Official ECU thread
My problems/symptoms-
1. On cold start ups, rpm bounces between 1000-2000 or idles high. sometimes the idle drops as the car warms up sometimes it doesn't. When the idle does drop, it drops slowly to zero and then stalls(happened a lot to me).
2. Very strong fuel smell on start ups and when car is running
3. car stalls, only starts up if I keep my foot on the pedal, once released it stalls every time.
4. check engine light stays on when the car is running, and when I try to pull the codes, nothing shows.
5. when driving 40mph+, car jerks when I let off the gas pedal.
6. when coming to a stop car jerks
I replaced my spark plugs, spark plug wire, maf sensor, idle air control valve, and cleaned the throttle body but still didn't fix my problem.
So can anyone help me out?? anyone experience the same symptoms or replace their ecu before??
Good Info from TheMole below:
http://www.siaelec.com/index.asp?Pag...S&Category=380
There are also a few companies on ebay that fix ECUs and offer a lifetime warranty on their work.
Last edited by grindin8o8; May 14, 2010 at 12:25 AM.
I actually still have the spare ECU from the running car if you want it, let me know. The car it was in had 70k and he pulled it to install an AEM.
The toyota crown majaesta was only availible in Japan. That car came with a 1uz-fe but the biggest difference is its ecu had no transmission control that was left completely up to the control of a completely seperate transmission ecu.
My question is could that ecu be used on a manual swapped V8 in the US but still be scanned by an ODB2 scanner if it was a 97+ ecu?
My problems/symptoms-
1. On cold start ups, rpm bounces between 1000-2000 or idles high. sometimes the idle drops as the car warms up sometimes it doesn't. When the idle does drop, it drops slowly to zero and then stalls(happened a lot to me).
2. Very strong fuel smell on start ups and when car is running
3. car stalls, only starts up if I keep my foot on the pedal, once released it stalls every time.
4. check engine light stays on when the car is running, and when I try to pull the codes, nothing shows.
5. when driving 40mph+, car jerks when I let off the gas pedal.
6. when coming to a stop car jerks
I replaced my spark plugs, spark plug wire, maf sensor, idle air control valve, and cleaned the throttle body but still didn't fix my problem.
So can anyone help me out?? anyone experience the same symptoms or replace their ecu before??
grindin8o8,
Where are you in Hawaii?> My eldest is stationed on Oahu. Oh, I wish I was there right now ...
As for your issues ... you probably are having ECU issues. I went rhough similar issues with my 93 SC4.
I am at work right now but can provide the info you need to diagnose and correct this evening. Hit me up and I'll explain it all later ...
My problems/symptoms-
1. On cold start ups, rpm bounces between 1000-2000 or idles high. sometimes the idle drops as the car warms up sometimes it doesn't. When the idle does drop, it drops slowly to zero and then stalls(happened a lot to me).
2. Very strong fuel smell on start ups and when car is running
3. car stalls, only starts up if I keep my foot on the pedal, once released it stalls every time.
4. check engine light stays on when the car is running, and when I try to pull the codes, nothing shows.
5. when driving 40mph+, car jerks when I let off the gas pedal.
6. when coming to a stop car jerks
I replaced my spark plugs, spark plug wire, maf sensor, idle air control valve, and cleaned the throttle body but still didn't fix my problem.
So can anyone help me out?? anyone experience the same symptoms or replace their ecu before??
OP,
Try the following and report back:
Remove your IACV. Note the position of the plunger (is it all the way out?). Take IACV apart and note condition of bearings. Clean IACV with carb/choke cleaner, reassemble (with plunger all the way in) and re-install onto engine. Start car. Does the car run with foot off the gas? If yes then try next step below.
Let engine warm for 30 seconds. Turn engine off. Wait 30 seconds. Try starting engine again. Does car run well or sluggishly? Turn off engine again. Wait 30 seconds. Start engine a third time. Does engine run at all?
The IACV is a 100+ position stepper motor air valve whose position is set by the ECU. My ECU was bad so the IACV would stay closed (when it should have been open). When I was having problems with my car I would take my IACV off and reset it (plunger in), reinstall and the car would run fine. After a few minutes the engine would set it closed, stalling the engine. If I turned it off the ECU would automatically (incorrectly) close the IACV, causing it to cough and then ultimately stall.
Also, because the ECU was bad ... it would never throw an error code.
Let me know how it goes ...
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Try the following and report back:
Remove your IACV. Note the position of the plunger (is it all the way out?). Take IACV apart and note condition of bearings. Clean IACV with carb/choke cleaner, reassemble (with plunger all the way in) and re-install onto engine. Start car. Does the car run with foot off the gas? If yes then try next step below.
Let engine warm for 30 seconds. Turn engine off. Wait 30 seconds. Try starting engine again. Does car run well or sluggishly? Turn off engine again. Wait 30 seconds. Start engine a third time. Does engine run at all?
The IACV is a 100+ position stepper motor air valve whose position is set by the ECU. My ECU was bad so the IACV would stay closed (when it should have been open). When I was having problems with my car I would take my IACV off and reset it (plunger in), reinstall and the car would run fine. After a few minutes the engine would set it closed, stalling the engine. If I turned it off the ECU would automatically (incorrectly) close the IACV, causing it to cough and then ultimately stall.
Also, because the ECU was bad ... it would never throw an error code.
Let me know how it goes ...
So does anyone have a 93 sc400 ecu for sale? parts number 89661 24230??? lmk. I'm so close to selling my sc400 for $1800 but if the ecu does fix this problem, im definitely keeping it. crosses finger
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My 93 uses the exact same ECU as yours ... the 24230. I did my research and the costs/risks involved with the ECU are interesting. First, a new ECU will run you $1,500 at the stealership. You can find one on eBay for about $120 or so ... but there is risk involved with this option. I've bought two (2) ECUs off of eBay. I got lucky with the first as it immediately fixed my problem. I then found a killer deal on a second 24230 on eBay for less than $50 so I grabbed it. When I received it I immediately swapped out my known-good ECU for the spare and started her up. The car ran fine except the ECU would throw a traction control error all the time. The ECU was bad.
Try finding an ECU on eBay that allows for a return should it be found to be bad. I have a feeling that may be your ultimate problem. I am considering having my original ECU rebuilt so that I have a spare ... but again, there is a risk that this procedure will not fix the problem. My car has less that 55K miles on it, the ECU is pristine and still it went bad.
I've been told that two things kill the ECUs: bad capacitors and water intrusion.
Good luck.
Try finding an ECU on eBay that allows for a return should it be found to be bad. I have a feeling that may be your ultimate problem. I am considering having my original ECU rebuilt so that I have a spare ... but again, there is a risk that this procedure will not fix the problem. My car has less that 55K miles on it, the ECU is pristine and still it went bad.
I've been told that two things kill the ECUs: bad capacitors and water intrusion.
Good luck.
http://www.siaelec.com/index.asp?Pag...S&Category=380
There are also a few companies on ebay that fix ECUs and offer a lifetime warranty on their work.
I would focus on the model number only and forget compatibility. If you currently have a 24230 in your car now ... then you should be safe replacing it with an ECU with the same model number ... no matter whether the car is an SC3 or 4.


