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Lower Control Arm DIY

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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 10:44 PM
  #91  
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Club it like a baby seal.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 02:17 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Bflatsharp
Club it like a baby seal.
I clubbed it like it was a mama seal lol!
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 04:50 PM
  #93  
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after fighting with mine for a couple days heres what it took to get that stupid bolt out a sawzall, torch, and a couple metal cutting blades. I strongly recommend just cutting the bolt out and you cannot cut through the sleeve so you half to get in that gap between the sleeve and where the bolt enters through the subframe with a good blade it cuts like butter. If you got a bolt that is well seized up beating the **** out of it with a hammer will get you no where i spent a couple days doing it and all i got was the bolt to flatten out but it never budge.

so just cut it and slap a new one in there and be done with it.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #94  
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Did you have to get a new sleeve also? I messed up the bolt but the sleeve is perfectly fine.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:00 AM
  #95  
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i have to tackle mine today.
my rear bushing is completely busted so last time i tried to get it out, i couldn't get the bolt off.
i already got replacement LCA and just finished replacing it with new poly bushing yesterday.

that rear bushing sleeve has serrated ends so it bites into the frame once the arm is crooked and won't move, which i think is the problem.

where did you guys get the replacement bolt? lexus part number? or will i be able to find one at hardware store?
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:03 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by loka
i have to tackle mine today.
my rear bushing is completely busted so last time i tried to get it out, i couldn't get the bolt off.
i already got replacement LCA and just finished replacing it with new poly bushing yesterday.

that rear bushing sleeve has serrated ends so it bites into the frame once the arm is crooked and won't move, which i think is the problem.

where did you guys get the replacement bolt? lexus part number? or will i be able to find one at hardware store?
The end of the sleeve does bite into the frame, but as long as you torque to spec it shouldn't ever freeze up like you guys run into (unless you're in the North and have salt issues I suppose).

The sleeve acts more as a separator bar to keep the arms from flexing and to allow the bushing to move forward to back inside of it (not by much, but if you have someone crank the wheel while looking, you'll see what I mean) which is why polyurethane makes such a huge difference, that's a huge amount of slop!
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:49 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by soarer13oy
Take the cross member out and get a big hammer. Then hammer the hell out of it. Took me a few hits today to get the bolt out. GL!
exactly how big of a hammer did you use? my 3lb hammer was no match for my seized bolt with overhead swinging.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 10:23 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by TechGreek
The end of the sleeve does bite into the frame, but as long as you torque to spec it shouldn't ever freeze up like you guys run into (unless you're in the North and have salt issues I suppose).

The sleeve acts more as a separator bar to keep the arms from flexing and to allow the bushing to move forward to back inside of it (not by much, but if you have someone crank the wheel while looking, you'll see what I mean) which is why polyurethane makes such a huge difference, that's a huge amount of slop!
i'm in chicago area with mad salt on the road.
i hope i can get it out without cutting **** up.
i already busted the hex hed of the studded short linkage.
i can cut the nut off on that reletively easy but i don't know how you guys cut off the bolt to get the rear part out.

so anyone on the bolt info?

thanks.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 12:49 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by greens14
exactly how big of a hammer did you use? my 3lb hammer was no match for my seized bolt with overhead swinging.
Thats about the same size i used. I torched the living hell of it the night before. I dont know if that made a difference but thats what i did to get mines out.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #100  
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torching helps alot to get that beast out i ordered my bolt from toyolex $15 and the stealership wanted $35 bucks for one bolt...part number for the camber bolt is 48190-4040 hope that helps
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 10:20 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by hovsc400
torching helps alot to get that beast out i ordered my bolt from toyolex $15 and the stealership wanted $35 bucks for one bolt...part number for the camber bolt is 48190-4040 hope that helps
ya, i tried for a while trying to get that damn bolt off, but i couldn't get it out for the life of me.
since ball joint boot is busted, i think i might cut off the control arm off and save the bolt.

thanks for the bolt part number.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:36 AM
  #102  
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just got the camber bolt, the lexus part number was actually 48190-24020, i got it from the dealer for $25.
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 02:44 PM
  #103  
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^^^I had to buy a new Camber bolt as well, but mine came out to $18.29 for the new bolt.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #104  
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finally got one side done.
i had to cut the bolt and saw that rear bushing sleeve was completely fused with the bolt from the rust.
it wouldn't have happened if the rear sleeve was made of aluminum like on the front.
i suppose if you heat up that sucker long enough you might get it off, but fused will take a while to get the entire sleeve heated while covered with rubber bushing.
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 02:23 AM
  #105  
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I finished mines yesterday. I quick advice to anyone who will be replacing their bushings. After removing the sleeve and as much burnt rubber as you can, get a 2" wire brush for a drill or dremmel and clean the holes of the control arms. This made installing a piece of cake. I was able to basically push the bushings in with my hands/weight. You should also clean the sleeves and bolts for easier installation.
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