As the title states my fuel pump is not turning on. Thought the stock one gave out. Bought a Denso TT one. And it still doesn't turn on.

92 SC300 w 1JZ Auto
Its definently electrical.

12V Mod
Checked the Main EFI(Swapped off a running car).
Checked all fuses.
Tried Bypassing with B+ and Fp at the diagnostic port.(Fuel Pump still doesn't turn on.)

I thought about replacing the FP ecu. But since I bypassed and the FP already it couldnt be the ecu.

Help Please.

 

try getting a 12volt battery and some alligator clips and test it that way. Bypassing all the wiring, switches, and relays. If it works that way then start testing to see if there is any broken cables with a continuity tester.

 

are you just turning on the ignition, or is the car not even starting? I know when I put my Walbro in, I never heard it prime, but it would kick on as soon as I tried starting the car.

 

Yeah i cranked it but it does not start and run.

I put my ear up to the tank and I hear nothing.

 

do the 12v test like TL said, if that doesnt work, you gonna have to start back tracking with a multimeter starting at the splice where the FP ecu is for the 12v mod. If thats getting power, re-splice the connection. If its not getting power to the FP ecu then time to start checking the fuse/relay contacts and connections. Something is either loose, or you have a broken connection, and your OEM pump may have been fine.

 

Forgot to mention its a 92 SC300 w 1jZ

When I got the car. I drove it home and parked it. Swapped the motor in and since then I haven;t got it to start.

 

Can I just draw a 12v current from somewhere in the car? or does it have to be from a battery source?

 

better to draw the 12v from a battery for testing to prevent damaging anything else..was your 1j a Soarer set? or did you have to send the harness of to Dr. Tweak?

also when you spliced for the 12v mod, did you cut and solder, or did you use some sort of connector?

 

you can do it from the car but less room for error if you have a battery with you. A little lead acid battery or a spare car battery will do the job.

 

12v mod was soldered when it came to wires. And the harness is from a Soarer extended and plug and play from Tweak.

 

hmm...i would try straight 12v to the pump just to make sure, then go through the wires from there with a multimeter all the way to the EFI fuse/relay.

 

Yeah that was what I was thinking.
Worst case I could just run a relay.

 

go over all the plugs for the swap make sure its all hooked up, if i was stuck like that id ditch everything and just run a relay and be done with it..

 

Relay will prob be my best bet.

 

Does anyone know how to wire up a relay properly in our SC300 with a TT pump?