Lower Control Arm DIY
I don't think anyone has mentioned this about the bolts. If there's a load on the arm at all in any direction they won't be easy to get out. If you get the arm hole where the bolts aren't under pressure you can usually pop them out with one punch of a 3/8 extension and a hammer. Same thing with them going back in...if there's any major resistance in removing them usually it's because they aren't centered with the hole.
I don't think anyone has mentioned this about the bolts. If there's a load on the arm at all in any direction they won't be easy to get out. If you get the arm hole where the bolts aren't under pressure you can usually pop them out with one punch of a 3/8 extension and a hammer. Same thing with them going back in...if there's any major resistance in removing them usually it's because they aren't centered with the hole.
Honestly, after popping mine in and out a few times (don't ask) I've found the best way to manuver them around would be with a big *** pry bar taped up and a rubber mallet.
As long as the LCA is dead center in the "tabs" (or the mount points) - BOTH points, front and back- you'll be able to move it around relatively easy but the moment you apply movement in an unequal fashion is when it becomes a huge PITA to move them in/out/up/down - remember to pull like you're pulling from the dead center of the LCA looking at it from the rotor's point of view.
As long as the LCA is dead center in the "tabs" (or the mount points) - BOTH points, front and back- you'll be able to move it around relatively easy but the moment you apply movement in an unequal fashion is when it becomes a huge PITA to move them in/out/up/down - remember to pull like you're pulling from the dead center of the LCA looking at it from the rotor's point of view.
So after everything, we still weren't able to get it out. I think we messed up by taking the front LCA bolt out. Gosh dang my overzealousness. Tried to go too quick and was thinking straight. But my car has been down for almost a month.
Put the arm back in both tabs, remove the bolts, then pull equally on both sides of the LCA (or wiggle back and fourth) - never remove one side of the arm, then the other...I tried to fight it one time removing it by doing that, and it didn't work.
any tips for removing the rear bolt on the LCA when its seized up like no bodies buiness, so far i have manage to cut one side of the bolt but the other i can make a scratch with the saw as the sleeve is in the way and what ever it is made of that ish is super tough and is destroying every blade i used...so im open to ideas havent tried a torch yet
I'm guessing everyone's bolts that get seized up are either rusted in up north or the arm is being improperly taken out.
Can you take a picture hovsc400? I need to see what you're doing.
Can you take a picture hovsc400? I need to see what you're doing.
AttemPted it today but only got one lca out. The rear bolt is basically seized in there with the metal tube that is in the center of the pushing. I tortched it and found out so i took off the cross member. My engine is out so its no big deal, but i hope i can get it out tomorrow.
AttemPted it today but only got one lca out. The rear bolt is basically seized in there with the metal tube that is in the center of the pushing. I tortched it and found out so i took off the cross member. My engine is out so its no big deal, but i hope i can get it out tomorrow.
I'd suggest taking it to a machine shop and letting them cut it out.
Thats exactly what i did. If i cant get it out today il have a machine shop take care of it.


