Okay, so it says that it uses all of the factory sensors or whatever....well does that mean it runs off the MAF? I want to know if I need a map sensor or not. I am a little bit confused/

 

are you looking at the one for a 2jz-ge or a gte?

Main reason to go standalone with a ge motor is to delete the maf and go to a map setup.

 

Exactly. Going NA-t.

 

The V1 & V2 both require you to convert to a MAP sensor and are not completely plug & play. See this link. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...d-1-sc300.html

 

I got the 30-1100 i just have to switch a couples of wires around and wire the Map and AIT sensor.
It's PNP to the factory harness but it's a littl e wiring involve and i think it's better than Haltech and the others where you you have to rewire the whole thing and it's doing use all the factory sensors.
I would get the V1 unless you have $1800 to spend on the V2.

 

You used the 1100 on the GE motor? Can you explain what involved.

 

Just move a couple wires around maybe 2 or 3 easy stuff man, AliSC3 is using the 30-1100 also for the past year.
Works great.

 

yup, its the exact same as using an 1101 box. both require you to wire up a map sensor and an iat sensor. you can load the 1101 na-t cal perfectly to the 1100 box, and vice versa
The 1100 box is much easier to find and you can get a better deal on one, especially on SF.

 

I got my 1101 box for $900 shipped with the AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor and a GM IAT off of SF.

 

The big feature of the V2 is sequential fire ignition- no more wasted spark so you dont need to buy an ignition amp

 

yeah, it has a lot of bugs from what i have heard though. maybe in the future its worth getting but most people wont be able to find someone to tune it to run great. thats why i got v1. check with your local tuner.

the cheap way out is to just buy vvti coils, then you wont need any ignition amplifiers.
and if you are still using the distributor with the aem ems, you are running sequential ignition.