Detailing my SC
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Detailing my SC
I've been planning to give my car a good detailing ever since I got it last year but never got around to it. Today I went and checked with a local shop and they want $250 for a full detailing which would include wash,wax, interior/exterior and buffing.
I decided it would be better to do it myself rather than pay a ridiculous amount of money, but my only concern is the buffing. I really want to buffer it so I can remove a lot of the imperfections, but i'm not sure how to do it.
Should I just buy a mechanical car buffer and some compound and apply it after I wash the car, then finish it off with a wax and clay bar?
Any other advice pertaining to detailing or recommended products would be great.
I decided it would be better to do it myself rather than pay a ridiculous amount of money, but my only concern is the buffing. I really want to buffer it so I can remove a lot of the imperfections, but i'm not sure how to do it.
Should I just buy a mechanical car buffer and some compound and apply it after I wash the car, then finish it off with a wax and clay bar?
Any other advice pertaining to detailing or recommended products would be great.
You got the order wrong.....
Ideally, you want to:
1. wash
2. clay
3. polish (buff)
4. seal
5. wax (1-3 coats)
Honestly, if you want to use good products, it will cost you MUCH more than $250 to even gather up the supplies you need (for the exterior alone).. heck the rotary itself will cost you at least $200 for a decent one and a nice one like a Flex or Makita is $350+ and remember you still need to buy compound, sealant/wax (preferably both), clay, clay lube, masking tape, etc.... There is a reason detail jobs are not cheap... $250 is actually a good price if the detail is half decent.
Ideally, you want to:
1. wash
2. clay
3. polish (buff)
4. seal
5. wax (1-3 coats)
Honestly, if you want to use good products, it will cost you MUCH more than $250 to even gather up the supplies you need (for the exterior alone).. heck the rotary itself will cost you at least $200 for a decent one and a nice one like a Flex or Makita is $350+ and remember you still need to buy compound, sealant/wax (preferably both), clay, clay lube, masking tape, etc.... There is a reason detail jobs are not cheap... $250 is actually a good price if the detail is half decent.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Well, I already have quality wax, wash and polish, easily on par or better than what my local detail shop would use. As for the interior, I really don't need much done to it. The back seats are close to pristine since they have rarely ever been used, the front can use a little cleaning, but its also in very good condition as is.
My only concern is finding a quality buffer, I found this one on amazon and it has excellent reviews
http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Tool-...3063215&sr=8-6
I really don't want to spend more than $150 and still get a decent detail, if possible.
What do you think?
My only concern is finding a quality buffer, I found this one on amazon and it has excellent reviews
http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Tool-...3063215&sr=8-6
I really don't want to spend more than $150 and still get a decent detail, if possible.
What do you think?
Here is the best detailing machine available for under $250.00:
http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-7...3064381&sr=1-1
No doubt, a dual action random orbital machine by Flex is the best, but these cost >$300.00.
I say spend the money once and do it yourself. Once you have a good buffer and the correct pads, you will save megabucks in the long run, doing it yourself.
http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-7...3064381&sr=1-1
No doubt, a dual action random orbital machine by Flex is the best, but these cost >$300.00.
I say spend the money once and do it yourself. Once you have a good buffer and the correct pads, you will save megabucks in the long run, doing it yourself.
I also suggest using a Porter Cable buffer. If you're not familiar with rotary buffers, you could damage your paint.
You may want to check the detailing board on here for the best advice though.
You may want to check the detailing board on here for the best advice though.
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+1 on the porter cable.... if I was gonna get a buffer on a budget, I would get that one without any doubt.
I HIGHLY recommend www.detailingbliss.com for all your detailing needs.
If you wanna get a cheap alternative to clay lube.... I seriously reccomend ONR (optimum No Rinse) with water mixture... What you do is buy a gallon of ONR and use a ratio of 1/2 OZ. ONR into a 32oz. sprayer bottle and fill the rest of the bottle with regular water. A gallon of ONR is only like $40 but it will last you for like 10+ years if you clay your car about twice per year. Much cheaper than buying one 32oz bottle of quick detailer in walmart for about $10. Another alternative to clay is Bilt Hamber, you use regular tap water as lube, but you can only get that stuff from England.
Some other stuff I would reccomend:
Collinite Wax 815 (easier to apply than 476) or 476 (harder to apply but last about twice as long)... I tried alot of waxes, this stuff cannot be beat for the money. Period.
Blackfire Wet-Diamond paint sealant.... really amazing stuff... can be used on paint and windows. I put this stuff on the glass and going 40mph+ the rain glides off like butter.... it's amazing.
I HIGHLY recommend www.detailingbliss.com for all your detailing needs.
If you wanna get a cheap alternative to clay lube.... I seriously reccomend ONR (optimum No Rinse) with water mixture... What you do is buy a gallon of ONR and use a ratio of 1/2 OZ. ONR into a 32oz. sprayer bottle and fill the rest of the bottle with regular water. A gallon of ONR is only like $40 but it will last you for like 10+ years if you clay your car about twice per year. Much cheaper than buying one 32oz bottle of quick detailer in walmart for about $10. Another alternative to clay is Bilt Hamber, you use regular tap water as lube, but you can only get that stuff from England.
Some other stuff I would reccomend:
Collinite Wax 815 (easier to apply than 476) or 476 (harder to apply but last about twice as long)... I tried alot of waxes, this stuff cannot be beat for the money. Period.
Blackfire Wet-Diamond paint sealant.... really amazing stuff... can be used on paint and windows. I put this stuff on the glass and going 40mph+ the rain glides off like butter.... it's amazing.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: florida
You got the order wrong.....
Ideally, you want to:
1. wash
2. clay
3. polish (buff)
4. seal
5. wax (1-3 coats)
Honestly, if you want to use good products, it will cost you MUCH more than $250 to even gather up the supplies you need (for the exterior alone).. heck the rotary itself will cost you at least $200 for a decent one and a nice one like a Flex or Makita is $350+ and remember you still need to buy compound, sealant/wax (preferably both), clay, clay lube, masking tape, etc.... There is a reason detail jobs are not cheap... $250 is actually a good price if the detail is half decent.
Ideally, you want to:
1. wash
2. clay
3. polish (buff)
4. seal
5. wax (1-3 coats)
Honestly, if you want to use good products, it will cost you MUCH more than $250 to even gather up the supplies you need (for the exterior alone).. heck the rotary itself will cost you at least $200 for a decent one and a nice one like a Flex or Makita is $350+ and remember you still need to buy compound, sealant/wax (preferably both), clay, clay lube, masking tape, etc.... There is a reason detail jobs are not cheap... $250 is actually a good price if the detail is half decent.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: florida
and u can get a good buffer at your local harbor freight for about 20 bucks...i never cheap out on tools. but for a buffer idc at all it spins fast and in circles and is reliable? thats all i care about
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: NY
You got the order wrong.....
Ideally, you want to:
1. wash
2. clay
3. polish (buff)
4. seal
5. wax (1-3 coats)
Honestly, if you want to use good products, it will cost you MUCH more than $250 to even gather up the supplies you need (for the exterior alone).. heck the rotary itself will cost you at least $200 for a decent one and a nice one like a Flex or Makita is $350+ and remember you still need to buy compound, sealant/wax (preferably both), clay, clay lube, masking tape, etc.... There is a reason detail jobs are not cheap... $250 is actually a good price if the detail is half decent.
Ideally, you want to:
1. wash
2. clay
3. polish (buff)
4. seal
5. wax (1-3 coats)
Honestly, if you want to use good products, it will cost you MUCH more than $250 to even gather up the supplies you need (for the exterior alone).. heck the rotary itself will cost you at least $200 for a decent one and a nice one like a Flex or Makita is $350+ and remember you still need to buy compound, sealant/wax (preferably both), clay, clay lube, masking tape, etc.... There is a reason detail jobs are not cheap... $250 is actually a good price if the detail is half decent.
hes right
Good luck to you!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Alberta
+200 on profesional cleaning. You can do it yourself, and it turns out alright. having someone to do, who does it multiple times and knows exactly what their doing. O man, 100% worth it. I paid 300 to have my companies pontiac torrent detailed on the inside...best 300 bucks ever spent. The stains were removed, of all drywall, mudding stuff, etc. It seriously looked like I just picked it up off the lot from day 1. Well, except the outside 