; 10-12-17 at 04:40 PM.
The following users liked this post:
hoffy5 (10-20-17)
10-12-17, 05:11 PM
#176
+1 what Bgw said.
Typically, the speakers' failure mode is that the foam deteriorates and can be repaired by doing one of the $25 re-foam kits. From the reports of various members on this forum, it works rather well.
With regards to the lock actuator, Bgw is right. It is probably the actuator that is acting up. Over time the internal mechanism of the motor gets dirty (probably from wear causing metallic dust). Something about when they get hot, the motor loses torque (I don't know if the heat causes it to gum up worse or that the crud inside the motor shorts out parts of the motor and makes it weaker). One member actually took his motor apart, cleaned it up and it worked just fine. You can go that route or buy new motors for <$10 (for both) and replace them. If you are not handy though, I'd recommend paying someone with experience to replace the motors. (I suspect that the dealer won't do this because the motors are a part of an assembly and they'd rather you buy a new assembly for $150 to $200 and they'd replace that.) Read over the steps as outlined in the link that Bgw included and you'll get a grasp of the scope of work involved here.
If it sounds like the lock actuator is working but doesn't unlock the lock, you can be almost certain that the problem is the motor going bad. (Try it again when it gets cooler and it will likely work. Even just leaving it out in direct sunlight will likely make it stop once it gets to this point.)
Typically, the speakers' failure mode is that the foam deteriorates and can be repaired by doing one of the $25 re-foam kits. From the reports of various members on this forum, it works rather well.
With regards to the lock actuator, Bgw is right. It is probably the actuator that is acting up. Over time the internal mechanism of the motor gets dirty (probably from wear causing metallic dust). Something about when they get hot, the motor loses torque (I don't know if the heat causes it to gum up worse or that the crud inside the motor shorts out parts of the motor and makes it weaker). One member actually took his motor apart, cleaned it up and it worked just fine. You can go that route or buy new motors for <$10 (for both) and replace them. If you are not handy though, I'd recommend paying someone with experience to replace the motors. (I suspect that the dealer won't do this because the motors are a part of an assembly and they'd rather you buy a new assembly for $150 to $200 and they'd replace that.) Read over the steps as outlined in the link that Bgw included and you'll get a grasp of the scope of work involved here.
If it sounds like the lock actuator is working but doesn't unlock the lock, you can be almost certain that the problem is the motor going bad. (Try it again when it gets cooler and it will likely work. Even just leaving it out in direct sunlight will likely make it stop once it gets to this point.)
Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!
B-
10-18-17, 10:41 AM
#177
You are correct
its a job but you could purchase all seat leather for $600...front and back, with headrests and console lid...
big job for a DIY
as for the door locks, I can almost guarantee it is the door lock actuator.
i just replaced the $10 motor in my drivers door a few months ago.
now when it is hot the drivers doors works fine but the passenger door will not lock with key fob, door switch etc. manually is the only way.
once it cools off, I will do the passenger door.
here is the door lock actuator replacement thread. I read in here somewhere, the dealer want $1000.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...r-removal.html
here is the big money dealer thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-actuator.html
big job for a DIY
as for the door locks, I can almost guarantee it is the door lock actuator.
i just replaced the $10 motor in my drivers door a few months ago.
now when it is hot the drivers doors works fine but the passenger door will not lock with key fob, door switch etc. manually is the only way.
once it cools off, I will do the passenger door.
here is the door lock actuator replacement thread. I read in here somewhere, the dealer want $1000.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...r-removal.html
here is the big money dealer thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...-actuator.html
I ordered a new Door Actuator!
11-12-17, 03:42 AM
#178
**KEY Programing update**
Hello all--
Has this happened to anybody? Here is the long story.....
After replacing my Drivers side Door Actuator, turns out, it was not defective! All I had to do was follow steps 2 on this thread to program Key Remote and then my Key would work! Performed that procedure 2 weeks ago and the remote has worked without any issues:-) The directions are spot on! Thanks for posting them!!
Yesterday, I washed my car and then proceeded to the Garage the SC. Guess what? Both of my mastery keys would not work again remotely!
Also noticed for the first time, the Dome Light would not go off! So to not drain my Battery, I then switched the Dome Light to off Door mode. Weird for sure, after 20 minutes.... I then switched back to the Door Light mode, then closed the Drivers Door and the Dome Light started to cycle normally! However both of my Master Factory Keys still would not work :-(
I tried to go back to the Programming of the Keys like I did 2 weeks ago....After multiple attempts.......... I could not program either of my master Keys! At this point I gave up and had a couple of Martini's :-) :-)
This morning I tried again the part 2 of the instructions and was able to successfully program one of my Master keys, YEA! The other master Key also now works!
I think that the Dome light is in the same circuit with the Master Keys since they work in unison! When I lost the remote, hence the Dome Light not shutting off! Some Module was confused and could not cycle off due to loosing the remote function of the Key's.
To sum up, The Car Battery has been checked, The Actuator is NEW, Both Battery's in the Key Remotes have been replaced.. The big unknown, how long will the programing last this time? Again, It worked flawlessly for 2 weeks..
Maybe the Alarm Module needs to be replaced? Or Maybe the Door Module? Or maybe a fluke? However, I do know how to program Keys, LOL
Still enjoying my new Ride!
Have a great Day!
B-
Has this happened to anybody? Here is the long story.....
After replacing my Drivers side Door Actuator, turns out, it was not defective! All I had to do was follow steps 2 on this thread to program Key Remote and then my Key would work! Performed that procedure 2 weeks ago and the remote has worked without any issues:-) The directions are spot on! Thanks for posting them!!
Yesterday, I washed my car and then proceeded to the Garage the SC. Guess what? Both of my mastery keys would not work again remotely!
Also noticed for the first time, the Dome Light would not go off! So to not drain my Battery, I then switched the Dome Light to off Door mode. Weird for sure, after 20 minutes.... I then switched back to the Door Light mode, then closed the Drivers Door and the Dome Light started to cycle normally! However both of my Master Factory Keys still would not work :-(
I tried to go back to the Programming of the Keys like I did 2 weeks ago....After multiple attempts.......... I could not program either of my master Keys! At this point I gave up and had a couple of Martini's :-) :-)
This morning I tried again the part 2 of the instructions and was able to successfully program one of my Master keys, YEA! The other master Key also now works!
I think that the Dome light is in the same circuit with the Master Keys since they work in unison! When I lost the remote, hence the Dome Light not shutting off! Some Module was confused and could not cycle off due to loosing the remote function of the Key's.
To sum up, The Car Battery has been checked, The Actuator is NEW, Both Battery's in the Key Remotes have been replaced.. The big unknown, how long will the programing last this time? Again, It worked flawlessly for 2 weeks..
Maybe the Alarm Module needs to be replaced? Or Maybe the Door Module? Or maybe a fluke? However, I do know how to program Keys, LOL
Still enjoying my new Ride!
Have a great Day!
B-
11-12-17, 06:04 AM
#179
Lexus Test Driver
I hope it continues to function for you!
did you keep the old actuator?
did you keep the old actuator?
11-12-17, 07:47 AM
#180
Yes
Hi, I kept the other one for sure, the car has 15K miles so I do not believe it has much time on it. Until I make sure all is well, keep it just in case!
Thanks
B-
Thanks
B-