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NEED HELP fender rolling sc300

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Old May 30, 2013 | 12:35 PM
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Default NEED HELP fender rolling sc300

So I was rolling the rear fenders first and I stopped once I noticed this. Where the screws used to be holding the liner in along the fender lip, they don't roll evenly, not sure why but you can see it in the pics. My fenders aren't wavy and there's no paint cracks but it looks uneven.
You can see in the second picture where the screw was and then there's that little dip right below it, it's on every spot where there used to be a screw


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Old May 30, 2013 | 12:46 PM
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It's really hard to avoid that imo. Some people just shave the rears instead. And people like me who just shoved a pole because I broke an east wood roller trying to pull lol. Remember to hammer those nips above the rolled lip to get more tire clearance!
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Old May 30, 2013 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidddd
It's really hard to avoid that imo. Some people just shave the rears instead. And people like me who just shoved a pole because I broke an east wood roller trying to pull lol. Remember to hammer those nips above the rolled lip to get more tire clearance!
Thanks man ill try to work on it a little more but do you know if its the same issue in the front? And would hammering the top part damage the quarter panel at all?
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Old May 30, 2013 | 12:55 PM
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No it wouldn't, at least not with mine, I gave up at one point cause it was really tiring. (I went at it for a while with a sledge). To be honest. I forgot how the front was. I remember at the body line part it got a little messed up but if you're careful it shouldn't be a problem. Go slow with the front and take your time with the heat gun. The metal for the front fenders are easier to work with.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 01:19 PM
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Bend that back and cut it out. If you roll hard your outside fender will get real wavy.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidddd
No it wouldn't, at least not with mine, I gave up at one point cause it was really tiring. (I went at it for a while with a sledge). To be honest. I forgot how the front was. I remember at the body line part it got a little messed up but if you're careful it shouldn't be a problem. Go slow with the front and take your time with the heat gun. The metal for the front fenders are easier to work with.
Thank you, ill try it out and see what happens
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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:35 PM
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ya the wave happened to me too:/
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Old May 30, 2013 | 09:51 PM
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did u remove all of the inner pieces that the screws are supposed to screw into? You remove the lining and then you need to remove the female part where the screws go into.

looks like u did but just making sure

Last edited by 1WILLY1; May 30, 2013 at 09:55 PM.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 1WILLY1
did u remove all of the inner pieces that the screws are supposed to screw into? You remove the lining and then you need to remove the female part where the screws go into.

looks like u did but just making sure
Yea I did do that, I'm not sure why it's not rolling evenly though, is it thicker metal on those spots or what? I might pull it back out, cut those parts and roll again
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Old May 30, 2013 | 10:52 PM
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yea man the metal is probably less resistent there or something, i think most times when people pull they end up having to do a little body work after to get it perfectly smooth.

Good luck, i never used the eastwood roller so I have no advice to help.
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Old May 31, 2013 | 03:02 AM
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Yeah, I eventually gave up with the roller and found a pole.. Paint was chipping already so I decided I'm just going to bondo it in the future and get a full repaint.

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Old May 31, 2013 | 03:15 AM
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i did mine with a standard hammer and a steel mallet, ud be surprised how smooth you can get it, and you have a ton of control over how extreme of a roll/ pull you want.
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Old May 31, 2013 | 06:52 AM
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I found out, after rolling mine with the Eastwood, the rears are much easier and came out perfect for me. The fronts are a different story. They buckled a bit where the screw holes were and I couldn't get them completely flat. My suggestion is to roll the rears and shave the fronts. That will be my course of action the next time I go at it with another SC.
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Old May 31, 2013 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JasGS350
I found out, after rolling mine with the Eastwood, the rears are much easier and came out perfect for me. The fronts are a different story. They buckled a bit where the screw holes were and I couldn't get them completely flat. My suggestion is to roll the rears and shave the fronts. That will be my course of action the next time I go at it with another SC.
I would do the opposite. If you shave the front, it'll weaken the fender. You'll buckle it up when the wheel rubs against it.


To OP, I had those dimples on the rear. I ended up doing a slight pull to clear my new wheels and they went away. Put the roller at about 12 degree and pull it slightly. You'll get an even amount of pull against the edge. Right now your just pushing the lip up and thats causing it to pull that tab up. Good luck
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Old May 31, 2013 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by thm8d
I would do the opposite. If you shave the front, it'll weaken the fender. You'll buckle it up when the wheel rubs against it.


To OP, I had those dimples on the rear. I ended up doing a slight pull to clear my new wheels and they went away. Put the roller at about 12 degree and pull it slightly. You'll get an even amount of pull against the edge. Right now your just pushing the lip up and thats causing it to pull that tab up. Good luck

Thank you I will def try that out and hopefully it helps!
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