SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

Do not change ur fuel filter!!!!!!

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Old 08-30-10, 01:43 AM
  #61  
adl16v
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Nice I never had problems with mine its been like that for months anyways many FI cars run hose clamps from the factory. They usually even have the crappy kind that you remove with pliers I usually swap them out to the stronger type with the screw since I dont trust the other type after I remove it once.
Old 08-30-10, 03:49 AM
  #62  
MIGS
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Originally Posted by tjcetanyan

One can of throttle body cleaner to check for vacuum leaks, one can of B12 chemtool fuel injector cleaner, one tank of fresh fuel, and 14 miles later... all hiccups are gone!
No vacuum leaks, but it is running tip-top now. What a day!
maybe it's your maf sensor going bad.

yeah, it went away..for now, but it might start acting up again later. if this does happen, it might be the maf sensor. thats what happened to me. it went away for a while, then the shiddy idle came back, so i replaced the maf, car runs great.

figured i'd throw this out there for ya, just in case.

Last edited by MIGS; 08-30-10 at 03:53 AM.
Old 08-30-10, 08:02 AM
  #63  
good2go
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Originally Posted by adl16v
Nice I never had problems with mine its been like that for months anyways many FI cars run hose clamps from the factory. They usually even have the crappy kind that you remove with pliers I usually swap them out to the stronger type with the screw since I dont trust the other type after I remove it once.
Actually, those are the good kind; they maintain constant tension through hot and cold expansion cycles and hose compression through age degradation, whereas the worm screw type are just a fixed compression and can't automatically adjust as hose conditions change. The screw type will leak sooner!
Old 08-30-10, 11:40 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by good2go
Actually, those are the good kind; they maintain constant tension through hot and cold expansion cycles and hose compression through age degradation, whereas the worm screw type are just a fixed compression and can't automatically adjust as hose conditions change. The screw type will leak sooner!
I used a screw type, but it wasn't the worm screw clamp. It is a special compression clamp made specifically for FI lines. Easy installation, no problems. I will also try replacing the MAF and some ignition components. I am definitely running rich, but no codes are showing. I will post a pic of the new setup I have for the filter.
Old 08-30-10, 11:50 AM
  #65  
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Default New filter, lines, and clamps

Here is the new filter installed. The liquid dripping is NOT fuel. It is cleaner. Hope this thread helps a few people out. It was definitely a lot more involved than I had anticipated, but once I had a new plan, couldn't have been much easier.
Just remember, if you cut the line, you will need to ensure all edges are clean and smooth so that you don't contaminate the new fuel or destroy the new line.
Attached Thumbnails Do not change ur fuel filter!!!!!!-snc00136a.jpg  
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Old 08-30-10, 12:13 PM
  #66  
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Default Old filter

This is the discharge from the old filter... After 3+ minutes of flushing! At first it was thick and murky, almost like mud. I had time to go get the camera, set the exposure, and snap the picture, and still it never ran clear. This is much clearer than what first came out. Wish I would have had the camera then. So glad I went ahead and changed it, even though some people said "if it won't come out, tighten back up, and forget it". I am sure after all of this, she will run much much better.
Attached Thumbnails Do not change ur fuel filter!!!!!!-snc00135a.jpg  
Old 08-30-10, 12:31 PM
  #67  
CASANOVA86
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Yo I just changed mine on Saturday thank god I was on "E" aka empty but either way my arms where f ucking on fire dude its ridiculous.
Old 08-30-10, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tjcetanyan
... So glad I went ahead and changed it, even though some people said "if it won't come out, tighten back up, and forget it". ...





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Old 08-30-10, 01:08 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by CASANOVA86
Yo I just changed mine on Saturday thank god I was on "E" aka empty but either way my arms where f ucking on fire dude its ridiculous.
LOL, yeah, the chemical burns suck, but it's what we do. We are "car guys" and we don't quit, just because of a little hazardous material on the skin!
Old 08-30-10, 07:58 PM
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Real car guys are smart enough to get their arms clear of raw gasoline pouring down their arms, thus causing the top layer of skin to deteriorate.

What you guys are doing by cutting your lines and adding rubber hose with 4 hose clamps and a universal filter falls nothing short of a "HACK JOB". Call me a *****, call me what you will, but its the truth. If you cant get your fuel filter off without cutting the fuel lines, why are you doing it in the first place?

Perhaps not penny-pinch and pay someone to do it, and if they result to cutting and adding hoses and hose clamps, demand the job be done for free. I can tell you right now, nowhere in Lexus' repair manual does it say, "Cut lines, add AUTOZONE hose clamps".

Perhaps the fuel lines are flared from being over tightened. Remove the lines, destroy the OLD filters threads, before installing the new filter, file down the excess flare on the lines before re-installing. BOOM problem solved.

For you folks in the east with uber-rusted lines/filters. Don't replace your filter until you need to. Falls back on the basis of "if it ain't broke, dont fix it". When you really think you need to replace it, invest in the right tools to do so. Dont just hack it with what you have, cuss and curse whilst getting 1st degree chemical burns. Use your tools as an investment to offer your local Lexus owner a helping hand to replace his filter, etc. Learn from it.

Dont use your ignorance as a chance to tell everyone not do to what you simply couldn't.
Old 08-30-10, 10:17 PM
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^^ go on, tell us what you really think
Old 09-03-10, 09:22 AM
  #72  
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I think it is sometimes funny to listen to what people have to say when all resources are available to them. Some of us do prefer to work on our own cars, and regardless of the outcome, we learn. Sometimes it is a simple task that is easily accomplished, other times it is a painstaking process and a "keep it running" situation.
I know, without a doubt, that repairing the line in this fashion is not "correct", however, I did what I had the time, money, and knowledge, to keep my car running well. Now, for those of you with money to throw at something, fine, but my car is on the road, not sitting in my garage with an empty tank whilst I figure out how to pawn off my problems on someone else.
When I can afford to replace the line with the correct parts and find the time to do so, I will. Until that becomes an option for me, I will deal with what I have.
"REAL" car guys overcome adversity and have an indistinguishable drive that keeps them learning and doing whatever it takes to get the job done, even if it is just a temporary fix.
Old 09-05-10, 05:42 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by topdog849
i lol at all of you that get soaked in gasoline, your all forgetting the first step to release the pressure in the system. before you remove the filter pull the fuel pump fuse out from under the hood and try to start the car till it stalls. also wait till your nearly out of gas.
+ one million for using common sense.

It may not stop gas leaking completely but you won't loose 4 or 5 gallons of fuel.



Rusted bolts and smashed flare endings are a different problem of course.
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Old 01-16-11, 11:57 AM
  #74  
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Glad I just read that fuel pump fuse bit...i am tackling this tomorrow maybe!
Old 05-08-11, 09:06 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by SCDanny
Been there done that! Gas in the pits is a very surprising pain.
That's not as bad as when I change my friends fuel pump we had a big bucket of gas we drained from the tank, he held the funnel while I poured it in but some spilled and for some reason right on his crouch it took about 30 seconds absorb in but then he whined and cried for hours.


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