Has anyone set the timing on the V8,are there two sets of timing marks,or do they use cylinders that fire opposite?
Figured after a year of ownership,it's probably a good idea,after all the dealer did it last,need to check it.

 

Steps to check the base timing:

1. Connect the E1 and T1 terminals of either DLC1 or DLC2. DLC1 is the diagnostic socket located on top of the engine, and DLC2 is located by the driver's side left knee bolster.

2. Connect the timing light pickup to the No.6 ignition wire.

3. Start engine and aim the light at the graduation marks next to the crank pulley.

4. Factory base timing is 8 - 12 degrees BTDC.

The timing is controlled by the ECU, and as far as I know it is not adjustable. The ECU calculates optimum timing by using signals from the 2 cam position (g1 and g2 signals) sensors located in the left and right distrbutors and the engine speed sensor (ne signal). If you find that your base time is not in the factory range, double check your timing belt for proper tooth position.

 

Cool,thanks!
Is there a corresponding cylinder for checking the base timing on the other distributor?

 

Only need to check No. 6 wire, timing is same for all cylinders.

 

Okay i replaced my water pump and timing belt, and before i changed them everything was working fine, i just had a small leak from my water pump. ( 1uz-fe ) After replacement, i go too start up, i have spark, brand new battery last week, its getting fuel, everything seems too be plugged in, the belt is set too the timing marks that are on the service manual. Though what does this part on ur post mean? i dont think i quite understand.

1. Connect the E1 and T1 terminals of either DLC1 or DLC2. DLC1 is the diagnostic socket located on top of the engine, and DLC2 is located by the driver's side left knee bolster.

2. Connect the timing light pickup to the No.6 ignition wire.

Any help would much be appreciated, i have had this issue for over a month. Thank you
-Drew

Oh and too add to this, everything seems fine except my electrical. Even before i went too change the waterpump and timing belt, i was not having the electrical issue that i am currently having. Examples, trunk will not open unless key is turned over. When trying too start the engine the doors lock and unlock repeatedly.

 

I know this is an old thread but if it's still an issue and for future people interested in SC400 timing:

For #1, you warm the vehicle up to operating temperature and with the vehicle running, you open up DLC1 diag connector from the photo below and alligator clip E1 to TE1:


For #2, find the spark plug wire going to #6 cylinder(looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle, #6 cylinder is three back on the left...goes 2-4-6-8 and 1-3-5-7). Buy a timing light if you don't have one($30 at Harbor Freight) and connect it to the wire: it's a wrap around clamp that uses an inductive pickup to avoid contacting the wire. Point the light at the Timing cover as the engine is running and verify that you're 8-12˚ BTDC at idle(transmission in neutral):


That should be it. Some things the manual suggests:




I'd definitely spend a few bucks and buy the digital shop manual b/c you've got what sounds like some wiring issues related to the theft/door lock ECU based on the wiring diagrams worthy of short circuit/continuity tests. Hope that helps.

 

^ SOLID first post.