The uneven drop problem
The uneven drop problem
Hey guys I just traded my megan coils for a set of supra strut/enkie springs and have noticed the infamous "the driver's side is a tad lower than the passenger's side" issue.
The difference appears to be 3/8" on the driver's side. There is enough stud on the struts to fit spacers so I think this should work well.
I have an idea, fab a few 1/8" spacers and use them between the strut tower and strut plate. My plan is to get some 1/8" steel and washers of the right inner diameter and fab up some plates (6).
If this works well I might have some cut out of aluminum. This could be a great option for those of us not wanting to run coilovers due to ride quality (and not being able to drop 2K on some KW V3's of course).
Anybody ever done this before? Should function the same as a wheel spacer only require less structural rigidity since our suspension doesn't do anything except sit there at the shock tower.
UPDATE: I've got some pricing and I can provide the rear strut tower spacer for $27 + shipping IF five people want to get on board. The more people that want them the cheaper they will be.
I'm considering having the front bracket made out of billet as well but that'll probably be a lot more costly.
Would anybody be interested in the spacer or the while kit?
The difference appears to be 3/8" on the driver's side. There is enough stud on the struts to fit spacers so I think this should work well.
I have an idea, fab a few 1/8" spacers and use them between the strut tower and strut plate. My plan is to get some 1/8" steel and washers of the right inner diameter and fab up some plates (6).
If this works well I might have some cut out of aluminum. This could be a great option for those of us not wanting to run coilovers due to ride quality (and not being able to drop 2K on some KW V3's of course).
Anybody ever done this before? Should function the same as a wheel spacer only require less structural rigidity since our suspension doesn't do anything except sit there at the shock tower.
UPDATE: I've got some pricing and I can provide the rear strut tower spacer for $27 + shipping IF five people want to get on board. The more people that want them the cheaper they will be.
I'm considering having the front bracket made out of billet as well but that'll probably be a lot more costly.
Would anybody be interested in the spacer or the while kit?
Last edited by Albatross; Aug 23, 2014 at 08:41 AM.
Took some measurements and the studs have a little less than half an inch of extra after the nuts are on (in the rear). So far I think I need 9 1/8" thick washers with a 5/16" inner diameter and 3/4" outer diameter which I will tack together to form my triangle spacers.
The plan is to use the old set of coilovers as a template to tack together my spacers (so they are perfect) before I ship them back to their new owner. I'll post pics of the process.
The plan is to use the old set of coilovers as a template to tack together my spacers (so they are perfect) before I ship them back to their new owner. I'll post pics of the process.
HY!
i had the same problem, the car have a different geometry on the front suspension. we measured a different by the lower shock support holder, the was more to inside as the on the passenger side. i think, this problem comes from the original japanese suspension for RHD and is only adapted with different front springs (yes, the SC have different on front original)
my solution was:
make a slot in the lower holder for the shock, like this, i think, the was 5-6mm
and then, weld 2 car body washer (sorry easy translation from german) on this holder, befor, test it on the car and measure if its enough
i bought longer screws to have the same length thread in the arm
move the lower holder to the wheel side, the lower arm goes easy upside to the front bearing, with this 5-6mm and the spacer, comes the sid good 10mm up to clear the difference.
with this modification, the car stands straight, feels in curves left and right similar (before, the left side goes more down) and drives perfect! i have supra bilstein shocks with eibach springs installed. with this "upgrade" you have on left and right the same geometry, don´t give spacers on the upper support, the makes the car higher, but repairs not the underlying cause.
greets
Tom
i had the same problem, the car have a different geometry on the front suspension. we measured a different by the lower shock support holder, the was more to inside as the on the passenger side. i think, this problem comes from the original japanese suspension for RHD and is only adapted with different front springs (yes, the SC have different on front original)
my solution was:
make a slot in the lower holder for the shock, like this, i think, the was 5-6mm
and then, weld 2 car body washer (sorry easy translation from german) on this holder, befor, test it on the car and measure if its enough
i bought longer screws to have the same length thread in the arm
move the lower holder to the wheel side, the lower arm goes easy upside to the front bearing, with this 5-6mm and the spacer, comes the sid good 10mm up to clear the difference.
with this modification, the car stands straight, feels in curves left and right similar (before, the left side goes more down) and drives perfect! i have supra bilstein shocks with eibach springs installed. with this "upgrade" you have on left and right the same geometry, don´t give spacers on the upper support, the makes the car higher, but repairs not the underlying cause.
greets
Tom
Last edited by Boergy; May 15, 2014 at 02:20 PM.
Are you saying that when you did this mod it also made the driver's side rear the same as the passenger's side?
I'm just trying to understand. If the problem is the mount is 5-6mm off from the passenger's side why did you add the washers?
Thanks for the information!
I'm just trying to understand. If the problem is the mount is 5-6mm off from the passenger's side why did you add the washers?
Thanks for the information!
Last edited by Albatross; May 16, 2014 at 05:24 AM.
hy!
oh.. longtime ago i have done this
i think, the position of the hole for the shock on the holder are lower as on the passenger side. a friend measured my suspension/chassis and this was the solution the have no more differences between left and right
oh.. longtime ago i have done this
i think, the position of the hole for the shock on the holder are lower as on the passenger side. a friend measured my suspension/chassis and this was the solution the have no more differences between left and right
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Wow, someone needs to sticky this thread because it fixed my problem. All I did was follow boergy's instructions and my rear end is identical with my front end passenger's being like 1/8" of an inch higher (after checking a few times I decided if I have to look that closely its probably within acceptable margins for error).
Anyhow, this is THE fix for the uneven drop problem and I couldn't find it without posting this thread. I also used the much longer 10x1.25 40 metric bolts but they are standard hardware (grade 5 or so) and not grade 8 since I couldn't find any grade 8 bolts in that thread pitch. I'm not sure its necessary since there are 2 bolts and there doesn't appear to be much lateral load on them. I could have reused the stock bolts but I figured losing 5mm of thread might not be the best idea.
If someone could speak to my bolt question to give me a definitive answer that would be awesome. thanks boergy!
Anyhow, this is THE fix for the uneven drop problem and I couldn't find it without posting this thread. I also used the much longer 10x1.25 40 metric bolts but they are standard hardware (grade 5 or so) and not grade 8 since I couldn't find any grade 8 bolts in that thread pitch. I'm not sure its necessary since there are 2 bolts and there doesn't appear to be much lateral load on them. I could have reused the stock bolts but I figured losing 5mm of thread might not be the best idea.
If someone could speak to my bolt question to give me a definitive answer that would be awesome. thanks boergy!
hy!
I used 10.9 in M10x1.25, grade 8.8 is a standard, but for suspension is 10 better, do not use stainless, the are too recalcitrant and can brake. my bolts are seperate built in a company for bolts/screws,... thats not a standard bolt here in europe
i found this shop, here can you by a 10.9 in the correct length -> touch me but i have no information, how long i had made the new bolts
i think 40-45mm complete length with the head.
great that i could help to fix the problem here a link to my project thread
greets
Tom
I used 10.9 in M10x1.25, grade 8.8 is a standard, but for suspension is 10 better, do not use stainless, the are too recalcitrant and can brake. my bolts are seperate built in a company for bolts/screws,... thats not a standard bolt here in europe
i found this shop, here can you by a 10.9 in the correct length -> touch me but i have no information, how long i had made the new bolts
i think 40-45mm complete length with the head.great that i could help to fix the problem
here a link to my project threadgreets
Tom
Last edited by Boergy; May 17, 2014 at 02:26 PM.
well I did the front and after about 60 miles of driving the driver's rear was still 1/8" lower than the passenger's side so I made a 1/4" spacer for the strut tower. My wish list now includes a plasma cutter, I basically used washers and some metal stock to piece together a ring sandwiched between the two factory strut tower covers.
I'll report back with the results after tomorrow's commute so the spring s can settle.
stay tuned
I'll report back with the results after tomorrow's commute so the spring s can settle.
stay tuned
Nice mod. I think alot of people just go coilovers for this reason, but interesting to know the difference from side to side I wondered why mine sit crooked also for quite a while now I know why people say you can fix it with coilovers because you can adjust the height difference there.
i just dropped my car and although it's a subtle difference the pass. side is higher than the drivers. Seems like a very easy fix, might throw some spacers on when i go relocate my harness. Good info!
to Boergy: why did you decide to weld the spacers on instead of just leaving them as they are? With the right sized spacer i wouldn't worry about it moving around or shifting, just seems welding spacers seems a little over the top. Just curious
to Boergy: why did you decide to weld the spacers on instead of just leaving them as they are? With the right sized spacer i wouldn't worry about it moving around or shifting, just seems welding spacers seems a little over the top. Just curious
Last edited by StiCk3; May 20, 2014 at 06:18 PM.
stick, welding the washers in place turns 6 points of slip (arm to washer to washer to bracket x 2) into 1 point of slip with 2 bolts through it (arm to bracket). I did the same thing except I used some metal stock.
My rear spacer ended up being .25" thick and after putting 60 miles on the car the rear is PERFECT. The front driver's side is still about 1/8" lower than the other side but since they're both very low its hard to tell. The rear was the most noticible difference.
Mission accomplished. If someone wanted to cut a spacer out of quarter inch billet that would be perfect for the rear.
My rear spacer ended up being .25" thick and after putting 60 miles on the car the rear is PERFECT. The front driver's side is still about 1/8" lower than the other side but since they're both very low its hard to tell. The rear was the most noticible difference.
Mission accomplished. If someone wanted to cut a spacer out of quarter inch billet that would be perfect for the rear.
I just made this adjustment since I have coilovers, I just adjusted the front drivers side to be 1/8th" higher than the rest and viola, the ride height is even all around. Such a nice easy fix. Handling definitely feels more balanced unlike before.