Coil Pack Connector and throttle connector plastic clips very brittle and broken. All the clips subject to heat have become terribly brittle.

What to do?

see pics...

 

You're going to need to buy a new set of connectors and solder them in place of the old once. You're going to need the following tools:
Soldering iron
soldering flux (highly recommend not skipping this)
solder
mesh for cleaning the tip of the soldering iron ( you can substitute this with a wet/damp papertowel and wipe off the tip that way but if you plan on doing a lot of soldering in the future i recommend investing into this, its only a few bucs)
heat gun
heat shrink tubing to isolate each individual cable as you solder it and a heat gun to shrink them into place (if you don't have a heat gun you can get around it by using the soldering iron itself and lightly brush it against the tubing. The soldering required isn't too complicated but in order to do it right and avoid cold solder joints and connection issues in the future you need to make sure to do it right. As for where to get the connectors themselves, that i don't know. I'm sure they are readily available though, you just need a part number. This is something i will likely be dealing with in the near future as well. I plan on doing plugs and coils on my car next week and hopefully none of the connectors break in the process.

 

It's generally not necessary to solder them. If you can find the part number printed on the connector and order the same one (i.e., not a generic connector, in which case you have to replace both halves), then the terminals can be de-pinned and moved over to the new connector. There's usually a plastic locking piece that has to be pulled out to free up their plastic spring clips, and some of the weatherproofed ones like pictured require prying out the rubber plugs.

 

^^ For the 2JZ-GTE and 1JZ-GTE the coil pack connectors are 90980-11246. Unless the wires have brittle or otherwise damaged you can use a small metal pick tool to release the connector catches on each terminal end and reinsert them into the new connector. Just make sure you are dead sure which is Pin 1 and which is Pin 2 when inserting each of them into the new connector.

If your wires have failing or cracked insulation then as - V - suggests you will need to replace the wire ends with new ones and use proper wire bonding technique with soldering to finish them off. And you do not want to forget to buy some assorted small heat shrink tubing from some place like Harbor Freight and put the tubing on far away down the wire *before* soldering. Then you need to use a cheap heat gun on that tubing once it's in position over the soldered wires.

That GTE ignition coil pack connector uses two Toyota 090-II terminal repair wires with the large style seals. You can find this many places online such as Driftmotion or Wiring Specialties or you can just reference the connector part number at any local Toyota dealer parts counter and ask them to also source you the two terminal repair wires that match it (which they will be able to look up based on the connector part number).

You'll probably need to unwrap that part of the harness a bit to get to the bare wires. Use some Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape (Lowes, Homes Depot, etc.) or order a couple rolls of Tessa #51036 tape (what Toyota dealer service techs use to re-wrap harnesses).

...

It's hard to tell from that picture but is the other broken connector for your GTE throttle position sensor (TPS)? If so that one should be 90980-10711. That you can also order from a Toyota dealer or Driftmotion and Wiring Specialties carry it as well.

 

^^ This. And if you can find a printed number sequence on ANY Toyota connector you will need to add "90980-" to the beginning of it and that will give you the actual full part number that you can order at any dealer.

For example, if a connector has "12345" printed on it you would actually call it "90980-12345".

 

The other connector on the throttle body that is broken is shown in this picture 2JZ-GE...

 

I have been doing soldering, but I have long been looking for measuring pincers that are safe and effective in checking electric currents without stripping wires. Regardless of whether you are a homeowner or a professional electrician, you can use pliers to troubleshoot and solve electrical problems. I chose the pliers with the function of automatic clamp selection. The readings were accurate every time I used them. In addition, a bright LCD screen makes viewing results easy. I was able to use them to test AC and DC voltages, continuity, resistance and diodes. Therefore, I can recommend this tool, you can see more here https://solderingironguide.com/revie...-clamp-meters/

 

All of these harness connectors are still available. I had to replace all the coilpack connectors on my IS300 and I still need to do a couple more like the MAF, APPS, and the PS sensor. Everything becoming brittle with age is a huge flaw with the VVTI motors.

 

 

Does anybody have a list of the common connectors last five digit part numbers? For example:

• Fuel injector
• TPS
• IAC
• Knock sensor
• Both temp sensors

I usually just tie-wrap them to make sure they stay plugged in, but it would be nice to have the new connectors.

 

I have a few written down, taken from the list Curt Aigner originally posted on SF for MKIV Supra owners:

90980-11166 Knock Sensor
90980-11144 iac motor (I think this is NA and TT and not TT specific but not 100%)

I don't have the rest of those you requested separated out for the NA GE engines at this point in my notes.

Driftmotion and Wiring Specialties will carry all of these too.

For any of these the thing you can do is wipe off any grime and take a bright flashlight to look all over the connector housings until you find the five digit numbers on them.

 

I forgot you said they sometimes have the number on them. I have two or three spare harnesses I will see if any have the numbers. Thanks

 

I have replaced almost all the connectors, I can't think of any I haven't at this point but I have not made a comprehensive list, i might work on that. KVS looms on ebay has a kit that covers about 60% of them for about $85 its not a bad deal i used some connectors supplied by them and they are fine.

Here is VVTi Solenoid connector (notice the dielectric grease I apply to the connector this makes the new ones slip on real nice), the new one which is white I got from the dealer (genuine Toyota), they told me there were 27 in stock nationwide.

 

There should not be any trouble getting these kinds of replacement engine harness connectors. They’re in such common use by many Toyotas.

The only connector part numbers on the SC that I have found aren’t made any longer are the manual transmission style seat heater switch connectors. And maybe some obscure ones such as connectors for the factory phone system that do not have standardized Toyota part numbers on them.

Pretty much everything else.... as long as you can actually identify the last five digits on an old connector you can source them and the correct matching repair terminals for each.

 

Yes!

While Toyota only had 27 of the OEM VVTi connectors in stock nation wide there are other sources even for this connector, I had no problem sourcing whatever I needed.

I would suggest considering getting the part from the dealer because they are about the same cost as sourcing aftermarket ones like the OEM VVTi connector was $12, just about what you would end up paying from a third party after shipping and all.