SC430 HEADER INSTALL THREAD w/PICS, DYNO
Ceramic coatings does not prevent stress cracks from occurring but I'm sure you know this. Just protects from the elements which the standard coatings seemed to do a good job on.
Damn Lee, where do you find the time, with the new son and all!
But I have a question as the headers were kinda on the back of my mind. Were the cracks on the weld or did the crack develop on the tube itself?
The reason i ask is that I had problems with my stainless headers that I had on my Mr2. The metal (stainless) would crack and it would have to re-welded and then another crack formed just down of where they re-welded it. It was nightmare to say the least. I heard that this is only a problem with Stainless, with the wrong temp weld. But I'm scared of headers now. Exhaust leaks suck. Oh and your car sounded fine at the Queen Mary meet.
But I have a question as the headers were kinda on the back of my mind. Were the cracks on the weld or did the crack develop on the tube itself?
The reason i ask is that I had problems with my stainless headers that I had on my Mr2. The metal (stainless) would crack and it would have to re-welded and then another crack formed just down of where they re-welded it. It was nightmare to say the least. I heard that this is only a problem with Stainless, with the wrong temp weld. But I'm scared of headers now. Exhaust leaks suck. Oh and your car sounded fine at the Queen Mary meet.
The crack appear to be in the metal itself. Too much stress on the long runner without adequate support so the fix was to weld about 3 inches into the runner as well as rewelding everything else. I know I got good penetration with my welds so it should hold up pretty good. Should....
I wish I took pics of the finished product but my hands were dirty and did not want to get grease on the camera.
I wish I took pics of the finished product but my hands were dirty and did not want to get grease on the camera.
First time i've seen this thread and Interesting to see some dynos.
Do you have a dyno before any mods, and it seems a shame that the kickdown cant be disengaged so real torque curves are available throughout the range.
My old celica cracked its exhaust manifold (header in US speak!) although it was cast.
Cheers
Paul
Do you have a dyno before any mods, and it seems a shame that the kickdown cant be disengaged so real torque curves are available throughout the range.
My old celica cracked its exhaust manifold (header in US speak!) although it was cast.
Cheers
Paul
Tony
I would just make sure you have the latest header design. No long term mileage reports on them yet but the new weld is supposed to reinforce the weak point on the passenger side.
Lee
I would just make sure you have the latest header design. No long term mileage reports on them yet but the new weld is supposed to reinforce the weak point on the passenger side.
Lee
pearlpower... have you contacted s&s to let them know about this cracking?... maybe they can address it for the rest of us who have not bought them yet?...
thanks for all your hard work, time, and knowledge
thanks for all your hard work, time, and knowledge
Last edited by SUPRAboy80; Feb 12, 2007 at 11:41 PM. Reason: wrong word
Actually no. For one ,I do not have the time to play phone tag with those guys as many have had to do and what I had to go through just to purchase this.
Secondly, the cracking is very wide spread on the first/second batch headers. I would go as far as saying that those versions are guaranteed to crack.
From what I have read S&S will send out a replacement and have the old one picked up. But again the key is to actually get ahold of someone and my time is limited. It only took me a few minutes to weld it to better then new condition so I went that route. So far over 1k miles and no sign of cracking but I do not expect any considering I welded it pretty thoroughly.
Secondly, the cracking is very wide spread on the first/second batch headers. I would go as far as saying that those versions are guaranteed to crack.
From what I have read S&S will send out a replacement and have the old one picked up. But again the key is to actually get ahold of someone and my time is limited. It only took me a few minutes to weld it to better then new condition so I went that route. So far over 1k miles and no sign of cracking but I do not expect any considering I welded it pretty thoroughly.
i know that the o2 sensor being too short on one side of the car was an issue with the s&s headers. one of my buddies suggested a o2 simulator. does anyone know if that would work? i apologize if this has been discussed before, but this thread is huge.



