Tilt steering repair
11-14-10, 08:48 PM
#226
I recently purchased my SC300 and the telescoping and tilt had worked perfectly. The battery was old, so I had replaced it. I put the key into the ignition (didn't turn it yet)...The steering wheel telescoped out and then gave a loud buzzing/grinding noise when trying to tilt down. It had me very confused that the replacement of my battery caused it to fail in tilting? I will try this DIY Repair tho and I hope it works. I'm just puzzled, but thank you for the information!
11-19-10, 09:24 AM
#227
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Thanks for sharing
Your information was easy to follow and worked. Being a male -- the pictures are a tremendous help. The video is tremendous. Thanks again!! It works now that I have followed your advice. Saved a ton of money.
My power tilt came to a grinding halt yesterday ...the kind with a grrrnching sound anyway I looked on the forum since I remembered seeing a post on the subject before anyway I was able to repair the problem and took a couple of pictures since I could not find any procedures in the factory repair manual.
The first step is to remove the clam shell around the steering column which is held in place by 3 phillips screws, two on the bottom and one on the face which is pictured (you will have to turn the wheel 90 degreees to the right to remove the screw)
The first step is to remove the clam shell around the steering column which is held in place by 3 phillips screws, two on the bottom and one on the face which is pictured (you will have to turn the wheel 90 degreees to the right to remove the screw)
11-28-10, 12:49 AM
#228
so ive gotten the washers in and what not .. but the up and down fucntions do not work at all. it goes in and out just fine though.
got it working ! the next day i was driving and decided to give it one last try .. so i just pushed the joystick thing in the up directions like 10 times. up .. up .. up . up.. and then down down down .. etc. and it worked !
got it working ! the next day i was driving and decided to give it one last try .. so i just pushed the joystick thing in the up directions like 10 times. up .. up .. up . up.. and then down down down .. etc. and it worked !
Last edited by White_Sc; 11-29-10 at 11:25 AM.
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dconviser (10-04-22)
01-20-11, 06:48 AM
#231
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How do you fix this if the Motor is not making the grinding noise? I think something is wrong with my motor because it will not move or make a sound. I need to tilt the steering to remove the cluster.
http://www.rottenbox.net/photo/img00...context=latest
http://www.rottenbox.net/photo/img00...context=latest
01-20-11, 10:03 AM
#232
RCM, I'm having the same problem. My tilt motor will move down very slowly just a little bit and then stop. It is quiet (I did the washer thing years ago). It reaches a point where it just will not move anymore at all. The telescope function does the same thing, although I can coax it along by pulling on the wheel. I posted a question about this quite awhile back and never got a reply. Since both functions were having a problem I figured it must be the controller so I picked one up on eBay but it didn't fix the problem. I took the steering column cover off, disconnected the tilt motor and applied power directly and it still does not work, so the motor is bad. I guess they just give out after awhile. If you get at the gears (where the washer is) you can lower the wheel manually. I need to get my cluster out too because I have a burned out bulb that's been driving me crazy. I'm hoping the wheel is out far enough now and I can finish lowering it manually. Good luck!
01-31-11, 12:02 PM
#233
Driver School Candidate
Tilt Steering Repair Success
Thanks, guys, for a great post. I feared, per the OEM manual, I'd have to take the entire column out, drill out the headless bolts, yada yada yada.
On the failure, I figure there must have been some type of soft sponge spacer holding the gear in place - sponge so as to help reduce noise, what the design of this car is all about. There was a black-ish gook behind the gear - telltale signs of disintegration of something, just like when the foam turns to mush around the air ducts. I used two nylon spacers (0.58" ID, 0.96" OD, 0.07" thick) making up 0.15" needed to rebuild the gap. A garden hose washer would have also worked. I also used a caliper to determine the proper distance to the center of the worm.
My steering had been iffy since I bought the car at 189k. Now it works better than it ever has.
BTW; if you need to rebuild your alternator it's a breeze; surf for an auto electric place in Spring Hill, FL; $35.90 + shipping for the replacement INR733P rectifier. I had a bad battery (don't drive the car much and it drained completely) that blew the rectifier.
On the failure, I figure there must have been some type of soft sponge spacer holding the gear in place - sponge so as to help reduce noise, what the design of this car is all about. There was a black-ish gook behind the gear - telltale signs of disintegration of something, just like when the foam turns to mush around the air ducts. I used two nylon spacers (0.58" ID, 0.96" OD, 0.07" thick) making up 0.15" needed to rebuild the gap. A garden hose washer would have also worked. I also used a caliper to determine the proper distance to the center of the worm.
My steering had been iffy since I bought the car at 189k. Now it works better than it ever has.
BTW; if you need to rebuild your alternator it's a breeze; surf for an auto electric place in Spring Hill, FL; $35.90 + shipping for the replacement INR733P rectifier. I had a bad battery (don't drive the car much and it drained completely) that blew the rectifier.
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phil0909 (03-28-21)
05-21-11, 02:56 AM
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Fixed my tilt today...
Great thread...My tilt started grinding about 2 days ago.
Once I had the plastic gear out using 2 bent wire ends as a puller it looks like the original design has a spring washer behind the gear. With the worm gear racking the gear everytime the motor changes direction, over time the spring washer begins to flatten out. I used 2 5/8" split collar clips. Total width was 10mm or about half of a dime width. At first I thought the plastic gear had worn but, I believe the way the gear is torqued by the worm gear, it is sliding left and right on the shaft and eventually slides out of spec.
Total parts...$1.50 and 1hr labor. Thx guys.
Once I had the plastic gear out using 2 bent wire ends as a puller it looks like the original design has a spring washer behind the gear. With the worm gear racking the gear everytime the motor changes direction, over time the spring washer begins to flatten out. I used 2 5/8" split collar clips. Total width was 10mm or about half of a dime width. At first I thought the plastic gear had worn but, I believe the way the gear is torqued by the worm gear, it is sliding left and right on the shaft and eventually slides out of spec.
Total parts...$1.50 and 1hr labor. Thx guys.
