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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:05 PM
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Default Head Stud question

So Ive been driving the GTE for about 3 months now and I want to go ahead and re check the torque on the Arp's. My question can I just remove the valve cover and slip a socket down in there. I ask because when I removed the head (OEM) i HAD to remove the cams to get the studs out. Its getting cold really don't feel like disassembling and doing timing over
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 04:17 AM
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cams have to come out
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 06:15 AM
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yeah the bolts are under the cams so you would have to take them out again.
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 07:21 AM
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Thanks guys,
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 08:08 AM
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Just turn up the boost some, if it doesn't blow the torque is probably still good =)
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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I would just retorq the head studs and be done with it.
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 02:33 PM
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^ haha if I turn the boost up anymore im gunna rip this tranny apart and be out of a car lol 14lbs is enough for now. Ya I still have a little smoke when I sit at a light for a while or when I first start the car up, my guess is valve seals so I might do those. So for another question if I remove the head to do that and install will I need another re-torque of the head haha?
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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if you remove the fasteners completely, then yeah its not really re-torquing. I'm in the same boat, a few months on new headgasket w/ arps. I don't think i'm going to re-torque, if it blows ill just replace the gasket, its only a few more steps than re-torquing.
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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Is re-torquing a procedure done often? Or is it mainly with newly installed headstuds?
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ashtray
Is re-torquing a procedure done often? Or is it mainly with newly installed headstuds?
I'd like to know this as well. I also have arp head studs on my freshly built gte swap.
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 06:56 AM
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I pulled the head of the my block last week and i tell you , i can break those nuts loose without alot of tq.
I originally torq them down to 90lbs but but i was taking them off i didn't not feel like 90lbs seriously.
There is a thread on SF about the whole retorq thing , and i was going to do mine but end parting out the car.

Next time i build another engine i will use the Stock headbolts...
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 03:01 PM
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^ parted it out? what happened?
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 03:52 PM
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If you do the valve seals, I highly recommend the toyotools VSS tool. It is kinda expensive, but REALLY made the job a piece of cake.

The only thing you may need to do is drill a small hole in the handle of it. The machining on it is so precise, when you go to flip the tool insert over, it will form a suction and can be a PITA.

Like 10 seconds to drill a small hole, and it allows the suction/pressure to bleed off so the tool is easy to flip.

http://www.toyotool.com/VMT6%20Buy.htm
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by SC51
^ parted it out? what happened?
I don't time to work on the SC, New Job, and i have new Plans for 2011 stay Tune
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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Aiight Good Luck and keep us updated.

As For studs they give some grease like solution with the studs I did put that on, I wonder if people use loktight.
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