So Ali you have a good point TT would work cause the gasket is gonna make it 8.5:1 and it is turboed. Hmmmm I might do that and get neo safc

 

adding a tt hg to a ge piston setup gives you around 9:2:1 compression..optimal setup would be using a gte piston and ge hg with the better arp studs which will yield around a 9:6:1 compression so there you are using piston dish to lower compression as opposed to raising deck height

 

I imagine you could get 400 or so out of 440s but being at a very high duty % if not max. Why 660s though??? go for a TT ecu with 550cc injectors and adjust fuel with a simple afc.

dont quote me on that one but i imagine tt ecu with an safc could pull 450 no problem

edit: just realized ali beat me to it hahah

 

almost, its around 9.2:1 which still runs perfect on the TT ecu, just reduce base timing from 10 degrees to like 7-8 degrees when installing. thats what I run right now and suddenly my SC went from my least reliable car on an AEM (just couldn't getting it started below freezing), to now my most reliable vehicle and at the same time my fastest vehicle.

On point as always, if you are running good pump gas the TT headgasket will be a good choice for higher boost levels. The 9.6 route:1 route is the most optimal in terms of squish, but you may not be able to boost as high on pump.

no worries, I would recommend the 550's or the least amount of injector that will get you to your goal with some safety room. The more you increase injector size, the less good the GTE ecu will drive in normal driving. The max I have heard of it being still decent is 660's, but there are other types of ppiggybacks that claim 770's (vpc) and 1000cc (map ecu) but I dont know how these drive.

One thing I noticed about duty cycle, once the TT ecu gets close to full boost it literally just goes to its max safest duty cycle on the injectors, because my gauge goes 10:0 rich at a certain point and doesn't get any leaner even with my boost at 14 psi now. Im sure its not 100 percent duty cycle, its whatever toyota decided was the safest max duty cycle, and this duty pulse does not change when you install larger injectors, only changes when you use a fuel controller to adjust it (which usually people do when the install larger injectors).

Point being, you can turn up the boost on your 440's till you get a safe desireable airfuel ratio at max boost something like mid 11's. This will be "maxing out" on your 440's because past a certain point the ecu injects the same max amount of fuel. this is not dangerous because the stock ecu does not run the injectors at a dangerous duty cycle just cause you turned up the boost. it will always inject the same amount of fuel past like 12 psi of boost.

That being said you can install 550's or 660's and reduce this duty cycle via an safc (remove % all across the map on low), and it will run similarly as it did before, but now you have room to run more boost keeping a safe AFR and a safer duty cycle, as it is unlikely in most cases that the extra fuel you add in with larger injectors will be larger than the original duty cycle. unlikely but not impossible though.

 

Wow!!! So much awesome information! this is exciting stuff!

Ok. So 550 would be ok. HEHE Save me some money I understand what youre saying by going OVER the amount that I need.

I really want to do the ARP HEADSTUDS and TT GASKET cause I dont want to change the pistons yet.

So right now. Im gonna go read up on the modding a TT into my car. So ill definitely post back here after I learn more about it. Dont wanna yap things I dont truly understand.

Question while im here. I read that the GE intake manifold produces more torque than the GTE intake manifold, however I see people selling the GTE "like" intake manifold for the GE. I guess airflow is easier for the GT intake cause i dont have to wrap and bend the intercooler from the right all the way to the left.

Long story short how much torque is more torque and what about the Throttle body? Would I have to redo the cable?

 

So the head in the GTE is for sure different.

Cause if the GE and GTE head was simliar than changing the gasket and the pistons would make it 8.5 since the bottom ends are the same. Correct?

And you still havent called me -.-

 

ge and gte combustion chambers are different . doing the tt hg with ge pistons is fine , i was just illustrating what a optimal setup would be ..actually using gte pistons and hg lowers you beyond 8:5:1 and actually makes setup MORE prone to detonation

 

alot of us just do the tt headgasket and arp headstuds. thats the most common setup you will see on a na-t wanting to run more boost and holds 5-600hp quite well.

the ge intake produces a little more torque and gets you a little more spool when using the GE ecu that controls the intake (not sure if the tt ecu can control the stock intake yet). its not that noticeable though and couldnt be more than 5-10 ft/lbs and thats purely a seat of the pants guess. you will loose that probably with the tt ecu mod but its not that important.

The FFIM for most is an aesthetics upgrade unless you have a turbo with a 3" compressor outlet and 3" intercooler and piping. the stock throttle body is 2.75" roughly, so you can see how a larger throttle body would help in that scenario. most of the entry level kits though have 2.5" compressor outlets and 2.5" piping and if thats the case you wont see much benefit from the FFIM. Only things that will benefit will be intake temps and easier access to injectors and plugs.

Its alot of work to go FFIM, new throttle cable, new throttle cable mount, removing a whole bunch of stock vacuum stuff, relocating the battery, getting the idle valve welded on or adapted, then routing all your new piping and setting up a vac block for your accessories or drilling and tapping the ffim for that. where you are now, the last thing I would worry about is the intake. the stock intake performs very well with a turbo, just make sure you have a good intercooler as the only issue the stock manifold has other than the size thing is the intake air temps will be hotter.
get a turbo blanket and wrap your charge pipe where it sits on top of turbo and you will be fine.

 

Ok so i'm going to drop the 600s to 550cc and just do the arp headstuds and gasket

i'm going to try AEM FIC if anything I will go ems.

 

why are these cars so expensive to make fast? Lol

 

It's not these cars. It's any car in general. You gotta play to play. You don't want a cheap fast car

you can only have two of three. Cheap Fast Reliable. Pick two

 

I would definitely say save up and try to catch a deal on an AEM V1. I went from a map ECU to the V1 years ago on an NA-T supra and it definitely was like a night and day difference.

 

My car at 350 is plenty fast and feels really fast. It feels more secure than other cars ive had with higher HP that felt fast.