Quick question, love the sound of the front speakers in my 98 SC300, the sub is definitely working but seems to have a narrow Q, or frequency that it actually operates, which means that in order to get a little bit of "thump" you have to turn up the bass to a point where it overdrives the rear speakers just a little, and of course when you back off enough to keep the rear deck speakers under control the sub sounds like it's not even on

The car does NOT have the Nakamichi audio so I am not sure how many ohms the system operates at, and subsequently what I can do to regain some mid-bass in my rear deck speakers and perhaps a louder sub (just a little bit as I like my sound balanced, not "ghetto bassy". Any suggestions would be great, for reference, I think the 2000 I30 Bose system had an almost perfect sound, along with the 2008 IS350 Mark Levinson (which I actually do have in my 350 )

 

I have a '95 SC400 with the Pioneer system and my sub has 1 ohm stamped on the bottom. I'm got an aftermaket head unit and have the factory sub amp hooked up to the head unit. I have to cut my bass down into the negative numbers. So it don't drown out my rear speakers.

 

I replaced the rear mids with 2-way 6x9s to improve the bass and high frequency response in the rear cabin. After finding a 10" sub, though, I would have simply replaced the OEM mids with 2-way mids that have the same fitment. Obviously, the aftermarket sub requires a new amp, but it was all worth it: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...ml#post9159889

 

Not exactly true. You could easily put in a Dual Voice Coil sub where both coils are 2ohms and wire them in parallel to get 1 ohm (for Pioneer systems.)

 

I don't think you'll find a dual voice coil sub in a 3.325" depth like the single voice coil MTX FPR10-02. If you do, please post the manufacturer and model. I'm sure many forum members would like that info.

The MTX 10" Thunder is the only one I could find that fits in the OEM subwoofer bracket. Even then, I had to open the rear deck hole to accommodate the sub.

 

I was just talking electrically, fitment issues are probably similar to your 6x9's in that you might need to cut some metal and/or fabricate some mounts. Even if the depth isn't a problem, a particular sub might not mate up to the stock bracket, anyway. The Rockford Fosgate R2SD2-10 is just shy of 3.5" of mounting depth, same with the Kicker 40CWRT102. If you want to spend a bit more the Helix Esprit E10W has a 3.125" mounting depth.

 

I guess that's my point. I could not find a 1-ohm sub (dual voicecoil or not) that fit in the OEM subwoofer bracket. Reusing the bracket is more than half the battle if you're looking for a sub "replacement" per the OP's thread subject line that will permit fitment of the sub dust cover/brake light and reuse of rear deck facade cover.

Admittedly, an electrical replacement is also important, but when faced with swapping out the amps versus re-engineering the subwoofer mount, I prefer the former over the latter.

 

Well, my Galaxy S5 has a pretty extensive equalizer, I was able to cut out some of low bass frequencies (150hz), not the sub-bass frequencies (120hz and under), and it cleared up nicely. Sounded like the crossovers were placed somewhere near 130-150hz, causing some of the "sub bass" frequencies to bleed into the full-range drivers. Taking down these lower bass frequencies separated the sub and full-range speakers so that none of the full-range drivers were getting any of those lower frequencies (for which they were clearly not designed for). It's actually sounding VERY nice, a lot like my 1996 Infiniti I30 stereo, which I know probably doesn't sound impressive but was a great sounding stock system (despite the car it went into or the name, "BOSE", that was affixed to the components).