Does CA put acid in the fuels out there or what? Only time I've ever had any discomfort was with E85 that I was running in my MR2 (that's a hard car to work on). Liquid maize pulls the moisture out of you skin pretty quickly. It stung a but, but I just rinsed with water and was fine. Normal old dinosaur juice has never bothered me. I'll even use it as hand cleaner sometimes if I'm out of brake kleen.

 

I read this thread some days ago and I knew I needed to change mine and everyone was saying "ohh it sucked and all" but I said to myself "Well it cant be that bad." soo I went to change it today and ummm... lets say I got my AZZ KICKED by the lex. I am one furious negro tonight jah know...

But after a couple hours I got it done, no burns though lol

 

Am I just being a Pu**y not wanting to brake the line or strip the fittings, or has anyone else encountered this problem.
The fittings break free on each side, but after about 3/4 turns, they stick like I am tightening them ( and for the record, no, I am NOT turning them the wrong way. )
What am I missing here? I have never had a problem like this...

 

Could just be corrosion built up around the line causing the fitting to bind. Just need to spray some lubricant and work it till it's loose.

 

Will try saturating it for a few hours over the next couple of days. I really just don't understand why it will start just fine, but won't continue after 3/4 turn... Willing to give anything a try at this point. Maybe after the races tonight I'll have a bit less fuel in the tank as well.
I will be sure to post results either way. PB Blaster, here I come.

 

IDK if this is your situation or not, but I have seen something similar with flared brake lines doing that when they were over-tightened at some point. What happens is the flare on the end of the metal tubing gets smashed out to where it binds with the guts of the flare fitting and causes resistance as you try and back the nut off. Like I said, it may not be what you're dealing with, but I thought I'd throw it in there for what it's worth. G/L

 

This is what I did and it works just fine.

 

I just changed mine runs like a champ I had to cut my fuel line a little to fit in some FI hose and a 300zx fuel filter so its just hose clamps and no bolts to worry about

 

Well, it seems that the penetrating oil didn't change a thing. I left it soak overnight, and today the same problem. It may be, in fact, what was suggested, that the fittings may have been overtightened.
What kind of clamps do you use with the FI hose to hold the pressure? Looks like this is the route I might be taking...

 

If I'm not mistaken you should never use hose clamps on a fuel injected vehicle.

just my .02

 

Let me bring some light on the issue of Toyota fuel filter so you gentlemen do not have to stumble in the dark for whole two pages.
Older Toyota fuel filters use two types of fittings, banjo type with large drilled through bolt and two washers. Hardly problem with those.
Second type is troublesome flare type fitting. SC have filter with two POS flare fittings.
What is the problem with about 50% of more of the filters? As fitting was tightened in the factory sealing surface EXPANDED over the conical sealing end fuel filter have (get filter look inside). This expanding part is binding with the thread, preventing flare nut from unscrewing freely. (This explain why after breaking loose more or less easy nut is geting gradually stuck after half of more free turn).
My advice, for preventive maintenance filter changes, try to unscrew, if start to bind hard torque it back on and forget about it.
If you get flare out anyway file expanded part of the fitting and it will screw in easily.

 

The issue seems to be just that... The flaring must have expanded. The major problem with this, is that I have just turned over 200k miles. The fuel that has spilled from the inlet side of the old filter, even without completely disconnecting the fitting, the fuel is foul and murky. I have had acceleration problems over the past 6k or so and have been waiting to do this since then. Now I am having idling problems and acceleration problems are even worse, so this HAS to be done. Ever since breaking the seal, it has become even worse yet. Hopefully replacing the filter with an inline universal will work, at least for the time being.
I appreciate everyone's feedback and will post my results.

 

Yep, that's just as I expected. Are the nuts 'turn-able' at all once you encounter the resistance? If they are, you may well be able to slowly work them back with some additional manhandling (in the withdrawal direction, of course) of the tubing as you go; that's what I had to do with the brake lines. Remember, the threads are ahead of the over-flared part of the tube, so, if you can, work those threads back bit by bit, dragging the flare end through (bringing up the rear, as it were). Don't worry about the treads on the filter being damaged by the flare because the filter will be replaced. Your trouble is going to be having to deal with all the gas dripping while you attack it. It may be a good idea to do as some have suggested and pull the fuel fuse and run the engine to relieve the pressure; maybe even siphon off the tank too. If worse comes to worse, you can always cut the tube behind the nuts and re-flare the new ends. If there's not enough slack to bend the tube to make up for the shortened lengths, you can add some length with the appropriate union splice.

Basically, it is a b*tch, but it's definitely a do-able job!

 

I ended up cutting the lines and using fuel line from the parts store with a universal filter. At least if I ever have to do this again, it will only take a few minutes. This was seriously one of my biggest "small" tasks. Didn't have much of an issue losing much fuel, about 2 qts overall.
The issue is, now, the car is still rough at idle and under acceleration, like it is misfiring. I don't know what is causing this, but I will be checking all of my vacuum hoses and connectors under the hood.
For the record, the filter was definitely an issue. The fuel that came out of the inlet side looked like mud. It was thick and nasty. I guess 200k will do that! I must wish good luck to anyone else undertaking this task.

 

One can of throttle body cleaner to check for vacuum leaks, one can of B12 chemtool fuel injector cleaner, one tank of fresh fuel, and 14 miles later... all hiccups are gone!
No vacuum leaks, but it is running tip-top now. What a day!