Checking and re-checking everything...

1) I measured the resistance on the coils.

Passenger side:
1.0 ohms between two input connector pins
9.4k ohms between each input pin and the output plug

Driver side:
1.0 ohms between two input connector pins
12.2k ohms between each input pin and the output plug

I believe those should be 0.4 to 0.5 between the input pins and 10-14k between each input pin and the output plug. I'm sort of in that range, but a) the resistance between pins seems suspicious unless it's just my cheap multimeter not reading accurately that low, and b) the passenger coil looks a bit weak?

I didn't pull the Driver side coil, since its bracket is much tougher to get to, but the Passenger one is OEM Denso, part #19080-50010. That's either a good thing (replaced with OEM parts) or a bad thing (189,000 miles on the original part)...

2) I took another look at the IAC Valve, having cleaned it thoroughly two weeks ago. Everything's spinning freely, but I lubed it just to be safe. I did notice one rather concerning thing that I missed previously: the black housing is cracked! This friggin' car is going to be the death of my sanity. It looks like someone glued the exterior portion of the crack that extends through the connector area. It doesn't take much to allow air to leak through... It certainly can't be good to leave it that way. Adding a new IACV housing to my WTB list.

So far this week, I've found the following damaged items in about a 6" x 6" area of the engine bay:

- cracked base on the coolant temp. sensor (ECU)
- broken clip on the coolant temp. sensor's plug
- bare wire on the coolant temp. sensor's plug
- broken clip on the passenger side coil's plug
- broken clip on the passenger side crank sensor's plug
- broken clip on the single-wire coolant temp. sensor's plug (gauge cluster)
- bare wire on the single-wire coolant temp. sensor's plug
- cracked IACV housing