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Hi everyone this is my first time ever posting on any forum so please go easy on me
I am considering buying a 1994 Lexus SC300 it currently has about 77,500 miles on it with a price tag of 8500 after tax and title
The vehicle drove well I did feel like the shifts were happening in higher rpm’s even when I wasn’t flooring it then I found out overdrive had been on for a good part of the drive. When we got back I turned it off and back on to see and hear the motor when it started and reved. The engine moved a little when starting but stayed perfectly still after when reving. I did notice a plastic slapping coming from the fan at idle that went away when reved. The oil seemed to be at the right level and clean. The transmission fluid seemed to be clear red but I did get some black on the sides of the dipstick. The inside is super clean only things I noticed was the fuel gauge light was out but the gauge still appeared to work, the steering wheel adjustment didn’t work and there were tiny cracks in the main air vents
With all that said I do love the car and plan on taking care of it but the fact that it’s obd1 and not obd2 and the age does scare me a little. I’m worried I’m buying something that will eventually turn into a money pit with my plans on daily driving it
I bough the car fax and what mainly showed up was In 2019 the throttle position sensor, steering column, window regulators, timing belt and head gasket were replaced and engine idle/timing was adjusted. This also mentions that power steering (2020), battery and charging system (2022) were checked not many reports on the mileage are available most show up in 2019 at the different points were the vehicle was serviced and only a few oil changes show up in the report
^^ Yes, it looks to be a great low mileage example in extremely clean condition. All the services listed are for fairly common long term minor issues and the fact that they have already been addressed is a plus IMO. At 77k original miles and in that condition I can understand the asking price.
Now as to it being an OBD1 car... depending on your perspective this may or may not be a plus. It's not that hard to diagnose CEL light alerted issues on these cars since they are relatively simple to work on. OBD2 SC300/400's are not very different fundamentally from their 1992-1995 OBD1 siblings. A few minor wiring differences mostly related to O2 Sensor monitoring, OBD2 port access and a slightly more comprehensive list of codes. OBD2 complexity didn't become closer to what it is today in Toyotas until around the 2001-2002 model years.
So no, you can't run a cheap OBD2 scanner on it-- you'll have to use the paperclip method at the diagnostic port's TE1 & E1 terminals and count the CEL flashes to pull codes... but overall this should not be a deterrent if you want to own one of these cars.
Many of us, myself included, daily drive OBD1 SC300/400's without worries so long as the (relatively low) maintenance is kept up.
There are common long term issues that can come up which need addressing in all SC's (you'll have to service your instrument cluster at least once with new lighting and/or gauge repair, ALL SC300/400 ECUs should by this time get their capacitors replaced as preventative maintenance to refresh and future proof them, etc.) but we do our best to address each of those concerns with clear information here to help all owners know what to do about them. There really isn't a common SC issue that we haven't covered here and shown how to remedy back to normal function.
These are very well built and reliable cars. And at this point in time they are certainly classic cars, so do expect a little long term care occasionally... but at only 77k miles in that condition with all of the work stated being done already I think this is a good car to consider if you want an SC300.
.....
As treyedean suggests however, always get any used car checked out by your own independent mechanic before committing to purchase it (unless *you* are such a mechanic or just know the model of car you're considering very well).
The inside is super clean only things I noticed was the fuel gauge light was out but the gauge still appeared to work, the steering wheel adjustment didn’t work and there were tiny cracks in the main air vents
I wouldn't be turned off by those, as they're all extremely common issues. It's super rare to find a SC without cracks in the center vent, and about 50/50 on the LEDs being burned out on the gauge needles and the tilt/tele controls on the steering wheel. For the latter, there's a worm drive fix for the tilt that's pretty easy. The telescoping failure hasn't really been figured out by anyone.
^^ Yes, it looks to be a great low mileage example in extremely clean condition. All the services listed are for fairly common long term minor issues and the fact that they have already been addressed is a plus IMO. At 77k original miles and in that condition I can understand the asking price.
Now as to it being an OBD1 car... depending on your perspective this may or may not be a plus. It's not that hard to diagnose CEL light alerted issues on these cars since they are relatively simple to work on. OBD2 SC300/400's are not very different fundamentally from their 1992-1995 OBD1 siblings. A few minor wiring differences mostly related to O2 Sensor monitoring, OBD2 port access and a slightly more comprehensive list of codes. OBD2 complexity didn't become closer to what it is today in Toyotas until around the 2001-2002 model years.
So no, you can't run a cheap OBD2 scanner on it-- you'll have to use the paperclip method at the diagnostic port's TE1 & E1 terminals and count the CEL flashes to pull codes... but overall this should not be a deterrent if you want to own one of these cars.
Many of us, myself included, daily drive OBD1 SC300/400's without worries so long as the (relatively low) maintenance is kept up.
There are common long term issues that can come up which need addressing in all SC's (you'll have to service your instrument cluster at least once with new lighting and/or gauge repair, ALL SC300/400 ECUs should by this time get their capacitors replaced as preventative maintenance to refresh and future proof them, etc.) but we do our best to address each of those concerns with clear information here to help all owners know what to do about them. There really isn't a common SC issue that we haven't covered here and shown how to remedy back to normal function.
These are very well built and reliable cars. And at this point in time they are certainly classic cars, so do expect a little long term care occasionally... but at only 77k miles in that condition with all of the work stated being done already I think this is a good car to consider if you want an SC300.
.....
As treyedean suggests however, always get any used car checked out by your own independent mechanic before committing to purchase it (unless *you* are such a mechanic or just know the model of car you're considering very well).
so an update I called the mechanic who showed up the most on the car fax report and he did inform me that the car had blown its head gasket from overheating and it’s only been driven a 1000 miles since now I’m unsure because I have no way of knowing if anything warped
so an update I called the mechanic who showed up the most on the car fax report and he did inform me that the car had blown its head gasket from overheating and it’s only been driven a 1000 miles since now I’m unsure because I have no way of knowing if anything warped
That is unfortunate but it can be repaired back to 100% but will require getting the cylinder head decked smooth and true again at a machine shop.
If the overall car in its condition appeal to you regardless it would be good to consider whether you would want to repair it to stock specs with the NA head gasket or if you would want to instead have ARP head bolts installed (recommended) with an OEM 2JZ-GTE Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket which would lower the compression from the factory 10.0:1 down to 9.2:1 making that engine ready for a turbo. Removing the lower and upper oil pans and drilling out the un-machined turbo drain port, cleaning all the shavings away, reinstalling both pans and blocking off the turbo drain port for now would be the major things to ready the engine for an NA-T conversion. Also installing a brand new 1996+ oil pump and crank gear with the crank angle sensor wheel. As-is with those changes you can easily have a 400-450whp car with other accompanying modifications.
Regardless of whether your interest is in just keeping it stock or in making it turbocharged later on it's still in great physical condition.
If on the other hand it's more than you'd want to get into right off the bat that is understandable too. Looking at this example it is tough because it has such low original mileage and is in such great condition aside from the couple of minor things and the major head gasket issue.
And yes, as t2d2 said the cracked vents on these cars are very common. It's due to Toyota's lack of foresight installing plastic right up against real solid wood with very different expansion and contraction properties in hot weather with cold A/C air rapidly going against both. If you look on eBay there is a seller there who makes good quality 3D printed replacement bezels that can be installed.
As he also mentioned we have got a very easy and cheap fix for a broken steering column tilt function but the telescope function hasn't been community solved yet. We recommend adjusting the column where you want it and then using the manual "OFF" switch on the side of the column to minimize wear and tear on the motors and gears.
so an update I called the mechanic who showed up the most on the car fax report and he did inform me that the car had blown its head gasket from overheating and it’s only been driven a 1000 miles since now I’m unsure because I have no way of knowing if anything warped
That is unfortunate but it can be repaired back to 100% but will require getting the cylinder head decked smooth and true again at a machine shop.
If the overall car in its condition appeal to you regardless it would be good to consider whether you would want to repair it to stock specs with the NA head gasket or if you would want to instead have ARP head bolts installed (recommended) with an OEM 2JZ-GTE Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket which would lower the compression from the factory 10.0:1 down to 9.2:1 making that engine ready for a turbo. Removing the lower and upper oil pans and drilling out the un-machined turbo drain port, cleaning all the shavings away, reinstalling both pans and blocking off the turbo drain port for now would be the major things to ready the engine for an NA-T conversion. Also installing a brand new 1996+ oil pump and crank gear with the crank angle sensor wheel. As-is with those changes you can easily have a 400-450whp car with other accompanying modifications.
Regardless of whether your interest is in just keeping it stock or in making it turbocharged later on it's still in great physical condition.
If on the other hand it's more than you'd want to get into right off the bat that is understandable too. Looking at this example it is tough because it has such low original mileage and is in such great condition aside from the couple of minor things and the major head gasket issue.
And yes, as t2d2 said the cracked vents on these cars are very common. It's due to Toyota's lack of foresight installing plastic right up against real solid wood with very different expansion and contraction properties in hot weather with cold A/C air rapidly going against both. If you look on eBay there is a seller there who makes good quality 3D printed replacement bezels that can be installed.
As he also mentioned we have got a very easy and cheap fix for a broken steering column tilt function but the telescope function hasn't been community solved yet. We recommend adjusting the column where you want it and then using the manual "OFF" switch on the side of the column to minimize wear and tear on the motors and gears.
All I will add to this thread is that patience pays. I bought my car less than a year ago and paid slightly more than what you’ve quoted here, albeit with higher mileage, but was a more desirable color, more collectible and three years newer. I looked for a car for 6 months before pulling the trigger.
I personally think you’ll regret that gold color. It’s by far the least desirable color and you’ll have a hard time selling it. I would advise you keep looking.
Nick
Last edited by CLass of 1; Aug 18, 2022 at 07:19 PM.
Need advice on purchase
